MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • calli runs in the standgas unround

    I’ve tried everything, but I just don’t know where it can be… my calli doesn’t start so well, and if I let him run in the still gas for longer, he gets drunk, but then he pulls himself up again with a little gas and runs well again for a minute… and then the same problem again… is really shit to stand in the stump and shoot to have, that the calli stays right up to you… wodran can lie down… otherwise he runs like one… just this shit b I don’t know what the problem is…

  • Suzuki Bandit 400 suddenly no longer starts

    Hello, I’m new here hot Hannes and I’m 20 years old. Now to my problem where I just don’t know any more. I’ve been driving a Suzuki Bandit 400 with 34 hp with about 15000km. So far so good, it really ran perfectly over 1000km. Always stood up to 5 days dry in a garage. Suddenly, when I wanted to drive after a week, you didn’t jump any more. The starter spins and turns… 2 batteries I completely charged and torpedoed.. Nix.. With Choke/without Choke, with gas without gas tried, everything was brought nothing. One could always hear a quiet, “grumble” from the exhaust, as if she wants to come, but it does nothing. Then all spark plugs out and nailed, so that possibly fuel flies, brand new spark plugs in, however the same as before only that there were even a few false ignitions in the form of loud banging out of the exhaust. Ignition spark is there on all four plugs, candles are also wet after the orgling, so also fuel arrives. Air filter is also fine. According to the dealer, carburettor has enjoyed an ultrasonic bath, which is also plausible due to the perfect and quiet running properties. I really don’t know any more, hope that someone may know about it and can help me. Especially the sudden no longer start without what I did is funny. Thank you in advance

  • Remedy against swirled dirt at the rear?

    Today I drove with my new 453er convertible about 5 km on rainy road. This short ride led to so much dirt on the rear window that you could not look through. Logically, the cover is similarly dirty. (The predecessor, the 451er convertible, did not have this problem). I don’t want to hang any rubber flaps behind the rear wheels now, that certainly looks sour and I don’t even know how to fix them. Do I have to live with it in the future? Or has ever If yes, please info, how…

  • Brake disc high rust

    Hello, with my Yeti 2.0/110 4×4 the rear brake disc re. in the outer area is only rust, in the middle 2 bright wrinkles and in the inside more or less brightly ground. i.e. the braking force lies only in the inner area. I was at the dealer because I wanted to claim this after 9 months or 7′ km as a deficiency. This one said one must drive more powerfully or brake, not so careful. Warranty would be only 6 months. So well. I did not mount any seats at the back and can I then removed the brake pliers last week, removed the blocks in the mounted condition with 60th grinding paper wrapped around a file, looked whether foreign bodies or locks are present, assembled, no change. The question now is why only the brake disc shows hi. re this behavior on the inside, on the inside, on the inside, mainly alone, then loaded weights of approx. 120 kg behind and went on a brake tour, hand and foot brake, no significant change on the disc. On the other hand it was rather mixed, rust, blank, rust, blank Riefen. If it is on the pressure regulator, the one or the other looks like an axle, can one manipulate this time so that the rear axle is stronger? The hand brake should have the same effect on both sides. Had slowed it down to the stand several times from 120 kmh. Greeting A.

  • Which Yeti

    Find a replacement for my Jeep Grand Cherokee, as I no longer need the large trailer load (3500 kg) for my boat. I thought about a Yeti, driving about 10-15000 KM a year in the city-land traffic. From time to time I have my two-axle trailer to pull, however, because the 2000 Kg trailer load. (mostly) It should be an automatic circuit. What motorization would be the right one?

  • Yeti – Dynamic service interval

    Hello! Is it true that you get the service interval proposed by the Yeti depending on driving (max. 30000 kilometers, max. 2 years) and you have to do this in order not to lose the warranty? I’d rather ask you, because the young boys in the car business seem nice and friendly, but not always omniscient. What does the interval depend on? Hopefully the computer doesn’t just count the number of engine starts (possibly also at the railway barrier)?

  • Chip tuning on the Yeti 1.4/122PS

    I’ve been looking at the Yeti for a long time. However, I’d like to have more than 122 hp. I guess it’s only available with four-wheel drive so far. I don’t need it. Can anyone say if a moderate chip tuning (on 152 hp) with the Yeti 1.4/122 hp is compatible with all the units of this model or does someone even have experience with chip tuning with this engine?

  • Advice on offered EXEO

    Hello dear community, I need a new car and came across the Exeo when looking for used cars, which I like in principle price-performance-technically, because it’s like an Audi without a surcharge for the name. I have a test drive tomorrow with the following vehicle:https://www.autoscout24.de/…/…6b45-9ec9-3e0b-e053-e350040a5d22?… Can the connoisseurs tell me what to say about the price? So suitable or not? What I like is that both summer and winter tyres Since timing belts are only intended for 180k and DPF at 200k+, this would in principle mean a longer maintenance-free period. However, I have made some sense and read that the DPF suffers significantly from this when driving a lot of short distance. The car was registered 6 years ago, so 84,000km are not exactly full now. Also not dramatically little, but already so that you can assume from some short distance. Wa Then if the price should be feasible, what should be done? Would you rather pay only 9k 😉 An argument would certainly not be a navigator. Then I would of course ask the dealer about the DPF and if there was something about it. What would be arguments? Overall, the price for me actually looks pretty good, if you look for other offers. The EZ 2011 here probably pushes the price against those the 2012 or ’13 are registered and have comparable little down. However, I don’t really know why I turn to you connoisseurs. A buddy who knows more than I thought, that if I have several cars and which ones in the narrow selection, I should have them taken up again independently to have the stand of the ginge examined on the lift. Sounds useful for me, what do the connoisseurs say about it? Would then ask accordingly after the test drive, if what would speak against it if I had it examined independently on the lifting platform. Should he rumdruxen, I already know that what is. Would it be best to have a look at it directly at SEAT, right? I am grateful for every hint. LG Alex

  • Contribution invoice Car insurance differs 45 % from the offer

    Hello experts, after 7 years the car insurance changed to 1.1.2008, after I got an offer in November. At the beginning of December came a letter of the new insurance, if the preparation of the insurance certificate should be delayed, nevertheless there is insurance cover. Today the contribution invoice with Police entered. The invoice amount exceeds the offer sent to me by 45 %!!! The basic data (SF-Class, km-Fahrleistu) ng, engine power, user group, etc.) agree. However, an increase in the type classes was made and the type key was changed! (The offer was already created for contributions from 2008). The vehicle is chip-getuned. However, this was specified by me at the hotline(!) and accordingly a higher PS-performance for the offer. With SF 17 I also represent a reasonable risk for an insurance. Feel nevertheless cheated. What ka Ciao, fan.

  • Total damage-based billing or how do I see this?

    Hello guys I’ve been rummöbert ne whole time here, even after my topic …want to describe my case briefly. maybe someone knows an answer ???? I has a RV driven up in the back. The case is also already with Dekraexpertise with the insurance of the accident opponent, which admits also his guilt. My expert report results following. Rep. costs gross. 4112,82 Euro replacement value : 5500 Euro residual value : 2000 Euro I want to break according to expert reports. , so fictitious . What can I now count from the insurance , apply the total scourge regulation and stand afterwards totally stupid …or what is there again … all the costs I have listed are gross , I know that they are obliged to settle according to expert opinion , and deduct the VAT , someone has idea what they now have to pay , even if the total damage regulation enters into force ..would class if Jemnad knows , thank you and Gruss jogyjogy