Hello, My buddy bought the Opel Omega, this time the new model with a 2.5l DTI engine and automatic transmission. Now he has a problem, and annoys me. He thinks there is a whistle coming out of the engine compartment at approx. 2000U/min with load, i.e. when giving gas on the track or on the mountain, always a whistle or howling from the engine compartment (seen from the driver’s seat the whistle comes from the engine compartment to the right). The whistle stops from approx. 3000U/min again. Meanwhile, the entire turbocharger has already been changed on guarantee and also some hoses. But the car still whistles 🙁 According to FHO this is a normal whistle, but he doesn’t want to believe this and I haven’t read anything about this yet. Can it also lie many times on the viscolufter? Can you give me here tips on what it is? Or is this whistle really normal?
Author: 00c12f
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Am despairing please for help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hello am werlich am verschwinden haben die schnauze geschlossen full I have an omega b caravan 2,0 16v x20xev automatik have problems for quite some time and that….. when the engine gets warm he doesn’t take as good gas any more! and when I give gas and he comes over 4000umin spins the electric, say the speedometer plays crazy(jitters jumps high down) and mostly he takes garkein gas more and bursts the engine(motor light flashes along) , then I have to stop to start it again(da automatik)then he runs again. Was in FOH the said ignition module I did not change any change, then again you have said LMM again I changed the same again, then you have said it can be a mass error, have all the mass contacts to the part to the karosse screams to the part. now you can not let it go with me the same thing, I have changed it again yesterday, I have changed it again from the same time again.
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Sensus Navigation (2013) Update
Have now made the update (as of April 2018) from Navi via Stick. So far so good, but I can’t notice any innovations. In my surroundings, innovations have been made in the road guidance for the last 1 1/2 – years, such as gyro. But these things are not taken into account in the update. Does someone know how busy Volvo renews his cards? Am there a bit disappointed, can’t be. that you have such a long delay in updating the cards.
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Change cooling capacity
A new day, a new question: I have an E 320 CDI T-model, Bj 5/2000, 140,000 km, there is in the service booklet under “additional work every 3 years: coolant change”. My free workshop means: “Do you really want to do this to yourself?” Does this really make sense or is it covered? Can only affect the corrosion protection in the cooling water, frost protection and cooling effect do not age, doesn’t it? Does the change also help to prevent the calcification of the cooler? 5 years with approx. 100,000 km it should still last … Thanx
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These indicators are broken…..
Hello, I’ve been driving an MB E220 T CDI BJ 99 or 2000 for 2 years. At my last KD (ATU) I’ve been pointed out to leaky injectors and I’m supposed to have this fixed with MB – what I wanted to do today too (at ATU the necessary tool is not available) During the preliminary interview the MB Master said that an exchange of injectors with a probability of 70% to 30% will not be necessary, so his experience would be worth. But after the review almost hit me. The statement of MB: all injectors are totally fixed (or destroyed – or as always you say, I forgot to be afraid) all 4 have to be replaced and that costs times so sluggish 2.500 €. I first picked up my vehicle again and would like to get some opinions about it. The car is also totally rusty – so that I don’t think a repair is worth it anymore – even though it’s only 180.000km and still an inheritance from my father is! My question – can be asked – thank you for the same thing?
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How much oil does a CDI engine eat?
Hello! I am surprised that a new engine should eat oil at all. I mean not oil loss due to a leak or something, but the consumption of oil in the operation of the engine. Could you please indicate your experience possibly with age of the engine driving performance, so that I would have a comparison. Thank you MM
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Aral 0W-40 or Mobil 1 ESP 0W-40?
Hello together, with my old W210 CDI I had excellent experiences with the normal mobile 1 0W-40. Now with my “new” W211 E320CDI, Mopf, the first oil change is for me. Which oil would you rather recommend to me: the fully synthetic Aral SuperTronic 0W-40 or the mobile 1 ESP 0W-40, which is probably not fully synthetic oil? Or don’t give them anything important? Thank you for your help!
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Mini one R56 engine no longer running
Hello together, am new here, I bought in January 2020 a Mini R56 one 1.4 with 95hp year 2008 with 162tkm. Bin hobby screwdriver and have replaced before the Tüv test the following parts: Brake complete, lamda probe before Kat, both cam wave sensors, coolant temperature sensors, spark plugs, air filter, oil, oil filter and rib belt. Chain without audible noise. Tuv passed without defects. Now to my problem, My daughter drives in the 30s zone stops at a junction, engine stops and starts no more. Starter runs, no ignition spark, when the start attempt smells like gasoline. No error message in the memory. No lamp lights up, which could indicate a fault. With second key the same. fuses engine room and passenger compartment all tested and good. Compression on all fours between 12-14 bar. Control unit submitted after verification found no error! Battery exchanged no change. Has a professional of you a tip that I could look at the still? LG into the forum, am new here.
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Exhaust “plobbt”
Hello, I drive a MINI S (R56). Occasionally the engine “plobbs” when it’s up (especially from the 1st to the 2nd gear and from the 2nd to the 3rd gear), sometimes when it’s fast, sometimes even when it’s cozy. I know the “plobbing” from the JCW and other sports cars (or tuned Prollo carts), but I didn’t know that the Cooper S could do the same. How does this pop-up actually come about? Can you deliberately provoke it or avoid it? Or is it even a technical error? Thank you for your answers!
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search readable OLstab for 1.6 ccm motor S – variant
here always has to hangugge 10 times – you can recognize nice where the stand is the oilbrow … I always take a cw wipe and wake lobe and tupf there … ————————————————- there is a recommendation for what better lessable in sabre form ? zb : https://www.ebay.de/itm/353582015393?…