From the beginning I have the A-schein and think about getting back into the motorcycle ride. At about the same cost I could buy a new 48 HP machine (Adventure, Honda CB500X) or a 90 HP machine (Naked, Honda CB750 Hornet or ev. SUZUKI GSX-S 750 (somewhat more expensive)). I consider the reductions for a longer used machine to be too small. I am already 70 and would have to start driving training again from the beginning. I am aware of that. From the driving type I am on the careful This is because I have already provided assistance in several serious motorcycle accidents and have been specifically trained for such accidents. Which PS class do you think is advisable? There is also a big difference in the electronic equipment. The 750 machines offer much more.
Author: 00c12f
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Air loss in the rear tyre (slipping)
For some time now, a creeping air loss in the rear wheel annoys me. At the last check it was over 1bar in 3 weeks and also at shorter intervals I often have to fill up some air. For the ride/tour the tire then holds the air so this loss is only after several days of service life to notice. Is there a simple way to locate the possibly leaking spot without expanding the rear wheel? Is the probability higher that it is on the tyre or valve li The tires were assembled in early 2022 with new angle valves by a tyre dealer, where I had delivered the tires. Running performance of the tires is now about 8000 – 9000km at approx. 4mm profile residual depth. No, that’s no joke. 2022 a tour with tent and pack through Sweden and this year a tour into the Harz and one to North Hesse. Otherwise, the whole afternoon rounds and Sunday rides and so on. I’m a little unwise now what I should do. Air loss is annoying, because I often have to replenish air, but manageable. From the profile depth, the tyres would certainly last another season. If the air loss is due to a leaky valve, the wheel has to be removed anyway and the tire is pulled off the rim. In that case, I will consider whether I should have a new tyre pulled up immediately. Or I will replenish this season with regular air and get myself for the next season. on just new tires. Suggestions on your part?
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Too stupid for the A2 driver’s license?
Hey guys I wanted to know what you think of my situation, I’m 18 and started with the A2 driver’s license about 2.5 months ago. I’m driving a Honda CB650R and I just don’t feel comfortable anymore, I’ve fallen over with the motorcycle for the 3 times today!! The first time was in the first driving hour, I only come to the ground with the toes (I’m 1.62m tall) and I wanted to stop my left leg on the ground but I kept it a little too crooked and the Bik e was so hard for me that I just couldn’t hold it. I also made my car driver’s license with the driving instructor and we got along really well, he was then annoyed however and meant the bike he first got new and of the 8 driving students he has just done I am the first one who overturned it. Since I already felt bad, but shortly afterwards he encouraged me again that we can do it all. Then I had a few driving hours at denen also al Les worked well with slalom, dodge etc but braking was always my problem because I just got to shake after the brakes, I just don’t know why I always make sure that my handlebar is straight but I have totally problems with it until I dropped it someday 3 weeks ago and since then my instructor has also been kind of annoyed by me, I see sometimes when I do something bad he just shakes his head and turns away. I felt so shitty and since then it goes up and down, I have every week a driving lesson and either I drive totally super or just ride grotto bad.. last time then everything worked out great again but this time it came to it again that I was probably not really focused and while staying the bike has fallen on me again. Since then I have totally depressed my teacher immediately afterwards said to me actually he would send me home now w because everyone who overturned a bike 3 times is not made for it.. he wanted then that I put up the bike alone what I just didn’t manage no matter how much power I used and he had to help me again because I was just too hard. Today I also watched over 40 people on a public place because I felt even stupider then. We did then still a little further and everything else I got again well I don’t know if it’s because the bike is too heavy or too big, if I really just don’t concentrate enough, because sometimes it works out quite well or if I’m really too stupid for it and should stop. My instructor wasn’t even sure at the beginning if I can touch the ground at all but he meant as long as I can get down with my toes I should actually get this done. In the end, the Spr came again. uch that I’m the only one who lets the bike fly and when he noticed how sad I was he just meant I should go home and howl. I get along well with my riding instructor as I said and know that the last sentence was just a fun one, but that really gave me the last kick. I don’t want to anymore if I know that I’m going to have a driving lesson again and I don’t feel comfortable on the bike for a long time, I don’t know what I’m going to do Is there any advice for me and would you tell me your honest opinion if I should just leave it or if it might be due to the motorcycle? LG
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Are there Can-Am Spyder drivers?
Hello Biker community I don’t know if I’m right here, but I wanted to look around here, if it happens here, next to my Can-Am Stammforen, Can-Am Spyder drivers are on the way? Even if I don’t know how your Kradler stands for my vehicle, I hope I’m not out of place here! So again a searching, friendly ”Hello”’ on my part! LG, Emilia
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3-way financing – Exchange new cars with different models?
Hello together, first of all: I’ve already tried google and found nothing directly suitable for my question. Also in advance: I know that I could have regulated this differently from the beginning. e.g. by a cheap used to bridge, etc. This simply to direct the focus directly to the question. So: I ordered a new car in November 18, runs through this so-called 3-way financing. More precisely it is about a Ford Focus ST-Line. The problem here is that I own it. However, my car broke down in October 2018, which is why I drove my motorcycle with minusgrades without matching clothes (Hab ne Sommer/Autumn-Kombi) until November. Since I couldn’t / wanted to go through this until the early jar, I just inquired in various car dealerships and finally ordered the ST-Line, because the ST should only be on the market in mid-2019. I am now wonderfully satisfied with the car – only wanted (and w ill) really the ST. The question here is simply whether there is in general (independent of the dealer etc.) the possibility to give the dealer the car back (clear, with loss on my side) and to rewrite the contract to another car, here the ST. Of course I am aware that I will draw loss from it. I have the contract now at least 3 years and 3 months (I think that not the conclusion of the contract in November, but the delivery in February measured Is there any of you already experience? Please no answers that I have already received. In case it would have been smarter to take a cheap used bowl for half a year. Is not possible now. Oh yes, the contract has been concluded about the Ford Bank, if that is relevant for reviews. I thank you for helpful answers anyway! Have a nice evening and a nice weekend to you!
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Moby M1 stutters and shakes and goes out in the stand
Good day, I bought a mobylette M1 (bj. should be 1973), it stood for years in the barn was moved by the previous owner but almost never so all parts are still original. At first it did not jump on after which the spark plug was changed it jumped on and ran well even after a longer ride it went out and that start was hard when it was on it started to shake when driving and gave hardly any gas. Now I had them 2 days he stand and try it again today and she went on again a little hard but when she was on you had to give it a constant gas so it doesn’t go off besides she also very shaken and smelled burnt. I hope you can help me to find out that problem.
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Why gas shut-off taps
Hi, you certainly know all these 3 or 4 block blocks with shut-off cocks, whose hidden assembly is often criticized by camping “specialist” magazines. And, hand on heart!, who of us closes off the neatly? I don’t! And that for good reason! I didn’t know so far, but I did all right (hopefully you too). I found the following article entitled to quote in another forum. Quotation: In your controllers there is a so-called safety valve, which for the purpose This is necessary because a gas bottle basically works like a steam cooker! Inside there is a liquid, our gas, which, however, does not boil at 100 degrees PLUS, but at 42 degrees MINUS! The further the temperature goes out over this boiling point, the higher the vapour pressure! One can say – per 10 degrees temperature increase the pressure increases by a good 2 bar! Therefore me This is normal and has nothing to do with the filling level! In summer a propane bottle can reach about 12 bar, a butane bottle (e.g. GAZ blue) about 3-4bar. Since we can’t do anything with this high pressure, we have to lower it by a pressure reducing valve to our system pressure of 30 or 50mbar! So- now you have cooked your coffee in the morning and it is summer and also the refrigerator runs on electricity – so – K A GAS CONSUMPTION! This morning there were 50 mbar in the line and now it is 20 degrees warmer and the car is standing in the sun… There would be now the 50mbar of this morning, PLUS 4-5bar extension on it!!! Almost compressed air strength!!! Since your gas system is designed only for low pressure, the sensitive valves would damage your devices. Sure? Inside gas – Outside air – it must be allowed to rotate! So logically contain a seal of GUMMI or silicone! This is exactly what happens through the safety valve IN your gas pressure reducers! Mostly a small orange plastic nipple! I believe everyone knows! If everyone who has now thought about it would have to find out now that in the gas box under normal conditions gas MUST BE!!!! There is no error here!!! If it gets only a single degree warmer, these valves have already opened several times and at 100mbar the pressure is released for safety reasons. food! So there is not in the event of an incident, but IN NORMALFALL gas in it!!! If there were none, what would be broken! Therefore, ALL ZÜNDSOURCES are forbidden, no matter whether weak current or 220 volt. A gas-air mixture becomes ignitable from about 2% gas in the air part! That’s freaky little people!!! More than 10% is the mixture already too fat and does not ignite anymore! In the gas box therefore only lamps and switches, which carry the EX sign for explosion protected can be used! Everything else is here absolutely out of place and dangerous! A spark is enough and your beloved caravan is minimally a convertible… I hope everyone has noticed now! In the gas box must stand gas in warm weather, or it is something broken! So it is completely normal if someone opens his gas box and smells gas at noon! Everything OK! Nothing broken!!! Incidentally, who closes his shut-off valves IN the caravan and believes he does something good, errs tremendously! If these valves are to be the prescribed Printtla These valves should not be closed in normal operation! Those who are afraid of gas – bottle too! Where nothing can get out, it is the end anyway! These valves serve only one purpose! If you are on the way, I have only one stove, a fridge and a heater. Let’s take the fridge is defective. Gas outlet! If you had no shut-off valves, you could not have the valves. You don’t cook and don’t heat! So you have the possibility to put the defective device out of operation and continue to operate the REST! As this has to be done for each device, in case more than one consumer is connected in the car, for each ONE shut-off valve is prescribed! So simple is that! Whoever closes these valves, puts an important safety device of his car, which he paid for before, out of function! So NO SECURITY WINE, SONDER D AS ACCOUNT !!! So now I have written a lot and hopefully some of it prevented any nonsense with your gas plants to do! Laziness also has its good sides! Lazily and satisfied greets Franjo001
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230V 12 V switch
Good evening, I would like to install in my T5 with additional battery (80Ah) a fridge (12V and 230V without an automatic switchover) a small inverter (for laptop or mobile phone charging) and still a little bit of lighting (LED) now everything should be supplied by the battery and sobalt 230V are available the refrigerator should be operated on 230v and the remaining consumers over a rectifier with 12V made me a few thoughts and drawn a plan see picture now me in question this is so possible or is there possibly. a device that can do everything and I don’t have to build it myself or what do you think better? find out to the plan : K1 relay, which attracts when the battery G2 (via K2) has been disconnected and 230V are available via the relay then the refrigerator and the rectifier G1 is supplied with 230V K2 relay, pulls on sobalt 230V are available and separates the battery G2 from the consumers X1 and the refrigerator from the 12V supply and gives the Freig Abe for K1 Mfg
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Refrigerator does not cool with gas operation
Hello, our refrigerator in the caravan cools at 220 volts super, also it starts slightly in gas operation, but no cooling (although the flame burns – blue window glows inside). What can this be? mfG
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A new one!
Hello Camper! I wanted to introduce myself here as we are proud owner of a camper since today. Of course I made the typical mistake first to buy and then to write something into the forum – but no matter. The camper is an aged (1993er) Carthago Abakus Malibu on a T4 frame.er has now 88Tkm down (fits also from the checkheft) and 2 previous owners. From the optical condition he is very well maintained and drives (only miserablely slow – at under 8 0PS and an empty weight of 2.4T unfortunately also normal). Many greetings BB