MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • Crushing the car– is that triggering the airbag?

    Hello, the inner child in me always wanted to smash an old car with a hammer. Now I would have the opportunity, because an acquaintance has an old car close to the scrap value and would make it available to me. The question is: Could the airbags be triggered when knocking around on the body? I am clear that if the battery + waiting time is disconnected, the trigger electronics will no longer respond, because the necessary voltage for the trigger signal is missing. I don’t want the airbag to open suddenly without warning. Can you make it safe, pounding around with an airbag on the car with an airbag, but without a battery? Or is it only safe if the airbags have been removed / ignited? Best regards Xeneon1

  • Shock absorber mix at 30’s h&r springs ring srum

    Good evening. I’m the new one here and I have a direct question I sold my Opel signum the penultimate weekend privately. Now the new owner writes to me that this is not correct with the chassis and therefore I am supposed to replenish myself or to participate in the funnel of the “error”. The legal situation aside. I’m more interested…is it permissible to mix front serial shock absorbers with rear FK shock absorbers. As springs are 30s H&R ru ndum. He has an expert report on them, but says that his workshop tells him that this is not possible, it would be forbidden. Is that so or is it not so? Rejoice me (hopefully) to your answers 😛

  • Coking: solution by Ncoat.one ?

    Hello everyone, various threads across the manufacturers deal with the topic of coking and their (often expensive) consequences for direct injections such as (T)FSI gasoline engines. A workshop employee recently pointed out to me Nclean and Ncoat/Ncoat.one, the German company Norrol, who won an industrial award, an inner oil additive, which according to his own statement is “the problem solver No.1 for coking and impurities in engines (burning room, turbo, oil cycle). The product is not a classic oil additive, the products work within the oil cycle. Nanotech, among other things, from modified silicon oxide (SiO2), aluminium oxide (AI2O3) and plasma treated graphite (C) would ‘enrich’ the surfaces. Is there any experience, does anyone know that or does anyone use it? Info links:http://www.ncoat.one/http://norrol.eu/http://www.2000km.net/2016/08/24/oldtimer-fahrer-better-with-ncoat-one/

  • Brake discs and pads aftermarket

    Moinsen I searched the forum and turned the internet upside down. The topic is the following: There are felt 50 brake manufacturers or brands under which they are distributed. Everywhere in this forum immerse reviews on ala” I swear on ATE” “there is only Brembo” “NK has left behind” “Zimmermann are horny” and of course there are also the completely opposite opinions. In addition, the fear of plagiarism from “the bay” All this is extr I did not find any independent comparison tests. Maybe any of you? Since the prices of brake discs as well as pads vary extremely and tests are missing, it is quite difficult for us end users to choose the best product at the best price performance ratio. The only thing that actually helps is the ECE regulation “R90″ valid for brakes since 1 November 2016 have had to adapt brake discs and drums to new vehicle types. In order to achieve ECE-R90 approval, high demands are placed on component characteristics and on manufacturers. In this way, drivers should have the certainty to obtain products in original equipment quality in the free spare parts market. ” How can I find out the best product?

  • Kawasaki he5 no longer starts “right”

    Hello, I bought a Kawasaki ER-500A a short time ago. BJ97 – ~50,000km. today I drove about 20km without any problems. I left my bike about 1/2h. After that I wanted to start it again, but unfortunately you could only hear a funny “KLACK-KLACK” while pressing on the starter. You can only put the “first” and the “empty run” in, all the other gears are blocked. They are hard to set up while it is being pushed. A nice man helped me with the attack. After the second attempt with the 3rd course she started again. The engine turned up constantly in the stand, but I could drive up to home. At home I put it off, waited for a moment and started it again with the E-starter. As if never had been anything, she started immediately again. About 1h later I went back to my motorcycle. Suddenly I saw a cymbal-sized gasoline leak on the ground and it continued to drip off the carburetor. I wanted to run it right away. and then again the same as before: It only did KLACK KLACK!! A friend of mine then helped me to run. However, without success. Each gear blocks the rear wheel. I hope you can help me. Thank you )

  • Blower flaws

    Hello, have a 9-3 2.0 T Built. 12.98. I am actually quite satisfied; but have a phenomenon since the latest, which I can not estimate. My ventilation is sometimes very fast and then fall back very quickly into the preset range. Sounds almost like a “puffing”. Pollen filter is changed, blower motor is free and also in the installation area no moisture. I then tried the EPC and asked a few screwdrivers; yield was rather poor. is actually only the assumption that the blower resistance/control unit (5045158) has one away: A) can this be ?? B) if yes, where is the installation location and how to get there best ?? (if possible, detailed description.I found in the HAYNES nix usable) Thanks for your help WOLF

  • Cracking, cracking front axle when springing

    Hello, with my 9-3 LPT cracks and cracks it when springing in and out from the front axle area. It gets worse and worse, but only occurs at low outside temperatures (which is why maybe worse?) and disappears after about 15 minutes driving time. Is also independent of steering impact or does not occur by steering. My “not Saab” screwdriver could find nothing, springs heal, all joints tiptop and firm, not what you see from the outside or provocative with the crowbar someone an idea what that could be and above all whether it’s dangerous? Torsten

  • A question for the specialists

    Hello, with me everything is going really super cares me very lovingly for my Saab, had had a lot changed. Last month I thought that it was time to change spark plugs and the petrol filter. ( spark plugs were told to me in summer already that it would not be bad to change the in 10 000 km or so, fuel filter..no idea if the changed and when at 187 000 km it would not be wrong I thought) Order everything also other small things (Ant i nne etc. ) at Elkparts, NGK Platinum and because filter, everything comes quickly to everything super… for the first time. Then let change in the workshop ok. Then the car did not run at all ok, no power constant jerking, irregular work from the engine (only with warm engine) high consumption. So clear… the spark plugs were corrupt, or the filter…before everything was tip top. Had already checked cables and so back to the workshop there…running around the stuttering explained spark plugs changed (i ch never experienced the defective sparks arrive) unfortunately no NGK anymore but Saab..ja autsch expensive and are actually NGK, no matter. Then car taken super no stuttering or jerking drives when speeding up, power is also there. Only one thing is the annoying. It’s again with the warm engine when I stand at the traffic light, sometimes to feel an unconstant work from the engine. That there was not before. Should I go to the workshop and ask if the filter is properly mounted? Or please gi bt me a advice. As I said it’s not always but sometimes you notice it and you hear it as if the computer tries to normalize it (I’m really not sure biite not laughing) So wait for your tips, and sorry wanted to explain everything with 3 sentences but with my speech keys and will to convey it to you it wasn’t easy, greetings

  • Bad look for my B4 (except Kamei)

    Huhu, I’m looking for a bad look (or sleep eyes, as my mother calls it *smooth*) for my B4.. I’ve only seen the Kamei bad look so far .. And I don’t like it at all.. It’s not really in the eye at all.. only when you approach the one-digit meter range.. Are there any other variants besides “extend” the bonnet? Do you have photos of a bad look on a B4? preferably in Gomera pearl effect.. Greetz, Martin

  • Lifetime S2?

    Hello, I’m thinking that I’m getting an S2… BJ so 92, 93… mileage about 150 to 200 Have two people looking at the car when buying, who know each other well. If I still buy an S2 this year (previously at the end of the year) which is BJ 92, then he is 14 years old. My question: If you do all the necessary things (oil change, wear parts, etc..), you watch the car with cold driving etc., how long will the car drive without major problems The engine should not be broken (if you watch it), only where I am immo worried, would be the base. How about the body, it is fully galvanized, but welding noses loose or anything else, what can I expect? So things like gear change etc. can be done yourself. Is it advisable to buy a 14-year-old Audi, if you want to drive the car for 10 years?