so dear people have a try with my insurance. due to 2 damages this year I have been regraded from sf class 8 to sf class s. short explanation: vehicle registered on my dad ( sf8 ) then a friend built an accident and I have to be liable for it or better said my dad da insurance company. well then we were in the sf 4. said car logged off because gear damage. percentage of my dad overwritten me (after that I think why we do this). t have however no matter ) so I ended up thanks to not so long duration of my license bestize in the sf 3 ok we did not read the small print in the contract and ran stupid. then I bought a new car and registered on me and insured. 1 week after the registration there was probs on the road and I unfortunately have a new bmw covered. after that I got from the insurance company write that I now fly to the sf1 because of the accident of the sf3. I got angry but passi ert. then I get today a letter that I still …eur may repay for 2008 because thanks to the 2 accidents of this year I fly into the sf s. still don’t understand why I have been upgraded for each damage. maybe as a penalty for 2 accidents in one year. so now to the actual question. since I could save myself with the increased sf class with other insurances I wanted to ask if the following would be possible. n (because otherwise you can’t get out of an ongoing insurance contract without cost [refund of your contribution]) car then put down a week. with another insurance a contract ( either with sf s or stop what they offer me) then re-register the same car from before times apart from the costs for the subscription and registration I would still be much better off than if I would stay with my current insurance. now my question goes the or is this even illegal (why) hope someone can help me.
Author: 00c12f
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Change 225er with at least 3mm profile ->?
Last year, when I had my winter tires assembled, I was told in the friendly workshop that I had to get new summer tires next year. Now I am about to buy, but I just measured them again. The tires all have at least 3mm profile on them (Hints approx. 3.2; front about 3.5). Now I wonder if I can’t drive the tires at least until summer and if that’s worth it. I don’t want to take any risk. ut 3mm are already somehow borderline ok, then I buy new ones. Just if the workshop recommends a new tire, they do not do it completely unselfishly. So what do you think? Change or still drive a little bit? It is by the way Continental Conti Sport 3 225 45 R17
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Seat ventilation quite loud
Hello, now that it’s so warm I tried the seat ventilation once. I noticed that when the compressor is switched on, the air blows into the seat. When the compressor is running, you hear from the back left quite clearly current noises as if the compressor is blowing off. The cooling from the seat is not as effective as I think it is. If you have switched it to full power, you can only feel a very weak airflow when you are holding your hand over it. The extendable knee extensions don’t seem to be ventilated at all. Even at level 2 you can’t feel anything anymore. Is that also so with you? Especially this flow noise at the back bothers me. Is that from the air temperature actually air conditioning or mixed air like from the nozzles? Thank you and another nice Easter Monday greeting Dommi
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Splash plates for brake discs no longer available
Help The spray plates of the brake discs are completely rusty, are only available in fragments. They are no longer available, not at the Opel dealer, ebay or classified ads. Of course you can do this yourself. Not so easy but at the Agila. They are not screwed. I guess they had a round metal edge that was knocked into a groove. Exactly that is no longer recognizable. Did someone have the same problem? I don’t want to give up the car because of this. I understand until today n Is why brake parts are most made so cheap. Thank you in advance.
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Brakes Complete set Opel Agila
Hello together, my little Agila has TÜV and needs new brakes in the back. Now I bought some on the Internet, a complete set. It was said that they would fit for the car. They were even from Bosch. Now they don’t fit. My brother says they don’t go in. He didn’t help me any further, I should buy them from Opel expensively, but I don’t want them. Now I have sent everything back and selected new ones. Brand Textar. With this complete set from ebay is now there again, it fits When looking at the exact size/data of the car, what does it do with this car? Diameter of the selected brake : 200 mm Cylinder piston diameter : 15.87 mm Width: 29 mm What do I have to pay attention to? Do the mass fit for the car? Take care of what? Are there still differences in the brakes from the Agila, which has an influence on the brake purchase? The set was bought as pre-assembled as a set, so nothing should be missing? The data: Opel Ag ila A BJ 2001 EZ 2002 75 PS 2 L Nr. 2.1 License: 0035 Nr. 2.2 License: 389007 8 Do you need the chassis number? ( The selected brakes have the Ebay Article No. 372531854582 ) The front brake is also due. Is this ventilated or not with this car? Friendly greetings and thanks PS I am a woman, please answer intelligibly
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Opel Agila with Z10XE – high oil consumption and exhaust light is on
Hello, 2 weeks ago I bought my daughter a Agila A 1.0 because she quickly needed a new car. Unfortunately, we quickly found that he has a very high oil consumption (about 2 liters to 1000 km). Moreover, the exhaust light has been shining continuously since recently. Oil mist from the exhaust can not be detected, however, it is quite worn out. Also in the stand he does not lose oil and the engine is slightly damp from the outside, but nothing special at 170,000 km running performance. The oil pressure sensor is also dry. I did a compression test with a warm engine today: – Cylinder 1 – 14.5 after 9 revolutions – Cylinder 2 – 14.5 after 9 revolutions – Cylinder 3 – 13.5 after 12 revolutions. After 8 revolutions he had 12.5 The spark plugs had red-brown color, but the candle of Cylinder 3 was quite oily on the sides. Also in the candle hole there was some oil. The oil looked however as if it was s It is said that he got one after the sign before 8000 km or 11 months ago. To the engine run it is still to be said that he shakes himself in idleness quite. But I suspect that this is connected with the exhaust light. I have to get a diagnostic device first, then I read out the error memory. But to the oil consumption I need hints and ideas from you, how I should proceed. Greeting from the north Reiner-Omega
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Intake manifold from Corsa to Agila?
Hello, I’m completely new here and also little forum experience. So I first ask a question in the room and like to take tips on where and how I really proceed in the forum. After hours of searching for an intake manifold for my Opel Agila I try the easiest way now. have bought me a Agila as a transition car which basically gives me more driving fun (if it runs) than expected. Problem is after a short time restless running (sawing) of the engine. LMM It’s not working. It’s only possible to drive with a disconnected plug, but it’s only limited, because the brake power amplifier doesn’t work anymore. According to Kreuzberg’s workshop, intake manifolds are broken. It’s hard to find for the small engine. If it’s Corsa at all. Can it fit? or can it be excluded? And if I can take only one Agila, what’s it like with the numbers (Bosch). Do they have to be 100% identical? For example, my number Bosch 0280600020 and possible purchase 0280600039 (BJ 2003) I am happy about every answer. If I don’t get any further I would have to separate myself from the vehicle (sigh!) And here still the vehicle data and thanks in advance for everyone who takes on the topic opel-agila-a-h00-1.0-12v-43-kw BJ 12/2000 Intake manifold Bosch 0280600020 GM 09157499 0035-388 WOLOHAF681G081052 and I don’t plan to change myself. the workshop would fit a used one.
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Suzuki GSF 1250 – Sound after chain tensioning
Hello together I recently stretched out the chain of my bandit and after 1km driving I noticed a “ratting/knocking” sound from the pinion housing, which was definitely not there before. I immediately reversed and found out back in the garage that the chain was too tense. The chain has 24k km on it and is unequally hung. I probably did not take the narrowest place when spanning. Otherwise I kept myself to the workshop manual (20-30mm hanger on main stand The problem is that this noise doesn’t go away anymore, although I have made the chain looser and the crossover is now adjusted correctly at the narrowest point. What does that mean now? I’m worried that I might have damaged the transmission outlet bearing on the 2km drive, because the noise is still there even if the chain tension is correct. One reads again and again that this is not possible. But can it also be simply because of the old chain that the ride with too much tension has given her the rest? According to the manual the chain has to be replaced at 31.94cm distance between 21 rivets. I measured earlier over the whole chain circumference and the distance scratches at one place at 32cm, but otherwise lies at 31.8cm. Since I have only been riding a motorcycle since last year, I can not estimate how strong the wear is now. sounds really troubling and I’m not sure if I should drive at all in order not to break any more. Maybe you can give me a rough estimate whether it’s just the chain or the bearing. I uploaded a video of the noise for it. In the video I shoot my hand on the rear wheel and hold the camera on the pinion housing. Thank you and lg
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GSX 650 F is not running properly in 5th and 6th gear
Hello. I’m new here and unfortunately I found nothing on the subject. First information about my motorcycle It has run a Suzuki gsx 650 f built in 2008 22000km. Do not banish everything original except the turn signals and handles. Now to my problem. The machine runs so well. Jumps immediately. No side noises or similar. Unfortunately, she has the problem when she has driven warm she has a strange mute in the 5th and 6th gear. In these gears at a speed of 4000 to 5000 . I go off the gas it goes as strongly into the engine brake as if you turned the key and it turned out. When I give it back gas it rises so hard that the real blows are transferred to the chain. But that only at 4000 to 5000 revolutions and only in 5 and 6 gears. In the cold state everything is ok. Only when it gets warm it starts. Was already in a motorcycle workshop and my cynd candles and air filters. Has it also changed. Mistakes is still there. Can often j help us out?
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Gixxer clutch slip
Moin I have unfortunately found nothing about the SUFU:/ And that’s what I did with my K2 oil change and the clutch slips the first 10 to 12km, afterwards the clutch grips wonderfully. Is it due to the outside temperatures(10 degrees)? Greetings