MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • Motor vehicle tax Tarraco TSI and TDI according to WLTP

    Hello, I have received my car tax notice for the recently delivered Tarraco 2.0 TSI FR4 (4 Drive): 258 EUR per year. Now that each vehicle is individually determined according to the new WLTP standard, it would be interesting to see what the other engines/model versions (1.5 TSI, TDI 150/190/200 hp; all-wheel drive/front drive) have to pay and whether in 2019 registered still according to the old NEDC standard (low) continue to pay the lower tax. Greeting, engine man

  • Accelerate dropouts

    Hello I have a 2021er 2.0 tdi 200 ps tarraco and the following problem. If I have a normal acceleration the car deceleration as if I was giving the gas to press the clutch stupidly expressed so it is quick to inflate and off and that causes a strong jerk. This especially occurs during uphill rides. Error I have read nothing no entry. A second question would be normal that the car in empty run between 12.3 and 12.6 volt, while driving 13.3 volt and braking 14 .6 volt has? Thank you for your help

  • Escort GAL 1.4 Do not ignite

    the topic could have been there several times, but since I would like to mention a few before I do a separate topic on advance it is a 02/97 Ford Escort GAL with 1.4 mashie so 75 hp KM running power approx. 135tkm problem with the thing that the car is quite annoying, first new coupling, then new VA, then new cylinder head seal and in principle every week something new. The crankshaft sensor was also renewed this year. Now it is so far that the carts on the spot For about 1 week he has had the moth every now and then not to want to ignite, on unfathomable reason. As said now it is so far as nothing at all can go. The warning lights turn on, but the bezin pump is no longer heard. Thereupon it was tested: cables in the engine room and general-> no defect found Current supply Bezin pump -> not available Relays and fuses plucked -> no defect found Terminal 15, 31 and 30 tested -> no defective found Breaker switch Bez inpump -> no defect found The functions have been tested with 3 different keys (yes all 3 have worked so far) but without success. Distinctiveness: 1. When the ignition is switched on no impulse on the fuel pump relay! 2. fuse 33 (fuel pump) has 12V 3. fuse 13 (cold start valve, engine control, gasoline shutdown) has 0V 4. The LED of the immobilizer flash (according to the driver) has not worked for ever, but (I checked) I hope the that was detailed enough and that someone else has a tip which I could check to find the mistake. Thank you already in advance. Thx

  • Oil pump defective, control lamp ALWAYS on?

    Hi, this goes to all who have already had an oil pump defect: Did the control lamp light up with you even with a cold engine? (Is a 92er 1.4er, F6F’ I think) I don’t know exactly if the bearing or the pump is responsible or both, warning lamp and hydro plugs only report at operating temperature… Oil pressure loss first appeared at enough high oil level and that smells for me after oil pump defect, but the oil pressure switch was definitely not. The car was standing for quite a while, had a lot of short distance before, had fresh oil, was gently driven warm and had blown out a few black smoke during the acceleration. Couldn’t there have been dirt lumps loose and destroyed my pump?

  • Rear wheels do not block

    my problem is that the rear wheels do not block with my escort, I have tried it already on races but no chance. even with full pedal pressure the wheel can be set up, with effort, still with the hand dream and that on both sides behind. I have already opened the brakes and could not detect anything, no oil, brake cheeks io, and the wheel brake cylinders are also running. if I put on the hand brake only a raster to block the wheels and can also not be used with all can someone tell me how to do this that I can only achieve a minimum braking effect in the rear? mfg rigo56

  • Timing belts

    Good evening, in the morning, my buddy changes the timing belt for my 93s Escort among others. The car ran 117.000 km. But it can’t be determined if the car ever had a timing belt change. How likely is that that one has not yet had a change? According to “So wirds wirds” you need a pen for something, when the car gets a timing belt change for the first time. (Because it’s not in the factory). Wouldn’t be stupid if we build everything apart tomorrow and the Z strap has actually never been blown 😛 I need soothing words so I can sleep well tonight MFG

  • clapping noise in the engine compartment

    Hello, drive a Mazda 6 GY diesel with 100 kw, BJ 11/2004 and nearly 108000 km on the clock. Now to my problem, for about a week I hear as soon as the engine is warm a quiet rattling noise out of the engine room. Sometimes it disappears and comes back, in front of everyone in the lower speed range and in the stationary gas at the traffic light it can really annoy. Have it today quite well located and I think it comes from the vicinity of the Lima and the timing belt. Someone an idea or a similar it already had a problem? It was changed 3 weeks ago the starter but I would exclude it as a source of error. Thank you very much in advance for all the answers. MfG Mike

  • Loss of power ever stronger in the K4M

    I think my little Megane III is slowly getting weak on the chest. The loss of power in the warm state is getting worse. When the engine is cold it pulls neatly. However, as soon as the engine gets warm, I am only on the switch. In the 5th at 60 km/h still something to speed up is almost impossible. If I latch there fully on the gas he can possibly get a KM/H per second more. In the 6th he can only keep the 60 km/h with connected limiter. I ch first thought that the clutch is now finally through, but also the speed does not rise even though it reacts loudly, when I give gas… Even in urban traffic I have to switch to the 3rd to overtake such a 45kmh Schleicher… On the track it hardly gets over 150kmh. The car was always a little weak. The megane of the workmate with the same engine goes there clearly more splashy. Has someone here perhaps already experienced the same thing? Are these the last twitches u nd should therefore repel the car as soon as possible or is there still hope? The current consumption when accelerating goes loosely up to 19l and while swimming with the 6th at about 5l. 1.6 16v 110ps Thank you for the answers, if any come.

  • Megane Ruckelt idle

    Renault Megane Cabrio 92T Km, built in 2004 113hp 1,6 Hi! About 2 months ago the Renault started in the stand to Ruckeln. According to FS analysis it was the ignition coils. In the meantime I had all 4 replaced in the workshop. New spark plugs are also installed. Now after my holiday it starts to jerk again in the stand. It sounds like a trecker, but it is not so crazily that it is just before the go out. The speed fluctuates slightly, but you notice it. What can this be about now? n has never driven Renault before, so I don’t know much about the typical problems with the model. could it be due to the MAP sensor (suction tube pressure sensor)? It wouldn’t be difficult to replace it.

  • No idling possible

    After starting, as usual, a gear was inserted and it was supposed to go. But it only went a few meters, then there was a short “knack” i.e. gearbox and end. The gear did not go out anymore and the engine did not want to go. Since then, several attempts have been made to get the gear out, to switch to idle, in vain. Also an attempt to start in this condition (with the inserted gear) remained unsuccessful. When slow release of the clutch is usually a gear. When the clutch is completely released, there is only one jock left and the engine is running out. Probably the clutch is defective. That’s why I want to go to the workshop with the car. However, I don’t know how, if the circuit is no longer working and there is some gear in it (which is currently in it, is unknown, since several attempts have been made to switch over in the meantime). Towing with a second car is due to the inserted sound. n Ganges, not possible. Does this mean that now only the towing service remains, or is there a way to tow the car, despite the sluggish gang / this “blockade”? Do you have any advice? I wanted to avoid the towing service if possible.