MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • Change control chain, special tool, what parts?

    Hello, after the first problem now comes the second: the control chain , differently as with other car ́s this must be changed at Opel already after about 60,000 km , at least with me , the car tackert in idling without end. In various ranges was spoken of special tool , a tool is camshaft fixation like Opel special tool KM954, can someone send me the exact drawing with dimension !? Further there are in the net various providers of a control chain ( rep -Set ) The individual parts and prices go far apart here e.g. : – Scope of delivery: Control chain (endless) Guide rail Chain tensioner – Chain version Chain closed for 76,00€ 1xControl chain 1xGuide rail 1xGuide rail top 1xGuide rail for tensioner 1xChain tensioner 1xSeal for control chain housing 1xVentil cover seal 1xOil pump sealing ring 1xSeal for water pump for 118,50€ as much as until now white you need the seals then the time offer is the better choice, or !? Unfortunately, you can’t say what quality the chain is (where can you do that already). What should you pay attention to when buying ? Does someone happen to have a rep guide as PDF for me , would be really great !? Mfg Aggi

  • Agila A – Drive shafts have game in the gearbox

    Hello together, I have recently been in possession of a Agila A; 2004 Bj with Z12XE engine and F12 transmission. The car had a transmission damage before I bought it, the dealer has claimed he has replaced the transmission against one with just 40,000km (who believes..). I changed the transmission oil shortly after maintaining what at least once made the switching feeling clearly better, went before quite tight. However, the transmission makes a few unsightly noises, such as a rotary fence Ldependent grinding noise. Sounds a bit like something with every turn at one point is grinding briefly on a tire. Apart from that, I have a sporadic steering wheel flapping/vibrating on the highway that then gets worse by giving gas and almost disappears by uncoupled. I noticed that the drive shafts in the gearbox have a pretty radial game. Here’s a video: https://www.dropbox.com/s/dgzw24o1xp8wo3v/VID_20170415_134801.mp4?dl=0 Is the “normal” for the gearboxes? LG

  • Search Purchase advice for 600 SSP without worries

    Short version: I’m looking for purchase advice for: – 600 SSP – year of construction from 2007 (pathways of optics) – Technically non-invasive (jumps without problems. I have a real horror behind me with the last KTM) – I’m going to drive Hi together, I’m a student, 25 years old and have been riding Motrrad for 9 years now. (A total of about 70Tkm, last with the Supermoto also race track) After I sold my last motorcycle at the beginning of the year, it makes me itch again in my fingers. I thought of a 600s so about from the year 2007. As far as the models/manufacturers are concerned, I’m actually open, but it’s probably going to go for something Japanese, because this time I put a lot of value on reliability. I’m still a bit unsure about the budget. I could hurt if the moped has a few signs of wear, but I don’t want any, which already has a fall behind it. Also in the running performance I want so far on the itself I thought about something like this: GSXR 600, 22Tkm, 5300€Yamaha R6, 15Tkm, 5800€CBR PC40, 10Tkm, 550€ Does it make sense to spend more than 550€? Which models would you recommend? Up to what mileage should I look at? What should I create? PS: ABS would be very practical but then only the cbr pc 40 is in question. I don’t like it optically and is usually much more expensive than the others. Models that are eligible.

  • Fork too soft – preload ?

    The fork springs are progressive (series) and the fork is correctly filled with new damper oil Rowe 5W20. Air chamber measured. Now, distance sleeves fell into my hands, which I expanded to progressive Promoto springs when converting another motorcycle, because they are longer. Spontaneously, the idea came to me to stretch the Transalp fork with these sleeves a little bit. Of course, not by 120 mm, so la ng are the sleeves, but they can be cut off. I then thought about 20 – 30 mm pretension. Opinions ?

  • Plastic welding of cladding

    Meal the ladies and gentlemen, I would like to hear your experiences regarding the repair of cladding parts. It’s a matter of fact that I noticed on the front panel a crack at the transition to the lateral cladding on the PC37, which does not belong there at all. The two parts are connected with whole 3 screws, exactly at the bottom of the three the crack jumped into my eye and my good mood was spontaneously gone, in order to run briefly screaming in circles Is there a total of 2 cracks, which go away from the screw holder, 2 – 3 cm small and yet so big.. On the visible side mostly covered by the decor set, I am currently thinking about how best to deal with the topic. I will first solve the screws today to give the topic some relaxation, at the moment there is a pull on it. Are there practical ways (wehe, now something of armor tape 😛 ) to repair this? Thanks how crazy.

  • Installing alternator in Felge?

    Hello, I’m new to this forum and I have no idea if I should ask such a question here at all, but I’m just doing it now. If you install an alternator like a scooter/motorcycle in an electric car in the two rear wheels, if necessary also the front wheels, and the rim is magnetic, so that when the wheel is turned, i.e. when driving, power is generated, then it would not be possible to recharge the battery when driving, so that you almost never get more power “danks” I had the idea of one night, maybe you can save the world like this?????? I hope I’m right here, and you have an answer to my question…

  • Find someone in Wolfsburg & nearer surroundings who knows VW motor control units very well.

    Moin, sometimes I have cars whose engine control unit is broken. Often it is “cold soldering points” or the electr. connections at the “Eprom”. Search specialists who can repair engine control units and “learn”. If someone knows such a specialist in Wolfsburg and near surroundings up to 50 km radius, I would be very grateful if I could get a tip or address. Also by PN here in the forum. Friendly greetingsGrützy

  • 453: Are there also satisfied drivers of the new smart?

    Hello together, in the forum you can get the impression that the new smart is completely burdened with problems. I don’t want to deny them or talk nicely, but I wonder if some are satisfied? By this I don’t mean whether the car is perfect, but whether it has met the expectations or if you would buy the 453 again. I’m curious who is “outet”. After all, it is always easier (and unfortunately also usual) to practise criticism instead of praise??. Gruss andi2003???

  • the tired mature theme, need new summer tires

    Hello, I am currently looking for new summer tires. need 225/45/17 on star spoke 96. a mature has a bump, the fabric inside is probably torn. since one does not buy a new mature, I have to take at least 2. however, since I have more often gelsen, that there can be problems with the esp, with different tyres/profiles/profile depths/marks, I think to exchange immediately all 4. at the time arepirelli p6000(I believe) on it. now the question arises, either r buy only 2 new tires and for that “good” brand tires around the 100 euro? or rather buy 4 new tires and for that something like nokian/nexen/nankang for about 70 euro the piece? 4x 100 euro unfortunately are not in question at the moment. one reads in the internet the most different things, one are fully satisfied with favorable matures, the other drive nothing under 140 euro the piece, since the mature is indeed the only contact to the road etc… my ride profile is nothing extraordinary, I move my 316ti completely in compliance with society via Germany’s country roads, actually never in the border area and also very rarely on autobahnen. fazit–> what would you do, 2 new “brand tires” for about 100 euro buy the piece, or equal to 4 new for about 70 euro the piece? ps: the remaining 2 old tires still have about 4-5 mm profile

  • Conti or Dunlop Pneus?

    Hello guys, I once rolled through the search function, but found nothing useful. I have to buy new summer tires now, because the old ones have DOT 1400. Nu would like to buy aluminiums and screw on size 195/45R15 wheels. I clicked through the manufacturers and in the end came across the three friends: – Conti SportContact2 – Dunlop SP Sport 2040E – Dunlop SP Sport 9000 Can you possibly tell me pls, which I should take like this? is not sooo the world around… I do polo with 75 hp. Like to ride around the curves faster and so on. But is not a heater car. That’s why I also want to have tires from brand manufacturers and there relatively good at a suitable price. Thanks in advance for your answers. Greeting Bingo