MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • Audi 80 ABK Problems

    Hello my Audi doesn’t know any more problems. In the middle of driving he suddenly stops gasing and in the next moment he accelerates again quite normally. That’s how it works in 2-3 minutes mode I’m already desperate I don’t know how much further I’m afraid to drive back to work tomorrow and not to arrive. Does any of you know advice what could be going on. Thanks in advance, greeting, Gerd

  • Audi 80 B4 – VAG-COM – Group 000 of measurement blocks

    Hello, with VAG-Com (311.3) I have read out the group 000 of the measurement blocks in the motor control unit. However, for the correct interpretation of the values I would need your help. VAG number: 443907311C protocol: KW1281 component: 2.0l R4 Mono, D21 questions regarding the image in the attachment: 1. Which values are of which sensor/donor? 2. Where can I possibly find out the set values? 3. As they are certainly binary values. How is the conversion? 4. Is there a label file for my control unit? 5. I have already posted the same topic in the OBD corner, but think that there are many people who only update the “80, 90, 100, 200 & V8 corner” (like me). I am happy about answers. Thank you Mfg

  • NG ignition off, ventilation & lighting goes anyway !

    Hello guys, I’ve had a problem since today. At my convertible NG last week the battery was empty. Then I installed the battery out of the Coupe and left it overnight. This morning the battery was empty again. So again another battery in and through. Did not measure any waste of the current with the pulled fuses, however, the alternator does definitely charge. Then I noticed that despite the switched off ignition and pulled key the Windscreen wiper, which can turn on blower, furthermore, the lighting on the doors for the el. FH. permanently lights up. Since I don’t know about electrics so great, and I did not find the same case here I hope that one of you can help me. Thank you already Gruss coupeka

  • Kaufberatung/ -hilfe Suzuki Burgmann 400

    Tomorrow people, I have recently made a change of residence, and therefore have only to commute the 3km to work. I do not want to carry out this short distance in the long term with my car, and would therefore consider a 2-wheel for fine weather. To climb each time on my ADV for this route is a little unnecessary for me, and 45ccm also not possible with me. I want to keep an eye on the 2000€ So I came across the Burgmann 400, should to the Auf und Get down comfortable like a roller, and at least can make a little bit of pressure too. Villeicht can help me with my decision. To be selected is currently a 2006er with 28500km and a 2010er with 67000km. Is there anything typical of the year of construction and Km Typical on what you should pay attention to with these models? Or should you generally let the fingers of a used Brugmann, and get something else? Here are the 2 links to the concrete offered.htt ps://www.willhaben.at/iad/used cars/d/motorcycle/suzuki-burgman-400-434577316/https://www.willhaben.at/iad/used cars/d/motorcycle/suzuki-burgman-424823107/ Thanks already, I hope you can help me

  • 600 GSXR RAD does not want to start ignition signal ?

    Hello, our 600 GSXR RAD Bj 98 won’t start partout, compression 9 bar, carburettor cleaned 2 times, sparks also present. But the thing doesn’t want to run? I suspect that the ignition is not right. Where do the individual ignition coils get the signal when to the individual cylinders the ignition takes place ?

  • Suzuki GSF 400 GK75B 25 KW dethrottle.

    Hello, I got to the motorcycle quite by chance. The part has only 13 Tkm on the clock and in addition the box was also over 10 years.. I made so far everything new and also quasi a new carburettor donated. Engine runs so bombastic, only after the first test drive I was quite frightened about the performance, a look into the vehicle license… }> 25 KW {< What is that? that is already criminally the moped so to castrate. So the sliders go quite "normal" for r an EU vehicle on.. Where has it been throttled? Yours sincerely

  • Buy Suzuki Bandit GSF 600N Year of construction 95?

    Hello together I was just a Suzuki Bandit GSF600 built in 1995 for 1400 CHF (1300 Euro about) look/sample driving and need now some good advice. So the Suzuki has 59’200 km on the clock which I find quite a lot. It was always covered under the carport and in winter. So optical in a very good condition. It has no damage, so engine runs quiet and does not make a grub. The Suzi has no oil stains and also the Simmerings at the fork look good and are dense. In addition, there are also holders for suitcases +2 suitcases and the original exhaust (currently a Remus end pot is built up). In addition, motor protection brackets. Then there are other flashers built up. There are side sheets for all things, so nothing is illegal. In addition, tour handlebars are installed, also entered in the ID card. Service was always made according to the book and everything was documented on a enclosed paper at the last service (58,000km). r Salesman was very sympatic and I could, after which I drove, sit on it once. Despite the 25KW Drossel (Switzerland there is no 35KW of 1995 bandits) she went extremely well and I was also quite enthusiastic when driving. Circuit very tender and nothing hacked during the gear change. Now this sounds of course very good and I am quite pleased but nevertheless, 60’000km, 25 years old is a lot. Goal already that the motorcycle the next 30’000 still manages t. But nevertheless, the whole time between yes and no tends and almost breaks my head. Maybe you can support me in the decision with arguments for and against. Thank you in advance

  • Suzuki GS 500 35.1 kW

    Hello everyone I’m a little annoyed at the moment. I own a Suzuki GS500 built in 2003 which I offer for sale (in Switzerland). Now that we have a new regulation in Switzerland from next year on that now every A2 has to do no matter how old it is. This year it is still so with us that you can enter directly at 25 years with A. Well the problem now my machine has registered 35.1 kW in the ID card (for a novice 0.1 too much)… But since no one can enter directly k No one wants you either. 2 interested parties have already jumped off. The throttle on 25 kW costs with us at the Suzuki dealer inclusive testing 450.- what a lot is already for an apprentice… Now maybe someone has an idea? Maybe good sales arguments that I can put into the description? Or else an idea? Did I write in now that I would let you throttle for the surcharge of these 450.-, but whether that helps is questionable… Data: Motorcycle: Suzuki GS500H 2003 Km stood: 17’500km Last checked: March 2020

  • Locking / Locking / Locking the driver’s door blocked – door cannot be closed

    Good morning, especially today in the “snow-driving” the following problem occurs at our Agila A: With the FB the door was opened normally. After that, however, the door could not be closed: The bar or hook in the door no longer snaps back, remains firmly in the locking position. That is, when trying to close the door, the handle/lock bar attached to the B-Holm pushes against the lock/hook of the door lock or door lock and d He no longer snaps back into the “open” position. The door no longer closes. Instead, it swings up and thanks to the snowfall outside, it snows the interior. The interior lighting therefore stays on. The hook/bar in door lock mechanism sits bomb-proof and can not be caught back by force – with the other doors this works quite simply, slightly against it push and the bar/hook snaps back. I have now first the door from the inside with a cord tied, so that not too much snow blows in, and the battery clamped (because of the interior lighting), but that is not a solution. It is also striking that since then the FB of the key no longer functions – neither on nor on. The central locking as such, however, still works, i.e. both by turning the key in the lock as well as by the locking button in the driver’s door, the locking mechanism of all locks can be triggered. That the locking bar/snapper/hook of lock mechanics of the driver’s door remains in the “closed” position and is blocked. Outside it snows, it is cold, my ability and willingness to expand on mere suspicion the door panel and to try to understand the mechanics (if at all accessible) is therefore extremely limited. And since Sunday is also no workshop open. Does any of you know what is the cause and how I can fix it?

  • Agila A 1.0 gearbox / clutch

    Hello! I bought a Agila A 1.0 three weeks ago, built in 2004 with 77 tkm. During the test drive I heard an unusual noise for me, but pushed it onto the 3-cylinder engine, which is now a bit rough and louder. But that has not been so true. In concrete terms this means: the car runs quite quietly when the clutch is idle, I take the foot off the clutch, it gets quite loud, a grinding noise arises. A strange sound, which sounds like a loud suction of air (is not, but sounds so similar). The switching process is problem-free, no cracking noises, nothing ticks or jumps out. Only in sliding mode it is a bit louder (surrender). The much-quoted transmission oil change has been made at 24 tkm. I was now in three workshops and got the following assessments: 1. Opel workshop: clutch rear bearing, No doubt about it 2. Free workshop: Clutch rear bearings in no way, since no noise when coupling is kicked, i.e. bearings are loaded. Possibly Lager of the transmission shaft, the outer bearing can possibly be changed without disassembly of the transmission, it still has to be determined. 3. Other Opel workshop: Outer bearings are not, because see above. Can’t be said, one has to build apart and look. Before that maybe again oil level in the transmission before you build. Thanks! And by the way: Yes, I know I should have listened more carefully, the purchase was not my best idea.