Moin, it’s been quiet for a long time. Today he doesn’t want any more … doesn’t turn any more gear… error message s.o. question, since in the worst case I have to reckon that the ism is fucked up, at least I’ve been so angry so far, does this have to be married to the car or is it going to plug and play ? Greeting
Author: 00c12f
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TDCI runs extremely unevenly idle (cold + low load)
Hello, with my Mondi (12/03) TDCI the diesel runs extremely “unround” in idle. The whole car wobbles and you have the impression that the engine stops right away. However, this only occurs when the car is standing and especially clearly when the engine is still cold. If I give the right gas on the highway, then the engine runs back in idle normal for a few days and after a few days of city driving, where the engine does not get really warm, the unround idle starts again from the front . I’ve already been to the workshop. However, then the demonstration effect occurred. Engine ran round… Has anyone had similar experience that the TDCI is running extremely restless in the cold state ? (In addition, there is a slight whistle, probably at the air supply for the turbocharger ??? The part is in the middle, above, very close to the windshield. A black hose is plugged on there among other things. I assume however that this is also only a follow-up phenomenon…) e even. If the engine is warm, it runs quite round and normal. In cold condition with longer, “weak” load then the whole car shakes… For every information I am grateful !!! Thomas P.S.: I read something about defective injection nozzles. It may also be related to this. Questionably only why the engine runs round when it is warm…
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Does anyone have any experience with sports brake discs?
Hello, I’m considering the purchase and thus the installation of ATE Power Disc sports brake discs, although I own “only” a Ford Mondeo Tournament Ambiente 2.0 TDDI with 66KW/90PS, but supposedly the sports brake discs should offer further advantages over the original ford brake discs, as is known from Motorcraft. The advantages should be less wear, better response, less fading, better braking behavior in wet weather; now my question…. “Is that so?” t other brake discs than the original Ford brake discs or made with sports brake discs!? Just for information, the ATE Power Disc sports brake discs cost per set (front) 125,90 Euro, the original Ford brake discs for the Ford Mondeo MkIII should cost me 108,- Euro per set (front); my brake discs have to be new after now about 77,000km, including brake pads; certainly a concession to the vehicle weight, not the same despite a little too early as I think, the driving retention For information, the original Ford brake pads should cost approx. 45,- Euro, the ATE brake pads for Ford Mondeo MkIII should cost 56,- Euro, installation costs in original Ford – specialist workshop approx. 68,- Euro, at the free workshop “PointS” 55,- Euro, the comparison: Ford specialist workshop with original ford parts including installation makes 221,- Euro, offer of 210,- Euro available! At “PointS” with ATE brake pads and ATE PowerDiscSport brake discs including installation make t 236,90 Euro as fixed price! Don’t pay the 26,90 Euro extra price!??? What do you mean? Greeting Poldi76
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9000CSE disks fogged at low temperature despite ACC
Hello to all, The ACC with my 9000CSE 2.0T has the following problem: Only about 8-9 weeks ago the workshop had broken a gasket and thus the air fluid leaked out, so that there was no cooling function. After the error in the workshop was removed and the climate cooled well again, the following error occurred (could not notice it before, of course, because it was still relatively warm): At low temperatures (from approx. +4°C the windows suddenly fog completely. ler appeared several times a few weeks ago, when it was cooler in the morning and again today. After switching on the defroster function it only got worse and then after 2-3 minutes better. The fog really goes ratzfatz within a few seconds, than more than an unsightly thing. I am grateful for every tip, especially if he shows a simple solution 🙂
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Experience report: G500 BJ 2002 – Homokinetic shaft – no power cap to the distribution gearbox
Hello, I wanted to share here a short experience report, maybe it will help someone in the future who is struggling with similar problems. With my G500 (built in 2002) with 170,000 km suddenly a blow came when starting up and the engine turned up. There was no more closeness and the G drove no more forward. In addition, a rattle from the direction of the gearbox was heard. I thought at first, the distribution gearbox could be the culprit. The reason: The output shaft from the Getri ebe rotated, even if the vehicle had stood. On closer inspection, I found that the input shaft of the distribution gearbox did not rotate. By this realization, I could further narrow down the problem: It had to be the ball joint or the gearing of the homokinetic shaft. So I had the G towed away and the homokinetic shaft removed myself. Disassembly was relatively easy – you get well, without having to remove any attachments The shaft can be dipped in axis direction, which makes it relatively easy to remove. However, a housing cover was stuck in the flange of the distribution gearbox. This could not be removed completely without any damage, but with a little effort I could lever it out. Interestingly, I found water droplets in the fat. At the housing cover and at some places of the hub was rust, and the notch toothing was completely grunked away (see attached photos). That was the reason. for the problem. Apparently the ball joint in conjunction with the humidity has worn the gearing heavily. I have already ordered a new shaft, which will be installed tomorrow. Overall, the whole damage remains below 1000 euros – so really cheap compared to the exchange gearbox I irritated that the homokinetic shaft in such a way fails. Above all, without major pre-announcements. Has any of you already experienced such a thing? I don’t expect any major surprises when installing it. the new wave, but will still report whether everything works without problems. If someone has had similar experiences, I am happy about experiences.
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Equipment code ME2 Output Increase
Hello all, I bought a G class some time ago. Year of manufacture 2016, model 2017. In the equipment list (purchased used) I recently saw the equipment code ME2 Output Increase. Does anyone know what that can be? Thank you and best greetings.
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Rugging in the stand…
Well, as the headline says, my TT is jerking when I am standing or driving at a traffic light. If I get on the gas then he drives like a 100 hp car, until then the full power is there again. This happens at irregular intervals. Does anyone know the problem??? So was already today for the 3rd time at the friendly. Nix in the fhelerspeicher, when the test drive is done everything is ok!!! BIn really despair, made the day before yesterday a change of oil, today BMC PlattenLuFi and übermo Rgen I’m going to put in new spark plugs. I bought the NGK PFR6Q. When the master saw this at Audi, he got almost a heart attack! “Don’t put in, only original Audi” he stammered… But on what they say, I don’t give anything more. I then called NGK, D&W and Wimmer extra. From all the green light for the spark plugs…
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V6 CDI OM642 Manual Starter change W251 V251 W164 W166
I had to change the starter of the R-Class on the weekend because it turned too slowly in the cold state. In the warm everything ok at home, without a stage. Since this is a really great task, I would like to let you share it. So maybe one can avoid the one or other cursing. I think that it was never really intended for Mercedes to change the starter, at least not when engine and gearbox are stuck in the car… If you know what to do and which tool to use I needed about 3 hours. However, it should be possible with the instructions in half of the time. 1. Unscrew the belt under the passenger seat to the right and secure – drive the seat all the way back to the right. 2. Extend engine cover 3. Extend air fluter housing in driving direction right 4. Unscrew clamp from the trouser tube / cat (behind the cylinder head) 5. Screw holder Trouser tube / cat (behind the cylinder head) unscrew SW13 6. To do this, you need a sawn off 16er ring key (approx. 2/3 handle length), thick leather gloves and a lot of power. Maybe there is also a special key from Mercedes. But in house use definitely nothing else fits. It is also not possible to get through the window in the wheelhouse, as the spring leg is directly in front of it. 7. Screw off the two screws from the exhaust holder on the gearbox. Now the cat can be pressed to the side as far as possible. 8. Dissolve screws from the starter. This only works with an overlong 1/2″ tilt extension 500mm (3/8″ probably also) with plug-in nut (and the upper screw additionally with joint) The extension is to be groped past the exhaust pipe/cat and holder. Very important: Please let the screws plug in! 9. Pull out a piece to the rear/top of the starter and then lie down at the engine bearing so that you can move from the top to the 10. Unscrew the two nuts SW10 and SW13 for the cables from the top/front. It is also best to use an over-long 1/4″ extension. 11. Fumble the starter backwards and take it down through the small gap between Kat, Karosse, and motor/gear. The installation then takes place in reverse order. Have fun screwing!
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S loader
I’ve heard that in some vehicles are so-called S loaders and that they have the housing of K03 and the bee of K04 is true and how can I find out if mine has such a one? Drive a 180 Bj 12.2001. Greetings Keule
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R500 no longer starts
Hello, a happy new year. Or not. Just wanted to get our R500 out of the garage after 8days of service. But don’t start. At the end of a small video. There was also no bridge, had thought battery too weak. But was actually from last year. Had just tried again, of course not. But strangely enough the pointer from the clock still ran several laps although I already had the key out. Funny or sometimes overnight over the battery connections in the engine room Charging ? Battery now has about KI 10,2V.