I am long-time owner of a 405 TD Kombi Bj. 91, still without a cat. Unfortunately, there will soon be the green environmental badge in my city. Therefore my question to all experts: is it possible to install the 406 HDI diesel engine into my old sweetheart? I have read something like this in forums from England. Yes, of course it is completely uninteresting economically, but I hang on to the old box.
Author: 00c12f
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Quality Harley clothes?
After half of the glued “Riveten” on my half-year-old Harley shirt has said goodbye and another half-year-old is just “old”, when buying green shirt after a few washing times is more yellow than green … I wonder: Did I catch Monday’s goods or are the Harley clothes in total such a gelump? What are your experiences?
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Volvo 850 T5R Power loss at turbo effect
Hello again. I hope you can help me. I have the following problem: As soon as the charging pressure indicator is in the middle and the turbo should be in use, it accelerates enormously power – it accelerates much slower than it should. Sometimes it is also short. Error code is not stored. What could be the cause? I think of something like solenoid valve for turbo control (N75) but measured it and the values fit. Membrane of the wastegate works.(tested with pressure pump) Mention the car still runs normally in idle run. Also when driving as long as the effect of the turbo does not use. Recently it was completely maintained…. was made: *Service incl. oil change, petrol filter… *complete ignition system new *dish belt incl. water pump *all vacuum hoses new *complete charging air penetration new *new air mass meter *new camshaft sensor *new turbo (18T) *crank housing ventilation incl. all hoses new *dail seal new, exhaust manifold seal new *complete charging air seal new *complete charging air seal new *new air pressure meter *new air meter *new air meter *new air meter *new air sensor *new air sensor *new air sensor sensor *new air sensor *new air sensor *new air filter *new air filter *new air filter
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Volvo 850 2.5 20V 170 hp has no power
Hi, I got my Volvo 850 2.5 20V with 170 hp again the nen buddy now about 2.5 years, because he does not need it anymore, but somehow he has no power. In advance, I bought the car about 3.5 years ago, according to Tacho he had run at that time about 310T the KM counter stood but there already, then I drove about 25T and my buddy 2.5 years loosely 75T, so he already ran clearly over 400T. The engine still runs as I got it at that time, he really did not have power at that time, he runs with downhill and back wind 170 to 180 KM/h and does not accelerate really fast. The tooth belt is new a year ago, my buddy had made it once and spark plugs also, it can not be that, the engine runs very well, I would say, no clapping in the stand he really runs great and very calmly grasps like a thick V8 am therefore really surprised. Oil consumption was and is still very high 1 liter on 1T he does not have a clue about the performance.
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Ventilation again (power)
Hi all, I got my v70I (year 96) three years ago in December. short time Later (January) my fan got off and I quickly bought and installed one at Polar Parts. At that time I didn’t know this forum or vehicle parts Albert 😉 and it had to go fast because we had only one car. This year we have a second car (a 12 year old golf), whose heating keeps the windows free without any problems, while with my elk the heating has to run on full gas! I can’t imagine that this was so from the beginning! Can that be that the cheap fans also have less power?
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Automatic transmission – or the last secrets of a Volvo
As already announced a few days ago, I had the need to disassemble an automatic gearbox, more precisely an AW 50-42 completely to see what it looks like inside. One thing in advance: the gearbox was already defective before the disassembly, which hurt the loss – I still have one here anyway. Pictures say more than 1000 words, so see even photo 1 = the first look after opening the housing photo 2 = fast was the first wheel removed photo 3 = inside view of the remote wheel photo 4 = the plate wheel is removed photo 5 = plate wheel (back side) photo 6 = the often mentioned internal oil filter photo 7 = detailed view of the switch lock “P” photo 8 = planetary set of the secondary shaft photo 9 = the gear control box with the sensors photo 10 = the mechanical control panel photo 11 = brake housing photo 12 = one of the 4 brakes photo 13 = the so-called sun wheel photo 14 = the seat of the sun wheel photo 15 = all individual parts at a glance photo 16 = all individual parts at a glance (from the other side)
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Search Orginal Bose Facility Omega B Caravan
Hey guys, maybe one of you has the items flying around by chance. I am exactly looking for the sub and the amp in the “coffe room” so better said in the pages 😉 The small loudspeakers would be highlight, but are not absolutely necessary. Wire harnesses if needed would not be bad. But if not no thing, a thick plus line I get pulled 😉 Then hit the keys =)
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My car’s spinning
Hello I have a problem with my car. The following: If I want to leave in the morning, he sometimes does not accept gas. The engine sounds very funny. If I then want to drive backwards, the engine almost always runs out. Find it strange, but this is not every day. Then, however, what does not always happen, is that, for example, if I drive uphill, the engine strikes, even if I hit the accelerator pedal to the stop, more than 10km/h he doesn’t drive. If I have survived the mountain then it goes so reasonably again and he takes the gas again. Now again a new Macke, when I stand at a traffic light, then the car jerks, and the tacho always moves. It’s almost like when the car wants to drive on. Can’t describe it any other way. That’s such a real grow-up, notice correctly as the car goes up at the back. Have partly the feeling, as if the engine is cracking down. To the info, I did not do an E10) And the car can’t sound so good, but I can’t have a good look at it. But it’s old white.
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SLK R170 200 (without compressor) Light switch (A170 545 01 04) defective or other problem?
Hello again, I was unfortunately quite unsuccessful in my internet search. With me since yesterday evening the stand light does not go out when I put the light switch on “0”. I.e. stand light at the front; rear; license plate lighting; valve lighting lights and the car beeps when I open the door. Did then the battery clamped down accordingly, to deal with me more closely today. My first guess was a safety problem, but all fuses look so clean, so I removed the complete light switch. Then everything went out and also the beeping stopped. Does that mean for me that the light switch is actually defective, or can still provide something else for the problem? Can someone tell me which plug on the light switch is responsible for what? The second from right to picture 1 is in any case responsible for the warning tone and the valve lighting. PS: Another observation: When I have connected the battery again today at noon the stand light did not work directly again. Only when I activated the light switch, however, it did not go ahead of time.
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Purchase advice : Chevy Camaro, Opel Manta B or Ford Capri II/III
Hello Forum The driver’s license is quite fresh. Now (of course) the big question is what kind of car I buy. My budget is max. 1200€. I am Old/Youngtimer fan, so it should become one! My favorites are (in Mobile.de) : Chevy Camaro Ford Capri Other interests : Corvette C4 from 91, Chevy Camaro 3rd Gen, Porsche 944 S2 I would need now simply a recommendation which fits best. I am not very gifted in screwing but will try to work on it as much as possible. How are the maintenance costs ? Relatively low or ? I am fully aware of what it means to drive an old/youngtimer. Ps : I can’t use a 500€ golf for “doing” That’s it for now. Thanks in advance for the helpful answers.