Hello! Got a huge problem: I picked up my 2 polo from the tuner (no field forest and meadows screwdriver Top Bude in the polo mountain sport) on Monday. Originally 75hp GK engine. The following modifications were made:45 double carburetor,new camshaft,new towing levers and springs.new ECU,controller with MK Gr.N system. On the way home I noticed a huge oil loss only assumed the petrol pump oilt so installed new petrol pump. Oil loss was still there. then with the tuner phone conversation held and then changed the sieve from the crankshaft ventilation on the engine block. no success. The oil expresses from the pipe from the track rod. If I leave the oil filler cover open and leave about 2-3 minutes in idle mode everything is OK after that the camshaft before oil is no longer visible, lid on top 1Minute running it starts from the front and when open screwing it hisses from the overpressure. maybe someone knows a solution???
Author: 00c12f
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Stronger brake system – nonsense!?
Hello everyone! I thought a lot about installing a stronger braking system in my vehicle (manufacturer and model I would like to let go of) for the first time. My car is tuned and, according to the test bench, has to the 250 hp and weighs about 1500kg. Rims and tyres is 225/40 18. A tighter suspension (Koni, KAW) was installed and lowered about 50mm. Vmax. according to Tacho around 260…. So, I know myself quite well in the technical area of a car… but still have spez I’m looking for examples and technical information on the Internet (since tuning specialist books don’t really cover what I’m trying to get) and the yield was actually quite productive, but unfortunately I didn’t get any further. That’s why I’m going to turn to you and hope for appropriate competence! Now on the actual topic: Does a larger brake system (larger brake discs + 4 or 6 piston brake calipers) really work on the braking path? And why? If you could only use other brake pads with a higher friction value to shorten the braking distance? Explanation desirable. What does this look like in connection: Brake vs. Tyres Is it more useful to use other tyres instead of other (better) brakes – should mean: could other tyres be more effective than a modified braking system?? On some sides, this was claimed. Your car does not brake through the brakes, but only through the tires! There is then also, a larger brake system. After completion is for me, that the braking effect must be transferred to the tires and the tires have to implement this by appropriate Hafrektrieb. But, what is important now essentially? Greeting to all Bullit
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Big problem with VVD and VHV
Hello, I have a problem with both insurance companies and I’m now looking for advice. It’s best to pick up a little bit and try to describe what the problem looks like and how it got there. In May 2009 I bought a new golf. At that time I was insured with my old A4 with my father at the VHV. Dh. Halter was me, UN was my father. Since the A4 was a V6 and very expensive in the insurance, it was classified as 1st car (SF25 of my father), my father’s car (A4 Kombi) was classified as a 2nd car (my SF4). When buying the Gulf, I told my dealer that I wanted to take over the SF4 into the VVD (VVD, because financing the Gulf). He said it was all no problem, that I should only bring the insurance documents to the copy and my father had to sign a cession declaration. Said done, since then there was no problem. But yesterday my father received a letter from the VHV that his car was classified on SF3. He is of course from all As it turned out, VVD wrote this (!!!) year a letter, after my father’s 1st car was at the VVD and now the SFs are to be transferred. In short, the VHV passed the SF25 to the VVD. The VVD did not inform me about the process, but we now find out this in the back. Very curious is the whole thing, because my father is not at the VVD. Which is also very funny, is the fact that the VVD a SF25 au It must be obvious to them that I am not allowed to have an SF25 with 26J!!! At the latest a letter should have landed with me, right? I will call the VVD tonight and ask. My big concern is that my father’s SF25 disappeared in Nirvana. Is the concern justified? My father also has legal protection (unfortunately I haven’t yet), he definitely has family and labour law. I don’t know if traffic law, it helps us. was it our fault that we did not inform the VHV ourselves to exchange 1st and 2t cars? In the future I will probably not be allowed to leave this to a dealer. It is not so much about the costs here, it is very important that my father gets the SF25 again.
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Insurance problem
Hello, maybe someone can help me further. We had a marten damage on the antenna of our Astra, the FOH repaired the damage, he had to change the antenna rod + antenna foot + cable up to the radio (dissolve sky incl.).In the end came out an invoice of 917 €. So now 150 € SB paid, 3 weeks later expert of insurance in front of the door.He looked at the expanded part and said there is only the antenna rod paid. In addition now two questions : Does anyone know if the Oilstar Assistance connection guarantee takes over an antenna damage? – What do you advise me to check if the FOh has not expanded too much? Because I’m pretty much at the end with the Astra: 70000 Km _ AGR valve , starter , alternator , complete brake system, headlights started, I already had all this changed. And with our Insignia it goes fast so , or even worse. Madness !
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Financing Vehicle with holding time
Hello it is a new vehicle (new Mazda 6) that should normally be with one-day approval. The dealer said this is not possible, he gets problems. Now it should become a driving point, that has a holding time of 6 months…… so the vehicle remains to be leased to the dealer for half a year, and I buy it… sales contract goes also on me … insurance also I should pay ( I drive after all) after half a year is then changed to me … now I finance the car (not about the dealer) and am not quite sure with the duration of the stop.. could be that it is a crooked liability .. just think the worst thing about it;-) someone has experience with vehicle purchase with stopover time (registration to the dealer for a certain time) The financing is pending, and I also have to decide whether to take the vehicle wool or not (the dealer has offered at least that if I do not agree with the change). I was also able to get back from the purchase contract) So experiences of people who have acquired a new driving show, with holding time 🙂 Thanks PS. Calm me, so that I can make the purchase 😉 wait for my new one after all already 3 months.
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Focus ST Finance
Hello together, I am currently thinking about changing my Focus mk4 for a ST X automatic, as I have been following this dream for a long time and unfortunately Ford 2025 is setting up the production of this car. All this as a new car, this would cost me 40,49€ with overpass. As a down payment I would sell my car private for about 17,000€ and put 10,000€ on it, 13,49€ remain to finance. I would pay this to 48 months to 200€ each (9600€). 90€ and about 500€ interest (currently there is a 0.99% action on interest) Now to me, I earn 1900 net, minus all fixed costs like rent, livelihood etc remain currently about 600€, sometimes more times less. I will drive in the year about 25.000km, of which 45km simply to the job. Yes I am aware that the ST will consume a little more than my current, which I drive with about 6l/100km. Due to the higher consumption and the insurance would be about 150€ more to the fixed food Is this a dream that can be fulfilled or should I rather let it be and continue my journey? LG
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Pay raise or company car?
Hello, I’m just about to make a decision on a salary increase or service car. I hope you can help me with this. Current salary 4335€ gross, married (SK 4), without children. Option 1: salary increase to 4875€ gross – i.e. from approx. 2680€ to approx. 3020€ – net increase + fuel card 50€. Option 2: service car (no matter the brand, total not yet decided exactly but up to 70k€ rather 60k€) All costs of the service car (insurance, maintenance, wear) are borne by the AG. I can easily shop in the company. Controlling 0.5% regulation. My work path is just back and forth: 70 km (5 days of the week). There are no official trips. Privately I drive about 20-25 000 km a year. Currently I drive a Polo 2004 1.4 petrol as a second car. It drives and runs well. Actually costs me only fuel per month (approx. 150 €). Maintenance costs (oil and other costs I do myself – but also costs not even over 100 €) For longer distances I use BMW 5e r 2015 520d costs me: 250€ financed + insurance 83 € (plan was to change next year). A variant with company car would not be bad. I would then sell both cars. Hopefully you can help me and give good suggestions ?
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Motor vehicle replacement sum higher than the sum paid by the trader
Hello community, I am currently facing a question that I still couldn’t resolve in my mind. I currently have a Peugeot 208 on sale at Mobile.de. Today a serious dealer from another federal state who is looking for a car on behalf of a customer. The dealer is himself a large Peugeot dealer. He wants to propose several cars to the customer and asked for my data and asked for my final price. If the customer chooses my car He would pick up the car. The car is financed and in a few months the final rate would be due. This is higher than the sum that would be paid by the dealer. However, the dealer would like to have the car letter at pick-up. However, I can’t advance in the big full amount. How do I best deal with the situation. Has anyone experienced an idea or specifically the same? Thank you very much!
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How to “bump up” car, for example for oil changes
Hello together! What do you use to “bump up” a car evenly a few centimeters, for example, to make an oil change? Unfortunately, neither pit nor stage are available. So far I help myself with a load of bricks – that works, but is relatively time-consuming (are stored in the garage, but you still need a few to drive up). Is sufficient from the result (height should be estimated 8 cm). Advantages: high safety Disadvantages: hoh he effort, relatively sharp corners are not good for tires (I reduce with boards -> even more effort), a few centimetres more height would sometimes not be bad What are there for alternatives? -> ramps – are practical, but fail for the purpose because car stands diagonally -> buy proper jacks and take up classics with underlays – four times put on and bucks should hardly be faster than towing the stones. I’m sure there are better possibilities – maybe I also have a mistake in thinking about the jack history, Johannes
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HAZET wheel hub loop 4960V-160 spare grinder
with our Hazet wheel side grinder is slowly worn out the grinding body. This can be exchanged and therefore not the whole part for about 80 Euro new. The problem is that I find nowhere new grinding body. Since the last grinding body has lasted 8 years, I would not like to buy a 3 set directly now. Does someone have a tip where to get the grinding wheel individually?