Hello motor friends, discovered today when cleaning the tires, should actually be pulled tomorrow on new rims. It is about a Dunlop SP10 size 195/50R15 82T. The tires should also be driven a little more sporty, so I tend to a new purchase – which I as a student can not actually afford. What do you mean? Greeting andy
Author: 00c12f
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Winter ices Rest destruction
Moinsen, actually wanted to switch to SR. Winter tires are probably not enough for the next winter. Would the WR like to wear up in summer. Do you do it like that or do you speak against it? Rides are mainly city-country, rarely highway, max. 140 kmh. Thank you and dear greetings
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Profile differences between Goodyear Ultra Grip 7+ and 8 ?
Yesterday at my father’s polo on summer tires changed and when I put the Ultra Grip 7+ I suddenly see that we unfortunately got a screw with a tyre. Spackscrew pulled and air goes out of the tire. Tires was only driven about 2000km.. Regardless of the consideration whether you can vulcanize this ( screw is in the middle of the profile and not at the side flaw, so should theoretically go), I think about a new tire for safety reasons Since there is no longer the Ultra Grip 7+, only the new Ultra Grip 8. Are there optical profile differences between both tires? When I look at the images in the net I don’t see much …
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Tips for Leasing Completion – Negotiating? Recognizing Fair Offer? Pay attention to what?
Dear everyone! I am a complete new entrant in leasing and would be happy about tips from you, which I have to pay attention to when concluding the contract, so that I don’t get pulled over the table somehow, if this is a possibility at all. I come from Austria and have a specific car in mind. Details: SEAT Ibiza “Austria Edition”, 80hp, 6.800km, EZ 10/2023, petrol, manual transmission, 1 previous owner He is listed with 16.490€. on the page on which I found the car (the world car), you can have the leasing rate calculated. For a deposit of 500€, 60 months duration and 10,000km per year, according to this computer, the rate would be 109€ per month. What do you think of this rate in principle? I don’t want to pay more than that, because it was advertised on an official page and there also the rate was calculated. Would you still still negotiate there? In addition, there seems to be a Porsche Bank bonus of €2000 and an offer that you only pay the amount of the lowest level of insurance – I would insist on that of course. You can also pay just under €38 per month, then pay nothing at the service and thus have no “bad surprises”. Does that also pay off? Is that safe? Do you have any other tips? Thank you very much! By the way, here is the link to the offer:https://www.dasweltauto.at/veh icle/26020708
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Curve width – centrifugal force vs. Downforce
Hello together, I have a burning topic on my heart and maybe someone here knows about it: – I know that the centrifugal force / centrifugal force is proportional to the speed in the square, i.e. double speed = four times centrifugal force. – I have read that it is possible to generate an equally strongly growing pressure / downforce by means of spoilers etc. My question is simple, but perhaps not necessarily to answer with common sense:Is it is possible that a vehicle does not make a curve with e.g. 130 km/h, but with the same setup maybe with 200 km/h? p.s.: clear with higher speed the centrifugal force is much greater, but the downforce also, and the higher tyre temperature makes the difference with respect to the Hafabrätung, even if it sounds illogical, but is it possible!? Does anyone know exactly? Greeting
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Turbo Anti Lag System (ALS)
Hello, can someone explain to me here how the ALS system used in rallies or dragster races works? So so much is clear to me (if it’s true, I’m improving) The turbine of the turbo takes some time until it comes to speed, therefore the turbo hole (with the exception of VTG). So you have to increase the speed of the ejecting exhaust gases. How do you do it, or does it work differently? Thanks in advance, AGE
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Problems with on-board voltage
My generator seems to have problems. I bought a new battery the other day, the old one was definitely due. So far everything was quite normal. After starting onboard voltage to 13,9-14V. Then it goes down after a time to 13,4V and then settles in between 13,3-13,7V. I have a voltage indicator where the cigarette lighter is normal. But the last days where it gets dark now, I naturally have dipped light in the evening. Then I have a voltage indicator where the cigarette lighter is normal. The on-board voltage goes down after a while to approx. 12,9-13,1V. Virhin when I drove home I was surprised when the on-board voltage was only at “12,3V” (light on and radiator fans were running straight). Just before home switched down to only floor light and the voltage slowly went back to scarce 13V. Battery I still charge at all times, when I am at my garage, today also. Charging voltage is 14,5 Volt and is a very good charger with various So the battery is always full when I drive home. I almost forgot, I re-made the controller about 2 years ago, as well as the control system on the generator. A lot of text became, but I didn’t want to keep all the information from you. What to do, try new controller again, or what to do, that the onboard voltage goes under load into the knees. E.g. even if I run blower to higher level. So far it was from it always at least around the 13V, today for a short time only 12,3V (cooler fans ran but also in the moment, as well as dipped light) The most useful thing is, if I had my multimeter and oscilloscope on tomorrow, current pliers (up to 200A) I would also have to measure. Edit: No bug, which the new battery therefore also passes over the Jordan, but I charge also with charger for precautionary reasons I would not have a bug to read the whole text
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Structure of the crankcase ventilation system or hose / source of fault?
Hello! I asked myself whether the crankcase ventilation system always consists of normal hose connections for petrol engines. Or is there also the case where valves can be installed there, for example, on the connectors? What sources of fault are there in addition to leaks in such a system? Specifically, I asked myself this with a Citroen C3 from 2003 with 1.4 l machine, since there is the following problem: In the crankcase ventilation hose to the air filter is located si a lot of yellowish smear, which has reduced the hose diameter. Towards air filter, in the air filter itself and direction throttle valve there is also an oily, yellowish substance. It is probably an emulsion of oil and condensation water. Then I wondered if the hose system could be defective. I once took off all 3 connection clips and blown in each connection (yes, is not a delicious matter). Interestingly, for one piece only air in one direction, but hardly in the other. The reason can actually only be a built-in valve?! Could it be that due to a defective valve in the crankcase ventilation system the blow-by-gases are not removed correctly and all, including oil nebulae, in which a hose lands, where they mix with condensate due to the low outside temperatures? Finally a piece of hose was replaced. Could it be that this, because it is a little different nods, which caused problems? Or do you rather tap on e.g. piston rings or valve shaft seals? To the info: – no smear on the oil cover – no visible oil dilution – no oil in the cooling water – No rising bubbles in the cooling water with open balance tank and running engine in idle mode (we had to check it at increased speed) – No noticeable smoke from the exhaust I’m curious about your answers.
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CADILLAC ATS 2.0 T Premium vs. Jaguar XF
Hello together Actually, I decided the other day for a Jaguar XF 3.0 Twinturbo Diesel with 275 hp (2012). I also love something with a CADILLAC ATS 2.0 T Premium Saloon! It also has 275 hp, consumes a bit more and is equipped with Bose system and DAB+ from the factory. I also like the Cadillac visually because it is simply different. Either you love the car or you find it ugly because of the edges. I like it! How do people react to your cars? How do you like it? is the above mentioned Cadillac reliable? A 4 cylinder won’t be as durable as a 6 cylinder? How expensive are the service costs or spare parts? Known problems? Thanks Lg
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F250 Tax Notice
Hello together, I have the following problem. I bought an F250 truck. 7.3 liter IDI diesel with truck registration. The vehicle ran until my re-registration since 1995 as a truck. With me the office decided (automatically due to the 5 registered seats) on car. The result of it: 2744€ taxes annually. In short for whoever priceless! I have known, the e.g. RAM drive with a division of 50% loading area and 50% cabin, with also 6 seats. With real crewcab, i.e. 4 doors n and complete seats. All with lkw registration. 210€ annually. Now to my car: it is a one-and-a-half cabiner with 3 emergency seats. In addition, the ratio of loading area – cabin. LF: 2,7m; cabin 1,75m. The entire vehicle is over 6m long. On the communication was referred to paragraph 18(12) of the Kraftfharzeugsteuergesetz. Accordingly, my car should probably be a car after its determination, therefore the taxation. Objection was filed. If someone has had experience with such a thing and someone knows about it. How long does the processing of such a thing take? Does the customs make it possible to talk to them? On the phone I would be told that a demonstration at the customs office would be possible to show the official the characteristics of the truck. Who has driven such a thing and knows how the dimensions of the (load) surfaces know that this is all, but not a car. Greetings