Author: 00c12f

Hello, So my Kymco has already broken the 2nd piston of course I was so stupid and didn’t change the cylinder So now I know of course not what it is that the pistons are broken Is there any way to check if the crankshaft is okay? Without going into a workshop and without special tools? The crankshaft is here removed and I assumed that the hood is because the left and right game has net a lot but but what was on the Internet that was normal game but net the KW itself but the part where the piston comes to it Up and down there is nothing Could that be due to the Kw anyway? Or can I assume that the cylinder is to blame? I want to change the cylinder now for 70€ and then find it was due to the crankshaft then I can buy the cylinder + a new crankshaft that I can really not afford Ach and a mistake at the time build I made net And the scooter also drives net too thin And the new piston was already broken after about 10km On the piston are so deep scratches / notches While those are only front and back at the side hardly With front I mean direction outlet And my oil pump is still running

Hello friends, who knows how to work, is not necessarily looking for a longer detour to do it. My PX 200 had a clamp and the result is to take off the cylinder and see what’s going on. I got several hints to lower the engine, which I didn’t like at all. So cover off, cylinder bolts rough, cylinder down and in front of me lay the piston. Locking ring removed and since the piston bolt was stuck, a little thought, in the miracle box crammed and finally found a brass spreader dowel that fit just into the piston socket. This one with a screw slightly tightened until I got on resistance, inserted some WD-40 and warmed the piston with the hair dryer. The pliers taken and then pulled the bolt at the screw like out of the butter, without wasting a thought of knocking or bending. Did nobody ever come up with this idea before me, if you can make life so easy after all? No one has come yet? Greetings Foonmimg

Evening, I’m thinking about getting a 50’s scooter, so my big trekker doesn’t have to suffer for the short distances and city rides. In the selection would be: – Aprilia SR50 – Gilera Runner – Yamaha Aerox – Kymco Agility/Super8/Super9… – Peugeot Speedfight – Piaggio NRG … Only I have to find out when searching around that for used scooters are quite outrageous prices, despite VHB. There are for example for 7-8year old Aprilia SR50 with beyond 10tkm 1000Euro(New 1899Euro) demanded. Just like for 3-4 years that already have about 20tkm on the speedometer. Am I looking perhaps wrong or are the prices rather normal? No used scooter would be worth it any more.

Hello, I’m driving a Baotian scooter 4 times, which I only use to go fishing.Had him a few days ago in the workshop to make a new V-belt and vario weights on it.One day later the V-belts tore.I pulled a new trüber – but the scooter doesn’t come from the spot and just stutters.The rear wheel turns very fast.That’s why it would now also hang on the clutch-trying to get the screw on by all means-just noch Once again I don’t drive to the workshop – these are huge costs – so I try it myself.Until now, however, I had found out that the Variomatic disc was loose after the repair. anyway, I have no doubt that the workshop screwed up.Do you have any advice?

Hey Got an Italjet Formula 50 AC bj97 I for with the scooter on a Holprigen mountain path until he went out once in a while… Of course I tried to get him again and again… When I pushed him home, and looked again at that the spark plug was loose and light grey… I screwed it again pure tried to start up and NOTHING! I bought her a new ZK and thought she jumped anyway… But still NOTHING! What could that be petrol + ignition spark are d a… Please urgently need your help…

Hello together, have the following problem. After my battery was overcooked, the voltage regulator was replaced which could have been the reason for this error.Now I changed the chipping regulator and all the bulbs including indicator lighting burned through. Since I measured half-gas at the headlight approx.25 V the suspicion was close that I had bought the wrong or defective clamping transducer. So voltage converter changed (obviously to And now the incredible – since the installation I can no longer measure DC voltage on the headlight. But I now have an AC voltage of approx.25 V at half-gas. I can be mistaken but I am sure that this has to be a DC voltage. I own a CPI Hussar Bj 2001 Even though this already says everything that it is a CPI I would be very happy if you could help me !!