moin, I need a few shots. to the situation we are a 5 person family with dog (labrador size) and all 3 children need still a whole while child seats. we have a car with passenger airbag, so child seat on the passenger seat is not allowed. with 3 kids on the back bench dog and kiwa in the suitcase room the car is quite irritated, luggage for the holiday pure, equals tetris and the seat lift of the child is already somewhere annoying in the course, before all if you go from one business to the next and can do that 5 times. now I have the following ideas and can’t decide what is best/most sensible/favorable: – sell a car and buy a 8 to 9 seat bus, a diesel, you could also take someone with you. however, the bus probably costs more in maintenance, should also be an older used one again. finding one with green badge should be difficult and expensive. and basically driving we are relatively rare all together, usually only I drive with the children or my husband alone to work e.g. – keep a car/buy other cheaper combi and additionally buy a small car for my husband, would perhaps not be much more expensive than the bus, because the small car does not consume so much when my husband is driving to work with it. in holiday you could then drive with two cars if necessary. – keep a car, invest money again in a gasanl age to avoid the expensive sprite prices and additionally buy a monthly subscription for the bus/railway here in the circle and thus have a fixed amount of costs in addition to the car. would mean, however, that I have to rumgurk with the children with the publicis, if we want to go to the zoo (where we drive at least once a week in the summer). the month subscription would cost 130€ in the month for me and the large (the small numbers do not yet pay) and would then apply to the entire tariff area. Well, I can’t really decide what would be the most useful thing. if we were to keep the car it would probably be good to retrofit the children’s back seat, so you would also know a possible 4th child, only for luggage there is no more space. and I would like to have the airbag away, but I would need an amature board from a volvo without a driver’s airbag.
Author: 00c12f
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What rims? Titan or Columba?
Hi guys, this time I don’t ask a question about a serious problem, but just an optical and taste question. I have 2 sets of rims to choose from for the summer, but I can’t quite decide which of the two I should buy new tires. It’s price-wise between the Columba (205/50 R16) and the Titan (205/45 R17) at the local tyre dealer about 20,- Euro per bike. Which rim would the forum drive? Please note that on the pictures still the rear impact ge and the side skirts are missing, so it also looks a bit weird Thanks for your opinion. mfg Frank
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V70 D5 Turbo hose (again a review)
Hello, now I can confirm it from my own experience: V70 D5, Bj 10/2001, approx. 75,000 km On a longer nightly motorway stage (Tempomat at approx. 180 km/h) a slightly hissing sound starts slowly. Disappears while taking the gas, well audible when accelerating or uphill. Perhaps some power loss (caviously noticeable). On a longer uphill track, speed already reduced anyway, display suddenly shows “motor maintenance required”. g over the mountain (just before midnight, still more than 100 km to sleep home, wife and baby) just don’t stay there now… error message disappears again, we come home well. Fortunately, because 1..2 hours baby screaming at night waiting for the breakdown service I could have really needed 😉 The next day in the friendly workshop. No discussion, turbo hose is immediately exchanged in Kulanz “yes, we know that already”. My tip to all with the same M odell (with the newer D5 starting about 2003 (?) the improved turbo hose should be mounted immediately from the factory): Before a larger journey let the hose be replaced better already precautionally… LG Helmut
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Precision of BC – Treasures Again in Criticism
Hej people! The lack of accuracy of the on-board computer was often a criticism point. Especially it concerned the average consumption. By and large, I had to detect occasional deviations, but which remained within the frame (deviation +/-0.2 liters at most compared to manual calculation). In winter, of course, due to the auxiliary heating, no exact measurement by BC was possible. I would like to neglect this situation here. The subsequent refueling in connection with my “Ultimate test” I had to find horribly that the BC shows a difference of +0.7 to -0.4 compared to the hand calculation. I find that quite wrong! Now my question. What concrete experiences regarding the deviation BC/hand calculation could you find so far?
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V70 II D5, 163 HP, cylinder head gasket defective? How to detect?
Hello Volvo community! Now it might have caught my V70 II D5, 163 HP (376ts KM): The car loses strongly on (short) AB drive coolant. Does it have to be the head seal or even a hair crack in/at the block? The car does not smoke white and does not have any mud deposits when I open the engine oil cover. There are also no puddles or the like under the car to recognize. Are there also other causes/damages than the described above? So Kopfd I have read about a CO test in the cooling liquid tank. Are there other ways to verify this? And if one of the two cases really happened, what would be useful to change/change everything next to ZR & WaPu? Thank you! LG, Max
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850: Trouble and no end
Hello, our car was fitted with a used automatic transmission at the Volvo partner this winter, after I was stranded with gear damage. Yesterday then the key experience: With every gear change there was no jerk, but blows, whereby the car shook under strong vibrations. That got better then with the time, but it did not disappear. After the work arrived at home, the same thing: stopped, driving stage R inserted, *Rums* and the car rüt If I should stay down again, the Volvo will finally fly out with us. Greetings 850 Limo
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Clutch or gearbox makes uneven cracking noises what now.
Hello, I have a question, I have an S60, 2,5T, first time 19.02.2007, with 200,000Km on the clock. Engine B5254T2, transmission is M56. Fin. YV1RS595272633219 My problem is that my Volvo makes cracking noises, in idle as when driving. The cracking is the loudest in the area between engine and transmission. The noises are unevenly moderate, clutch kicking will make cracking quieter, or not, and when I drive, sometimes quite away, then there again, sometimes very loud, sometimes quiet. Clutch has never been changed. I have drained the gear oil, and there are metal chips to be seen. (gear oil changed two years ago) without chips. How do you best proceed? What do you do when it is gear? I am happy about every answer. Greeting from Hamburg Jürgen
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Motor Ruckelt
hello, have the following problem: With my Volvo the engine is jerking, like small flammable shutters. it then pulls off shortly before three thousand turns. with me, however, it is in gas operation and in gasoline operation. my car is a volvo v70 with a day 300. the car has 228tkm and the gas system about 78tkm. where is it best to start looking for the error? many thanks in advance greeting carpeflexus
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The wheel bearings are cheap because they cost a fortune ;-(
I am now looking for reasonable, but also realistic in price – affordable wheel bearings.. What I have learned so far is hard to believe. How can it be that I should sheet 170 Euro for a VA wheel bearing. These are indeed from FAG, but it has to be even more cost-effective?! Or not? Are they first invented, then drawn and carved?. Greetings
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2 kl. problems. Or is that normal?
Hi, when I start my C70 T5 automatic Bj98, the speed speeds up to about 1400 rpm. No matter if the engine is cold or warm. Time problem, which bothers me very much, after the start the blower motor turns on two times briefly. Have automatic climate control. Even if the slider, is stepless, is short right of zero. Is that normal? Greeting Mark