1. Shock: In the cooling water compensation tank a milky broth has appeared in the upper area about 2 cm layer. The coolant level has increased. Engine oil level has sunk at the same time more strongly. Hopefully it is not the cylinder head seal. 2. Automatic transmission: When switching independently into the 4th gear is since Saturday a short and quiet “like rubber-flush noise” can be heard. Automatic transmission oil level, here I have no experience, I think is increased! I have to reckon with huge repairs. Km-Stand 165 000 – Built 94 – 2.0 E ABK. Up to now always top-expected. Who suspects or knows something about this horror?
Author: 00c12f
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Speed fluctuations Saws roll in idle mode or when clutch entered
Volvo V70 II P26 Built 2001, model year 2002 2.4l 140 hp petrol engine type: B5244S2 Hello, I’ve been through some posts and threads now and I hope for help or good advice from you… Basically I have 2 points, where I don’t know exactly whether they are related or not, therefore summarized in a thread. 2. Engine system maintenance required Since the vehicle is (almost) in possession, the error message is displayed sporadicly in the on-board computer. Sometimes a door is open open/close, and the message is no longer displayed. I’ve already read the wildest things about it but I didn’t get smart about it. Basically, I find that nothing is in the memory. The error memory has been read with VIDA several times, currently I don’t have the software anymore, but also with other Diag. nothing gets out of it.
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S60 T5
I don’t have any questions… I just have to give my nervousness room 😉 Today at about 4:00 p.m. it’s time… I get my FIRST OWN VOLVO!!! A S60 T5 BJ 12/2001 97tkm Oh man what a… steam hammer called it my father! My father gets his V70 2.4T today. I’m so nervous, I can’t say! I’m going to turn from a Mazda Mx-3 1.6i 65kw to a 184kw Volvo! – I could burst with pride! For my father this is the 10th V olvo in a row, the first car I drove after the driver’s license was a 740GLT… since it was clear – a Volvo will be! And now eat one! Can jmd with a S60T5 tell me what to make so realistic about top speed? Don’t misunderstand, I’m not a “cold heater”, but why buy a T5? 🙂 A bit of what “high-octane” you need already in the blood! Hope this post doesn’t bother anyone… Thomas
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1.4 TSI vs 2.0 TDI Shelf life / Recommendation
Hello, I am currently looking for a used Seat Leon ST FR BJ >= 2015 (optimally FL model) with max. 60tkm. I have come to the complex question 2.0 TDI (150hp) or 1.4 TSI (150hp) for me, as my overhead line is about 25tkm per year. Are the running costs (according to autokostencheck.de) at a very similar level. Since the >= 2015 models all meet the Euro 6 standard I have (at least up-to-date ) no concerns regarding driving At the moment I drive a Scirocco with the old control chain 1.4 TSI which after 4 years of suffering also raises serious concerns when buying a 1.4er again (even if it is of course a different engine now). Since the purchase prices are also very similar with low mileage, the decision for me currently actually depends on the durability of the engines. I already have something in the net (and of course only a few of them). ch here in the forum) and find no big outliers for both engines. What do you think about the durability? Are you faced with the same decision or was it not a question for you from the beginning for other reasons?
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“Compulsory breathing” C20NE 😉
So with my Omega A 2.0i there is still some space in the engine room. I thought that I could “force breathing” my engine with any fan or one of these leaves and thus get a bit more power out. The c20ne is also such a top stable engine. Has someone tried something like this? Shouldn’t be super complicated now, but as simple as possible and mechanically adjustable best. I already had a few ideas but wanted to get into experience if someone was looking for something like this. It’s just a thought, so don’t complain people.
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Warehouse damage / noise on the wheels
Hello everyone, have the following problem with my 1.6 Zetec 90PS Kombi Bj97. If I drive slowly (so up to 30 kmh) you can clearly hear a quite camp noise. Unfortunately, I can’t find out which bike causes the problem. I have already driven with several people and everyone thinks it comes from another corner. It is acoustically impossible to locate. Kent one of you a trick how to find out which wheel bearing causes the noise? I already picked up the car and the wheels. I don’t want to drive around too long, either, because a loud wheel bearing gives up its service for a short or long time. What can happen if a camp blocks, I don’t want to imagine. Greeting Peter
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Fuel consumption and tyre pressure
Hello guys, there would have been a question about fuel consumption and tyre pressure. I calculated my fuel consumption this month and came to almost 10 liters per 100 KM, which seems to me a little high. I have to say that I am mainly on the road in urban traffic and I am also on the road quickly with highway rides, so 130-150 KM/h. Switching into the next higher gear I do at about 3,000 uPm. Oil change with filter I made before about 4,000 KM with HighStar 5W40, as well spark plugs (Motorcra What I want to mention is the fact that my “Essi” in idle mode always moves between 1000-1100 uPm, which is probably also a bit high and could probably also have an effect on consumption. LLRV, DK-Poti and KWGEV as well as sensor in the intake tract have already been renewed, thus speed fluctuations went away but idle speed remained unchanged. LMM is also ok (if I pull plugs, it starts stuttering and goes into emergency run program). Fuel consumption real? What does your “Essi” consume on average? Tyre pressure is certainly also a topic in fuel consumption. How much air do you drive, for example, are the predefined values in my BA from FORD optimal? Drive almost never “fully loaded”, only my wife I take with me from time to time (if she was good). Tyre size is 185/60 R14. Thanks already for the info ́s.
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BMW K100 RT 1988 Ignition time “Hallgeber” Setting problem
Hello guys, I have completely overtaken my K100. Unfortunately after assembling, I noticed that the engine is not running properly! Turns suddenly up and down again without someone giving gas!! Power off ! Does not drive more than 60kmh ! I have motogadget Motoscope Pro installed but shows it no speed ! Did I myself buy reverberator adjuster and set it myself, but I don’t know if I did it right! I have the same problem with original wire harness and origi nale throttle valve. Almost all parts are renewed’ Ignition coil, cables, candles, battery, complete harness Motogadget, I don’t know the problem what there is! Unfortunately I forgot to mark the reverberator during the removal! Did I rotate 2 times crankshafts! I think the setting con Hall sensor is not quite correct now! Does anyone have a solution for this?
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Wheels ordered, ABE available, why TÜV?
Servus, I ordered rims and this sentence was in the last e-mail from the shop: Quote: The report we have before us is an ABE. There is no supplement in the vehicle papers required in Germany. You only have to present it to the TÜV again. The expert will then issue you an attachment confirmation according to §19 StVZO for about 40,-€, which you always have to carry with you with the ABE. I have to go to the TÜV before putting it on or it is enough if I go to the TÜ V if they are already mounted on the car?
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Yamaha MT-10 (2018) – throttle?
Hello, at the risk that there was already a contribution to this (which I did not find by search), I would like to collect here the – possibly – existing innovations of the 2018 model. At first glance I see an additional third light above the main headlights and a thus slightly modified wind deflector. In addition, I am concerned with the question whether the later remote throttle of an almost new machine could have a negative effect, because the insurance costs without throttling are enormous – with, in my case, they fall to about a third.