Author: 00c12f

Hello Ford municipality Today I would like to announce my experience of 15000km so far with my newly acquired 2.0 TDCI 130ps tournament VIVAx. (So close to the facelift).So far there is only a positive report. Do not regret that I bought it again. However, a workshop stay was already necessary. In doing so the sky was changed. Because he had solved something at the tailgate, my fFH thought that a new one was necessary.(!?) My opinion would have been Furthermore, I couldn’t get the CD’s out of my SONY 6x changer any more. The dealer has the part “resetted” After that it worked again perfectly Now my question: How does it work? Positive is the hands-free device with Bluetooth and voice control on the part. Genial!! I also got a stainless steel loading guard edge from the current new Chia tournament from the dealer and glued it on myself. Very useful as the painted bumper nevertheless very scratch-sensitive is! The performance is absolutely sufficient. even without tuning my opinion. I was allowed to test a box tunnel before buying from an acquaintance at that time. I have now to my subjectively not much difference can determine. Conclusion: Except for the somewhat scratch-sensitive Pantherschwarzmetallic paint the car is absolutely recommended. Good driving performance, reasonable consumption, top air conditioning automatic, great equipment and my opinion after great appearance. So if an answer to m has a question?…. Greetings Andi

I recently bought a ford mondeo tournament 2,0i bj 99 and it’s following engine oil in Castrol GTX A1 TOPUP 5W-30 is this engine oil recommended? would castrol 0w-40better? or can someone recommend me a better one Besides, I wanted to know if it’s true that by a ceramic motor coating the fuel consumption is reduced and that the motor is running quieter and that the lifespan is longer, since it is supposed to reduce friction like for example ceramic power liquidhttp://w ww.qvc.de/…/frameset.asp?…

Hello, I have a question about the so-called solid-astane grease. As I understand it, the fuel mixture is “greased” in petrol engines if you fully penetrate the gas pedal. Do I see correctly that the fuel saving rule “always fully penetrated in high gear” is only partly true? I have also heard that at a certain speed the “full-astane grease” would reach. I don’t really understand a lot of this topic. What I can understand to some extent e was that the mixture is greased when the pedal is passed, in order to avoid overheating to the engine. However, that at the expense of the environment and the consumption? Are there no other possibilities for today’s engines? But what I don’t understand is why this grease would also grip at a certain speed. So this means not only paying attention to a maximum of 3/4 gas pedals in high gear, but also not to drive faster than XXX km/h? If so, where can I find out? n, at which speed is greased? And how do I know from which gas pedal position the same happens? Can someone explain me? PS: I drive a 99 Mondeo 1.6l combo and the consumption is decidedly too high. Above all I need on the highway partly more than in urban traffic. Overall I find the SPrit consumption of this box quite extreme, good 9 to 10 liters at 1.6 liters of cylinder capacity and with really lean 95 hp, that is compared to other cars j a partly embarrassing. What do you need a Mondeo with a bigger engine, the same year of construction, about as much as a Grand Cherokee with 400 hp?

Hi, my Scorpio is jerking at a constant speed (at 60 to 80 km/h). He does it in some cases, moreover, the speed drops to about 500 at a certain level and it is as if he wants to go out but then he still starts to adjust the speed independently to just over 1000. The spark plugs and the ignition coils were re-made about 1.5 months ago, because he didn’t start any more. But what probably only at a short circuit because of I could only imagine that it was due to the two ignition cables, or what do you say? LMM and probe in front of the throttle flap would be cleaned today without any result. The problem has occurred more often lately, especially uphill I would say. Was today at ATU the master looked at it but the demonstration effect stopped. He said petrol filter can be (almost) excluded. Would now tomorrow new ignition cables be fetched n and new candles, would like to take 4 or 5 pole from Beru or so has anyone experience with it? Ahja forgot to say that I read out the error memory and there was error no. P 0351 in it, I also had where the ignition cables had a short circuit, otherwise only errors that I produced myself because I let it run without LMM and so. Can anyone tell me the cost of the ignition cables? MfG Lobo

Hello I have a little problem. I drive a Mondeo tournament 1.6l BJ.93, drive this car for quite a long time and now the first (real) problems come and I don’t know what to do. 1: The car goes out in the cold condition.I drive a par meter and when I step the clutch the car goes out. Speed goes under 500, then it stutters and goes out, but then does not start immediately again but it takes a par second until it starts. n spoke to a Ford mechanic who then told me something about an oil pressure Ventiel, he probably knew the problem exactly.However, the repair would cost around 600€.Can this really be because of it, or can you fix it somehow differently? Before all cheaper! The engine runs otherwise TipTop, if it is warm! I have to say that the dare now, we have often driven with it on holiday, has already run almost 300000km. I made new TÜV and AU, have AU abe r only passed the second time.Why always, I have not changed.The values were too fatty. Is the engine ready? 2.The heating is no longer warm, thermostat has been replaced hoses are also hot only the heat exchanger not.Can that really be that of the calcified? or what can that be? I hope that anyone can help me here!!! Many greetings Raphael