@all, It runs through the whole forum… again and again questions Pro/Contra Ebay parts. The screwdrivers are annoyed, the mischievous generation is proud of the supposed bargains and everything hacks together… To defuse this story a little bit and to deliver a perhaps CONSTRUCTIVE post on the topic: Maybe it is possible to order by important assemblies, the quality manufactures which were installed in the Omi, to name according to the supply list form In this way, everyone knows which assembly he can play with “Billig – Plagiarism” and where he prefers to leave it. In addition, perhaps one or the other user also recognizes what the dealer/the workshop installs to him. How do I know as a normal driver without great screwdriver experience, what was installed in the Omi in the series? A corresponding list would be very helpful in the evaluation of the replacement / spare part. It would be equally helpful, since the Omi now also got weak parts from the factory to call here good alternatives. However, I do not know whether the forum here allows. Is not to be understood as a “black list” but as a description of what was installed in the Omi… (well, with small tips) Could be led as a “synthetic list”.
Author: 00c12f
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Cylinder head seal Audi 80 ABK
Hello, with my B4 with ABK engine, oil has been coming out slightly on the side of the cylinder head gasket for 1 year (so-called “sweat”, but this has increased recently, so that I think it would be better to change the cylinder head gasket in the near future, after all, he has now almost 150,000 km on the hump with the 1st gasket. Have looked around me a bit on the internet, from time to time the talk of planning the head is a bit surprising. In the original Audi bases like The self-mach books do not talk about this, but just the indication that the flatness has to be checked and that it has to be planned in case of delay of more than 0.1 mm. This seems logical to me – as long as the head was not overheated and was dressed according to the specification, there should be no or only delay within the tolerance. How do you see this? Background: I have heard many bad stories about cylinder head seal change in free workshops (obviously misdressed and undressed). The problem with Audi/VW is the horrendous hourly rates (about 85 Eur in the Stuttgart region), so it can happen back again that after such a vital repair a salted bill follows. Would you at the same time replace the valve shaft seals at the same time? Many greetings, Alex
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Central locking no longer works
Hello you guys out there, maybe one of you had some advice for me I was shopping yesterday, and I parked my car in the parking lot. I could lock it up quite normally. When I wanted to put the shopping in the car, the central lock didn’t open 🙁 add that I can’t get the trunk on either. Can someone help me? Somehow I have to get the car from the parking lot because I’m dependent on the car 🙁 lg and a lot of Thanks already in advance
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Standard tire sizes for Agila A?
Hello, where can I find information about standard approved tyre and rim sizes for my Agila A, year 2002? In the case of a Corsa (year 98), I was able to find out in the old vehicle letter which sizes are permitted. With the successor system (certificate of approval I and II) this was abolished. Stutzig makes me that I can read here TÜV – tyre sizes on pages 9 and 10 though sizes: 155/65 R14 75T ( 4 1⁄2 J x 14 – steel rims?) 165/60 R14 75T (Alu rims?) In this case 165/70 R14 81T there are actually only two possibilities: either it is another approved size (which I find nowhere), or the size is not permitted, and the TÜV has let the previous owner go through it (they may not even have looked at it). However, I would like to know if I can find reliable information somewhere. or is it actually only the two in the TÜV document?
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Opel Agila A, F12 transmission from 2003, bore for the speed sensor
This topic has already been mentioned here in the forum. It is about the compatibility of the installed transmissions. In particular the missing bore for the speed sensor from 2003. I bought an Agila year 2001 cheaply and would like to work it up as a replacement vehicle for my current Agila. My “Erstagila” is built in 2000, first possession. He has now 195,000 KM almost without repairs. It was once due a water pump. Otherwise he has oil change The clutch and the gearbox are still original. The “New Agila” probably has 110000 KM behind it. Now to my concerns: A replacement gearbox was installed. I compared the number and determined the year 2003. These are the gearboxes, where the hole to the speed sensor is “infused”! I had no idea about that at first. The speedometer was not working, probably the revometer. A “replacement speedometer” was located at the rear. In the trunk. A complaint with the seller is not possible for various reasons. The purchase price was cheap with 230 euros. I controlled the cables and was initially pleased to find a corresponding for the speed sensor. The speed sensor was missing. So I bought a new one and wanted to install it today. Unfortunately, did not fold, as bore to…. Has someone drilled up this shed to retrofit the speed sensor? How much material do you have to drill through? What is the problem? This is a stupid question at first… unless there is a way to drill without chips. I imagine that the chips will be sucked off again and again while drilling. Maybe it’s better to grind? Or is there another simple option? So without drilling. Maybe with another wiring? With the vehicles starting in 2003, the speed should be tapped via the ABS sensor. Only where? Is the old bore? Is it possible to upgrade Agilas by mid-2003? My Agila also has ABS.
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Z10XEP, engine doesn’t start from today to tomorrow
My Agila, year 03 no longer starts. Opel scanner shows no error. Starter and battery ok. Tank is full. Specialist workshop checked the engine and says that the steering times are no longer right. It is assumed that the chain has skipped. Repair is supposed to cost between 600-800€. The Agila is worth about 1000€. The hydropumps also make light noises. The chain was completely replaced 4 years ago at 90 tkm. As it has also raced. Now the Agila 160tkm d How can a chain skip so easily? How does the ignition device work? Could it also have other reasons? Is the repair still worth it? Tires, shock absorbers and crossbars were made only Tüv 04/20. Looking forward to the answers!
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Agila A 1.2 Bj 08/2003 Steering wheel twisted
Moin together, I am the Olli. I recently got above mentioned Agila very cheaply and decided to save it from the press. The purchase price is probably again to parts pure but most of it I can do myself. To my concern. I do not know the type of steering yet. Seems to be electronically controlled. My steering wheel is about 1/5 or tick more twisted to the left, but drives straight ahead. When braking it does not pull away sideways, remains clean in the track. The steering also clacks very loudly at full impact as if a gear is skipping. But I can still drive, only because of this I am even more careful in curves. Where can I best start troubleshooting? Tires are ok, no one-sided wear. Wheel bearings are also without play. Can anyone help me? Greetings
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Central locking: lock on driver’s side causes problems
Hello together, two weeks ago I had three problems in one topic, and no one answered it. So now a new run with only one of the three points: The lock on the driver’s side behaves “locky” – at least in relation to the central locking. I have to open and close several times before it starts and also open the other doors (sometimes richg often: between 10 and 15 times). In any case, it can be felt that the key doesn’t really turn clean. For comparison: There are no problems on the passenger side, and the ZV works perfectly.So what could be defective?Note: Having looked around the internet, I am almost afraid that the cause can be found in the locking cylinder itself. Whether it can be repaired at all or it has to be replaced altogether is the big question …
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Distance to the desired car 600km, how best to proceed ?
Hello together, so the following: I found a car, the car is located at 600 km distance. I have no idea of the registration/deregistration/short-term registration I ask for help here because I got to hear various statements in the circle of acquaintances. I would like to test the car and then take it with me immediately. Also I would give my current car in payment (prices have already been discussed, new car is reserved…) How do I go now best before ? I dach and then ? Is there a possibility that the dealer will get me a short-term registration mark in advance, with my authorization and my EVN number of insurance, if I do not take the car I would of course pay for the costs. Is that so usual, can you do it ? Here I can not register him yet because I do not have a vehicle letter, right ? How does that work with the A banmeldung ? Do I have to make that or make that then the dealer without my bite ? Possibility 1: I send the dealer the authorization for the short-term registration mark, and the EVN number of my insurance, then I do the test drive, pay and drive home with the new car and register it here at my place of residence. The seller registers my current “old” car and that was it. Possibility 2: I arrive at the dealer at 9 am, drive together with him to the registration office and We report that car to me, and my old one. Can I then register in another Bundeland directly that car, at best so that I can even keep my old license plate and mount it on the new car? Then drive home with a new car with old license plates. Are there any other “simpleer” options? I look forward to your answers. Thank you very much.
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GrandlandX Bj21 Controller Error Warranty
in our bumpy purchase of the used car GrandlandX Hybrid Bj.21 was before the car transfer still errors in the error memory of the controller. Auto dealer Neff was not able to fix these. Now we have brought the car for inventory and small defects repair to Auto dealership in our vicinity and this could first on guarantee put the small things in order. [error memory was set back] –> but we still have error information in the controller In how far are Also these errors are covered by a manufacturer’s warranty? (especially when the first half of the year has elapsed soon) Sounds guaranteed quite great the Opel here 5 years special super warranty promote; but the truth is mostly in the detail. My main problem is that the errors can mean “everything” or just “nothing”: and if a gross error develops what much money should cost at some point: can the cause be circled on such errors? B1003 ECU Functional malfunction U1FA0 Control unit Functional malfunction U1208 Invalid data received from the control unit Engine; performance – signal invalid Opel parent company takes “no position” on this, although this is now all documented by the inventory of the car dealership in my surroundings.