Hello, I’m currently driving a Ford Focus MK3 limousine. Since I have a child, I realize that I need a bigger car. I drive about 15000 km per year, mainly long distances (300-1000 km at a time), therefore I need a car that is quieter than the Focus. If I’m driving with my wife, I can drive max 160 kmh, so performance doesn’t matter. It would be great if the car were easy to park. I almost decided on V60, but the trunk is d definitely too small. Audi A4 B8 is supposedly too loud from 140kmh Do you have better ideas? Budget max 20k. Gasoline.
Author: 00c12f
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Small car for 120km a day?
Good morning all together, for me the purchase of a car is coming soon. It will be my first own car. The car will be used almost exclusively for long distances (120km daily, of which 80km road and 40km highway). Originally I had hoped that a small or even small car would come into question, especially with regard to my budget of max. 12.00€. Since most of the models I looked at (e.g. VW Up, Citroën C1) but exclusively for the city Is there still a small car where you say that it is also suitable for longer distances (and does not swallow an above-average amount!) or do I have to go up a category and adjust my budget again if necessary? Priorities: – low purchase price (budget max. 12,000) – low consumption – safety – suitable for long distance (120 km of highway and highway daily) I look forward to your answers I love you very much!
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C4 Picasso 2017 – Display
My wife’s C4 has been in the yard since yesterday and I miss the display themes of the predecessor. Only some ads can be exchanged. I personally don’t like the animation at all. Is there a way to configure this via the data service? Greetings Tobias
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VW Amarok 2024: 22-inch rims ET20 with 20 mm track plates – experience and TÜV questions
Hello, I drive a VW Amarok year 2024 and have mounted 22-inch rims of La Chanti in the dimension 275/40 R22 with ET20. In addition, I have attached 50 mm fender widths per side, which currently still has 6 cm air between the rim and the widening. Now I’m thinking of installing 20 mm track plates per side, which would reduce the effective press-in depth to ET0. Does anyone have experience with a similar configuration? Free access of the wheels and the TÜV registration? Are there special features that I should consider?
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Residual exchange
Hello everybody, I’m new here and I want to know something about you. It’s about the following: On Friday morning I came to my car and found out that everything that is not rivet- and nail-resistant is stolen. They stole the front seats with seat heating, the steering wheel and my JVC radio from my 4 golf highline. In the process the lock was damaged and the cables were cut off in the interior. One day later, I got the call that my car is total damage, repair costs 5500,- Euro. The car fuzzi told me that on Monday an expert will determine the time value of the car, and then put the car in a residual value to determine the residual value. However, he already interpreted that this would be very high and I don’t have much to expect. (Sure, he’s sent the car, who took the car away. Unfortunately, couldn’t do anything else, as I have garage binding. The guy has a rather dubious backyard car company with tuning and repairing). To the question, if you could not do anything, he answered me, certainly do not want to deal with the insurance in court. Now my question: What can I do about it, should I draw a car expert and have a parallel report made? May the expert put my car in a stock exchange without my consent, or is there there s not a violation of personal rights? Greetings
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Repair release delay – do I sit on the cost?
Hello, I was involved in an accident three weeks ago, in which a teenager drove me into the car by bicycle. According to the police, the situation was “quite clear” because the teenager immediately admitted not to have looked (witnesses were also there). My car has been standing in the workshop for three weeks now, the workshop could also have started the repair immediately, but of course had to wait until she received the release of the opposing liability insurance. The damage is estimated at a little more than 3000 €, the repair time is set at 5 days. To date, the Alliance has still not granted approval and now also takes the view that I would only be entitled to a rental car for the duration of the repair. My question: Is that right? Neither I nor the workshop can do anything for the fact that in the last three weeks could not be repaired and on a car I was definitely interested in this time. Since I haven’t heard anything from the police/public prosecutor/court (???) in the last three weeks, I assume that the question of guilt has been resolved with the accident reception. Or is there anything else that can come up with and therefore the insurance may be in charge of the release? Should I turn on my insurance? The police had advised me and the mother of the causer of the accident (the mother is the insured person) that I should immediately take the opposing insurance. end what I did on the day of the accident. Thanks for the answers – unfortunately I have no idea about the issues and I’m just kind of mad.
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Accident management after total damage
Hi, because I’m new here and I didn’t find anything in the FAQ that fits my case, I opened a new thread. I hope that’s OK. I have the following problem and don’t want to be a lawyer, because this one will only cost me money and it’s definitely something to handle. About 4 months ago, a truck hit my car and broke something neatly. The workshop, to which I always drive, said: Without an expert, there is nothing more!” Then one of the DEKRA commissioned. He came in the same time and took pictures and made copies of the vehicle registration and the report of the police. Since both windows of the doors were broken, I got a rental car and agreed to the repair. The next day the master of the workshop called me and told me that car was actually a total damage, but only slightly above the value it would have. I don’t remember the expression that he used, but ic h could have the car repaired. I thought and asked for time to think and looked around for another car, but found the quick none. Then I agreed to the repair, but with the promise that it should not cost me a cent. I also got that in writing. My Elfriede, so it was called, was also repaired and everything was paid by the other insurance without any problems. Now I had the bad luck that I had a little more than 2 weeks ago with ice cream On the way from the stable to Haue I left the road and put Elfriede in the ditch. At the front right the whole axle, the bumper, fenders and something like that broke. Since I have no full insurance and the repair costs would blow up my budget, I sold Elfriede to a scrap dealer. Drive now again a Kangoo about Renaultleasing and am satisfied. But now comes the bad awakening. Had this morning a writing of the insurance in the letter she wants to have almost 1,000 Euros back from me, because I didn’t use my car for 6 months!!!!!! Can they do that and is the right one? I can’t do anything for the accident and the workshop guaranteed that I don’t have to pay a cent. Isn’t that their problem? Besides, the insurance had already paid everything! Why would they want money back then? Maybe someone can help me from you and give me advice. Ilona PS. Had read in other threads I don’t have that.
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Why is the insurance at Deutsche Allgemeine always the best?
So an example: DA – German General: 1,203,37 € 300 € / 150 € (UK / TK) KRAVAG-Allgem. Vers.: 1,461,99 € 300 € / 150 € (UK / TK) R+V: 1,603,99 € 300 € / 150 € (UK / TK) That’s almost always so – always the DA is significantly cheaper than others! Sometimes 50 Euro, sometimes 150€, sometimes 200€ etc. – no matter how much, always cheaper. Is there anything different than with others or are they really always cheaper?
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Ctek MXS 5.0 – How long do you have to charge until the battery is full?
Good day, I charge my car battery in my vehicle in built-in condition by means of my MXS 5,0. I am unsure if I have understood the operating instructions correctly and do this with the charging time correctly: I charge in the program AUTO until the level 7 green diode in battery symbol form lights. This can be achieved once after 5 hours, but today only after 2 hours after connecting the charging trench. The battery is today apparently already quickly full again, anyway had there The charging start was reached at 12.19 volts, charging end (level 7) was reached at measured 12.98 volts at the battery poles after disconnecting the charger. Levels 1 and 2 are processed immediately when switching on within a few seconds, level 3 takes less than one minute and stage 4 then, as today, just 2 hours or Sunday 5 hours. Level 5 has never been observed before, because too short and stage 7 lights up until i I will not leave the charger connected for hours. After the manual of the charger I read from it that the battery has reached 100% of the reachable capacity after the end of stage 4 and is then already fully charged. So the battery really should be fully charged! I wonder that after reaching level 7 when the charging trench is still connected a battery voltage of 13,5 volts, na I know that a higher voltage can be measured directly after the charging end.Two days later, however, I can only measure 12,3 or 12,19 volts. Does the actual charging only start when I reach level 7 and that I have to have the charger connected for a few hours? I understand the instructions so that level 7 is a charge maintenance level. Or deu am I wrong about the operating instructions?
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ChipTuning – Save fuel? (diesel)
Hello together… I would be interested to know if it is worth having your control unit adapted in the sense of fuel saving – which is mostly accompanied by more possible power… I currently consume 5.8litres per 100km with my 2.0CDTi in the Insignia and drive every month in about 3000km… What do you think about how much the consumption would improve with corresponding “tuning”? My driving profile 90% AB and 5% rural road and 5% city. Speed… mostly about 100km/h in the 6th Ga ng… Is there even any experience value?