Author: 00c12f

Gude got me a z1000 BJ 03 , had had a slipper with the previous owner and exhaust , dent in the tank and disguise on the ass , abm footrest also warped left side . Have they now built up and I drove before times a lap , has everything worked well has had itself switched butter soft , today tried and more like in the first gear and idle went no more , have then bitsel tried to adjust on the pole without success . What can this be ?????? Had still an oilwe Chsel made since the previous owner 10w60 had made by motorex pure and I now 10w40 motul Would be shit if it were the gearbox at once ??

Which hoses come like the carburetor? This is not to be seen in the workshop manual. I didn’t develop it myself and therefore don’t know about it. and sorry, unfortunately, can’t take a picture at the moment. There are at least 3 nipples, 1x central probably for fuel supply and 2x left and right between the two external carburetor units. Will the two outer ones just be connected to each other or will they go back to the tank again? Would I be very happy if the j Can you say something?

Moin municipality, after many years without problems with my thickness, it has now apparently caught me. Brief history: On the way to the Tüv purpose HU I established a leak on the right fork tube. Okay, off to the screwdriver of my trust. Where the thickness was already there, he should also let Tüv go along with it. Up to this time I had installed floating Brakingwave discs with sintered blocks. Had no problem with any test site because of this with the HU. On the Derkra tester, which is too much game in the floaters and therefore did not give a badge…. Since I have made very good experience with wave discs and sintered blocks I ordered again, this time the one from TRW, because the Brakingwave allegedly should be “scrap”. Since the former screwdriver of my trust for the installation of the discs and blocks incl. material had called 750-800€ I decided for the self-installation. Up to now also never had problems with it, no matter if Car or motorcycle. Now my problem: On both sides the inner blocks are no longer released from the disc. The exteriors are already (approx. 0.1mm). Thus the front wheel does not rotate freely. I have now driven about 50Km, but nothing changes. I pushed the pistons in the saddle with a piston reset. Ging Buttersoft. Brake effect is good according to the new discs and blocks. I measured discs. From system rim to outside 13,5mm as it should be. The front wheel s In the pictures you can see clearly that the inner pistons have extended further. When the pistons are pressed back and I measure inside and outside from piston to brake disc I have left 0.1mm and right 0.2mm difference. I would say that the discs are centered in the saddle. I hope someone can help me here, because somehow I just lost confidence in my thickness 🙁 Greetings and a beautiful Sunday still. Andreas

Hello, I’ve been fighting for 4 weeks with the 250 tbsp of a friend who’s been standing in a corner for the last 3 years because she hasn’t been running. I’ve already reported on it in a different thread, and I’ve been able to solve some problems there. Unfortunately, I’m not getting any further at the moment, and I’m trying my luck now in a new thread that specifically describes the current problems……Previously following info; I’ve got the two carburetor(s) in the last 4 weeks All nozzles and cables are free, all trains are OK. The idle needles stand on factory setting 1 3/4 revolutions. Problem 1: If she has stood one night, she does not start. With Choke she generally does not start. Without Choke you notice that she wants to start, but does not get enough fuel. If you increase the idle with the idle screw, it runs on, but then turns very high in idle, so that you have the idle with the screw problem 2: If you pull the clutch during the ride and let it roll, it goes out after 100-150m. In the stand, however, it runs for hours. If you let it roll downhill without pulling the clutch, it doesn’t go out. I’m curious about your ideas….. Greeting Dirk

Servus, I’m new to the forum. I’ve had a GPZ 550, year 1988 for 20 years, original 50000 km! Last year she started jerking from time to time. I couldn’t find a mistake, I pushed it to the age. But for a few weeks now she has stopped suddenly. This can happen after 20 km or 170 km. This happens sometimes if I want to take the pace back, e.g. from 120 to 80 and then accelerate again. I have the impression she gets no fuel. I stay about 3-5 minutes My workshop did the following tests: renew fuel hose with filter, renew vacuum hose, check petrol tap and tank ventilation, check air filter, ignition system, ignition cable, ZK plug, check candles, check all cable connectors to the LiMa and ignition system, check ignition setting, charge system, (charge voltage 13,4V) battery. Has someone from Eu ch had the same problems? How have these been fixed or can anyone give me a tip? Stupid only that I want to go on vacation at the 30th, so very short notice. Greetings and thank you in advance, Walter

Hello, I have the following problem with my Kawasaki Zephyr 550. I opened the machine a few weeks ago from 27 to 50 hp. During this time with 27 hp the problem occurred the first time, at some time on the highway, therefore hearing speeds the machine went out and I had considerable problems getting it back on. It had no fuel in its inflow. Now with 50 hp it no longer goes out, but after some time with a speed of 140km/h and higher the power decreases and I can no longer reach more than 100km/h. I then drive to a side strip/park and wait for a moment, then it runs normal for some time. It almost seems to me as if the speed limiter turns on in the car, which however cannot be due to the speeds of the Kawa, but the stalling is the same. I found that the tank is rusted from the inside, but this problem was fixed, at least once. In addition, I have renewed the fuel filter, where I found rust sets in it. Can it lie somewhere on the carburetor or does anyone else know a good tip??? But please don’t “ask the dealer”, I have already come up with this idea, only that didn’t help me any further and a reperture would be between €150 and €1000, depending on what to do. I would be very grateful if someone had a solution ready, greeting Oliver

Hello guys, yesterday I bought a GPZ 500 and drove home (45 km) because you are top in shot according to VK. two weeks ago during the test drive everything was OK and also yesterday until shortly before home, since I turned up up to approx. 8000 rpm and from there you did not go more than 3000 – 4000 rpm no matter in any gear. I changed candles, filters and oil today in the hope of eliminating the problem. I firmly set the only 2 liters of oil from the 3,4 without filter. he was inside, this small amount can lead to damage to gearbox and engine because since then power loss has also been present a metallic ringing and you run very hard and unevenly. Thank you for pointing out advice and possible cost forecasts.

I wanted to start thinking about saving my money until my 18th birthday and then getting a Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R. Or should I now rather get a YAMAHA YZF-R 125 (or Aprillia RS125) and then, with experience, get a big machine like a Ninja? Because I’m not sure if the ZX-6R has too much power for the 1st motorcycle. But with the YAMAHA YZF-R 125 (or Aprillia RS125) I’m not sure if the power is enough. The ZX-6R would i You’d better save on the 600s or get a 125s now to get to know a motorcycle? And if 125s, which Aprillia RS125 or YAMAHA YZF-R 125? If you want to get to know a motorcycle, you’d better save on the 600s or get a 125s now?