Good tomorrow’s forum community. I’m in a kind of mess. In our household are an 11 year old Seat Altea Freetrac 170 Diesel-PS and an 18 year old VW Polo with 60 petrol -PS. Both have about 168,000 km. We would like to buy at least one new one. Are to consider whether it should not be a factory newer. Because there is still a guarantee and no repair costs. It should be a Suv with four wheel, because we need 4×4. I think, since I have a used also financial I can also buy a new one, which I return shortly before the warranty expires. Leasing is cheap at the moment, only horrors me possible follow-up costs at the return. In addition we have eon little child and whether we can give the car back 100% so is questionable. I heard and also read that financing would be better. There you can give the car back too. Now I have a few questions. Must, if you return the car the closing rate paid we rden? What about the deposit at the next vehicle. Will the first vehicle be charged? A (VW) dealer explained to me years ago that the vehicle can be financed up to the final rate. Then either pay the rate, continue to finance or fetch new ones. If that were so, I would tend to lower the rates for a higher final rate. Is it also true that if you can get financed higher discounts? Every dealer says something different, just to sell his vehicles. Ahja and another question. Does this happen with EU vehicles exactly like this? Thank you in advance Greeting Christian
Author: 00c12f
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Audi Fleet necessary?
Hello, with a new car leasing 2 years 15,000km/year, would you recommend Audi Fleet? Extra charge would be 30 euros per month. If I understand this correctly, covers “Fleet” inspections including material? But with a new car I don’t need an inspection?
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Vespa LX 50 4T No power with warm engine
Hello, my Vespa LX 50 4T (approx. 6.000km) has the following problem: If the engine is at operating temperature, e.g. after 5 km drive, you can notice a significant loss of power. On the straight line the Vespa reaches the top speed, but as soon as a bigger climb comes, you almost stop. At a place where I can easily get up with a cold engine with approx. 25-30 km/h, it reaches with a warm engine only a maximum of 5-10 km/h. Idle is then very unstable, so that you always have to keep the engine at a bit of speed so that it doesn’t go off. Other information that might be helpful: When starting the engine, you have to press the gas train a little bit, but then jump it immediately on the first attempt. If ma wouldn’t give a gas, it doesn’t start so easily. Is this normal? Valve game has already been set, the cold has been started. start somewhat improved, but nothing at the problem power loss improved with warm engine. Complete service with oil change, air filter, spark plug was carried out, but also here no improvements. Carburettor removed and cleaned, carburettor re-set. Also here no improvement. My first suspicion was with E-Choke, which is why I removed it and connected it to 12V. After one to two minutes the piston was then clearly out. That’s why it seems where Would be great if you could help me further 🙂 In the appendix you see a picture of the spark plug. In my opinion it looks too dark.
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Gabelholm leaks
Hello together, the Gabelholm left of my sportster Bj. 95 is leaking for some time. The oil presses up from the Simmering. How long can you still drive there. What does a repair cost? Thank you for information Greetings to All
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Scooter Exhaust Question
Moin Leude, I am quite fresh here and have a question in the hope that one can help me. I have throttled an Explorer Iron 50 from ATU 50ccm to 25 km/h (electronically) and have bought a exhaust system from Leovince Handmade TT. According to the salesman, this exhaust is compatible with my copy. Anyway, I noticed on my original that there is a kind of hose leading to the exhaust and apparently has a function to fulfil. euen exhaust clamp, however, it is not possible, since there is no connection on my new exhaust as on the original. Take a look at the attached pictures and maybe you know what it is, whether it is important and how or whether I can even mount my new exhaust on my scooter. Thank you very much.
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Rubber in the chassis
Good evening together, I don’t think I had asked that yet, but the other day I got a book about racing suspensions, which says that racing cars don’t have rubber in the chassis. In the case of road cars, between bolts and eyelets, the handlebars are lubricating agents (captivated by a rubber cuff) and a layer of rubber or polyurethane. I thought it was a bending joint. Lubricants push themselves in the long run, and must be re-verted by the wide movement of the suspension. Polyurethane could be a little feathers there. So if you drive quietly over a smooth road. At the first pothole then the Hafabreibung breaks off and perhaps some polyurethane out (wear). Or is it only about dirty hauschdammung without any synergy? I still dream of the wear-free suspension. I like the bending joints in the F1 and the these mirrored leaf springs in carriages. With such a full-fledged chassis with Stabi and Lenkun g there are so many joints. The interlocking rear axle is a real ray of light. Do you also like the leafed headdresses with 2 joints per spring and the 5 handlebars rear axles? And then I read a patent, where someone proposes a ball-bearing ball joint. But that’s not really true, is it? On the 2 wheel the steering axles are ball-bearing. I would like to have such a light-winged steering on the 4 wheel. Does this have any car? MfG Arne
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All-wheel on brake dynamometer
Hello guys! I drive a 1990s Toyota Celica 4WD, with permanent all-wheel drive, distribution gearbox with Visco clutch, 50/50% power distribution. Here more precisely: http://gtfour.ch/…/prozessue.php?… Was last on the brake test bench, the car stood with the front axle in the test bench, the rear axle stood on gravel (was outdoors). When the wheels set in motion, the standing rear axle did not move any mm as if it would not be driven. Then as the rear axle at the test The test bench didn’t turn very fast, it didn’t last long. Furthermore, the tester said that the cars can’t handle this and that they can’t turn to the opposite direction, because that’s how it works. If my car was standing the same way, there was no reaction at the VA. Well, the question: how does it work? According to the tester, his test bench wheels are rotating at the same time, but I’m not sure that you would see that at the brake values, the brake does not brake equally well in both directions?!? I can turn the cardan shaft very slowly with a lot of power without the front wheels wanting to turn. I don’t get it somehow, how does it work? Is this drive really permanent? Can something be broken there, can I check something? Can the cover-free visco coupler (actually lock) be broken or worn out? How can I control this? Please for help, Mfg Chris
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Rear windscreen wiper does not work – how to repair?
Recently my four-year-old daughter was first on the car and hung on the rear windscreen wiper of our Honda Stream. Since then it doesn’t work. I tried to unscrew it, but I don’t get so far: When cover and screw are removed, everything is so tight that I don’t get it nudged. I’ve already used so much force that I was afraid of damage. What can be broken here and how do I go? The engine obviously gets electricity. Sometimes it wipes about a e quarter turn. The whole rod is attacked by rust and I wanted to put it on trial…maybe the current non-function is not my daughter’s fault after all. Lieb Gruss Oli
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Driving at minus 30 degrees – Spikes
Hello, I would like to know if you can still drive a Super 95 car at minus 30 degrees? Do you always have to stay on a vehicle like this? 1.) Can you turn spikes into a car tire yourself? 2.) How fast can you drive there? 3.) Are spikes better than snow chains? 4.) Should you put spikes on all 4 wheels? 5.) How much spikes are required per bike? 6.) Where do you place them best? 7.) Are there certain tires or brands? 8.) Are there different spikes, which s Should you use it? 9.) Is there a tool for this?
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Peugeot Speedfight 3 has no performance
Hello, you really need your help. I bought the days for my son, who will soon be 15, a 2012 speedfight 3, water cooled, with just 2600km, to 25kmh. On the test trip more immediately fell on that the scooter had no power at all and I barely got away from the spot, the salesman meant this is the throttle ring because he was throttled to 25 and thus the performance is missing. I said no, the performance has to be there, just not so fast. He also meant that the scooter had been standing for 5 months, I thought of a dirty forget, yes and I can clean it. Priced agreed and now he has been standing with me for a few days. I completely disassembled the carburettor and the lf, externally full with fine sand, also the lf, totally dirty. I checked the cold start automatic and worked perfectly. Previously everything was built together, 5 times emptied and the scooter ran again…….in the gas give unfortunately still zero lei I thought, maybe the scooter didn’t have any compression because almost or no oil was in the tank???? we then removed the throttle ring, yes what should I say? The scooter had power and accelerated it to 50 (must brake), but I think there must be more at the acceleration. Back to the throttle ring. Is that really normal that the throttle swallows so much power? That would be really dangerous then, people, I don’t come from the spot with the throttle ring. did I come in, what do you think, is it possible to mix it up? If yes, how do I do it? Someone else idea what it can be? I had read the exhaust, too. Lost weights, if something like that goes on? No idea anymore, because, your help is asked 🙂