Hi, everybody! I’m new here and I’m looking for some help with the purchase of my own car. I have about 2000 euros available and would spend a maximum of 2500 euros on a new car (in the form of a installment contract)-so far so good-but which one and what should I pay attention to? I have unfortunately no one in this task who takes a little help, so I hope the community here as a ‘Notanker’. I’m looking for a reliable car (brand no matter). I drive mainly city traffic and have to come from A to B.. that would be it. I prefer a small car. Now there are dealers like sand by the sea, at a used car seems to buy like an Ü egg, the popular 7th egg you don’t get after all. I am also very afraid to buy scrap that brings me more trouble than anything else since I have only little money and it can not afford to have big what to do with the car.. ig I urgently need a car. Is there a ‘mark’ for serious dealers? Can you even get a decent car for 2,5k Euro? If so, there is a checklist what you should pay attention to? Have already many thanks for the help!
Author: 00c12f
-
Audi 80 B3 BJ.90 Problems
Hello everyone, last week I bought an Audi 80 B3 1.8 S Bj.90. The car is of course top in shot from the car body, also underbody, chassis, brakes, clutch, gearbox, etc.. Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa d Cylindrical Cope Seal is usually 2. The Lima gives a squeaking, grinding noise of itself. Should I change it? 3. In the trunk I can grow carp. How do I find the leaks best? Thanks already for the answers.
-
W 198/109 (300SEL 6.3) and its damage
Hello dear MB family, I am a member of the “Swedish League”, but I have discovered an interesting Mercedes offer. It is a “300SEL 6.3” year 1972 (so probably one of the last of the series W108/109). This car is supposed to be dry and deregistered in a garage since 1980 (“dry” is credible after the pictures – so the usual 40-60% humidity for rooms seems to be). The car has 24 Tkm. I know oldies, but not with garagesfu Therefore, the following question: what are the stability damages to be feared in relation to this model and the specific storage? MY guess: – tires, cuffs of the wheel bearings – rubber seals door cracked – brakes (sleeps, if made of rubber) – cylinder head seal cracked – tooth and V-belt cracked Is the following possible: – pistons rusted? – auxiliary aggregates rusty and non-govable? – acid damage due to battery or brake fluid? – automatic transmission clamped (converter)? orrectures and additions or comments of any kind very grateful. Friendly greetings P.S.: I am omitted: the car has air suspension. I ask for comments regarding also their age resistance
-
Weaknesses W 140
Hello, I have to buy a W 140 300SE/S320 in the near future. Since I am reasonably informed about this series concerning the chronicle, the motorizations and the equipment, I would like to ask here some questions like the experiences of the owners of these vehicles over a longer period of time. In particular I would have liked to know if it is worth buying a W 140 before or after the mopf 1994. What has happened technically apart from the optical changes? I would be interested to know if there are significant differences in consumption between the R6 and the V 8 engines? I would be happy about subjective impressions of you. I am very well informed about technical data regarding this vehicle. For me only a well-kept specimen of a pensioner would come into question. Greeting Bert
-
what else can you ask for a W220?
Hello together, meanwhile I seriously play with the idea to bring me a new car into the garage. For this reason I want to sell my “old” of course. What do you think you could realistically get for such a car. Here a few informations about the vehicle. W220 S500 EZ 11.2001 – therefore model year 2002 approx. 106000 km first owner! TÜV etc. new made in December all wear parts, among others 4 new brake discs etc. All maintenance work etc. at Mercedes gemac ht Now to the equipment: obsidian black leather anthracite root wood leather steering wheel wood leather selector lever Command Linguatronic CD changer fire extinguisher air conditioning in the rear phone sliding lifting roof in glass version mulite contour seats left and right Xenon rear window blind At Mobile.de the prices go so far apart that I am really not sure what a realistic selling price is. I have already contacted my dealer. to make an effort to sell, as he cannot pay me a good price. Thank you for your help. Greeting from Lower Bavaria. Anton
-
accuracy of tachos
hello people I have a question again…does it know exactly how exact or inaccurate the tacho information at a speed so between 110 and 150 km/h at w 140 are!! ???!! can you speak of a general deviation in height of XX % or is that from tacho to tacho different…can it be that you drive faster than the tacho indicates ?? I was flashed for the second time in 3 weeks and now it is kbapp…hope only for tolerance and “frozen” tacho”…love greetings chris
-
Connect Plu2 Dot-matrix Radio
Can someone give me a hint to connect this radio? I just can’t get the thing to run in the Audi. In nem Suzuki runs! In theory, a 12V and mass would have to be enough, right? The Audi has no ignition cable. Only lighting and calls non-indentified white. P.S. The quality of the radio is irrelevant in the mom. It’s just about cabling. So please don’t have a fundamental discussion.
-
sheet part under hat rack carrying part?
i have 80 b4 tdi and i have 10 koax 2way cheap boxes in my back. i want to buy new ones. now i want to know if the part is under the hat rack, i.e. the sheet under the felt-like part is a supporting element, because at the moment are fitting magnets the speaker just so through the opening of the sheet. there is practically a hollow in the sheet and below then a 5cm large hole, that the magnets just fit through. for 13 I can possibly drill the hole so that i I don’t think I’m in the slanting part of the hollow yet. can you do that?? not that I’m in a bearing part of the square (I didn’t find anything really usable, except to have “is garbage boxes in the rear shelf” or “build yourself in the door”. I know that it’s not the best solution for sound technology, but the holes are available and I just want to expand for rearfill. if there’s no supporting part, then I can drill it up to the point that I’m evo the 165 phase. bring in, which I still have at home?!?! just another question: what do I bring in front for boxes in my car?!? me float 10s infinity 2 ways in front of so in the way of the 42.5 series I read that in front only about 9s in tens a fummelei sin but still go and 13s practically impossible. in the doors I want to make net absolutely something for the purpose of walling up and there I also have to put cable etc. what I have to net in the storage etc. hope the text is understandable already thanks MFG pa Nzerfahrer
-
126 vs audi v8
Hello! after a long consideration I gave in to the will of my wife and bought her an audio v8. I was for a 126er sel.to my happiness, now turns out that the audio has a far too small suitcase aum (it does not fit a stroller pure).So the v8 has to go and nen sel her. the audio is black/black with 10X17 borbet and 20er distance discs front and back. it is a 89er, with 3,6liter and 270tkm. the condition is extremely good and there are a lot of calculations. if someone is inter esse has an exchange (I would also put a few euro on it),then please report.achso:the v8 of course also has euro2!!
-
Which steering oil for my SLC R172 ???
It could be so easy… I searched the complete operating instructions for filling quantities etc., but found with no syllable etas about the servo oil / share number etc. and what comes into the SLC! Same in the net nothing that brings me further! I still have from my SLK servo oil from Mannol 8980 MB 236.3 only I don’t want to just refill it on Good Happiness… Does someone know where to read the filling quantities (of all liquids and not only motor oil) at the SLC, or knows any and if the said mannol 236.3 is also to be used for the SLC, if not what release should the oil have? Should I have overlooked this point in the Bed.Instructions with the Servo Oil??? Greeting Rainer