Soohoo, forum, answers found. But I am still unsure. Therefore the following situation + question. Air conditioning got its service and also a new filling. Cooling performance is nevertheless only “lo” satisfactory. Self check showed zero errors. In the last half-cold winter I was looking forward to a Nordic heating. Pustekuchen. Laue’s ventilation, but “hot” for my temperature feeling it did not come out of the nozzles despite “hi” position. normal range and I haven’t got it in the red up to now. Manual control of the fan speed also works. Furthermore, occasionally the windows are covered, both in cold and warm weather. Does my control unit n shot or with which other spare parts order can I please the Saabothekers?
Author: 00c12f
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Difference – Push-off and Pops & Bangs
Hello, can anyone tell me the difference between “disconnection” and “pops & bangs”? I looked up a chip tuner’s website and it says:Disconnection, DPF/OPF OFF, AdBlue OFF, Pop & Bang, Power Measurement, Eco Tuning etc. Aren’t “disconnection” and “pops & bangs” the same? Or am I wrong?
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Total engine damage after 30,000km
I’ve already read a lot about the blessings of the new, completely revised 2.0 turbodiesel and would like to contribute another episode: We were surprisingly stranded with our 2018 motorhome at the end of April: Rugging while giving gas, then only power up to 60 kmh, after a short distance it went down to Vmax of 20 kmh. No smoke, no interference, but bubbles in the cooling liquid tank when giving gas. Towed and the workshop said: injector defective. Then ha It took them 1.5 weeks to separate this from the engine block without any accident; it was totally coked. So today the rescue call: Injector is out – but pistons are shot. After 30,000km, with absolutely moderate driving mode (Vmax=100 kmh) and 4 times oil change within the period. Just as I read this, a total damage at this mileage seems to be nothing unusual. The repair workshop far from home calls for the installation of a replacement engine about 9000 EUR. Ford in the village says 10,000 EUR PLUS. The first repairer offers its services for 8000 EUR. EVERYONE I called said “Oh, we know that!”. Apart from the fact that I could constantly beat my head against the wall about this, the question remains: What to do? And (I hardly dare to ask) there may be any more cost-effective alternatives – apart from the big press?
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Transit Custom 2.2 TDCI DPF Regeneration not possible
Servus, have the problem with our Ford Transit Custom 2.2 TDCI that the MKL lights up. I read out the error with our Hella Gutmann device: 2 Errors: Glow plug Cylinder 3 particle filters full wanted now regeneria, for which the tester wants 80°C temperature. However, this temperature does not get despite highway full gas. The pointer in the cluster instrument had its 90°C on the highway. When standing at the red traffic light the termperature then went down again to approx. 60°C. What is with me k aputt, resp. what is to be done? Is it the thermostat, whereby I think the control the pointer in the instrument cluster, therefore it seems ok. My mistake is apparently the one defective temperature sensor that reports a wrong value to the diagnostic device.
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Cold start rattling noise Renault Megane II 1.6 16V Grandtour Automatic Jg. 2006
Hello people When the car has stood overnight (low garage) and I start it for the first time, I have this loudly clacking greaves, but that also stops immediately. But it’s not always like that. Sometimes he doesn’t do the “noise” either. From there I can turn it off and leave it again without any unpleasant noise. Even if I park it somewhere, it takes more than 8-10 hours (that’s exactly how I didn’t stop the time) until it’s like that again. But just: Not always. Sometimes ka If I leave the car for two days and it starts like an ONE. As you can see in the video, it doesn’t run restlessly, it doesn’t “wag” or “waggle”. Also, the sound doesn’t exist for so long. So I actually exclude that it doesn’t run on all cylinders. You don’t listen to it here, but when you sit inside I feel it comes more from the right side (seen in the direction of driving). Surrendering before the start comes from the throttle. But it works perfectly. So there’s no problem there. I uploaded a video from the engine start to Youtube:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJQPDkW9aCU Thank you for every tip Mitch
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Purchase advice 750i F01
Hello all, what do you basically say about this car: Basic data – BMW 750i – 180.000 km – Year of construction 06/2009 – 19.750 Euro – technically good – optically ok, with some signs of wear Special equipment – Rearview camera – Sideview – Navi Professional – Dyanmic Drive – Soft-Close – Standing heater I am very grateful for any comments about the vehicle, price, possible flaws etc..
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640d purchase: what to consider, what are your experiences?
After the diesel-bash seems to take off (you probably don’t dare to drive), I tend to go back to the 640d convertible from 2012 onwards. Although the 650i would be nice, purely from the sound alone, it is currently not affordable (from 2013 onwards with the engine-facelift on 448hp). Furthermore, the injector-defect messages, which you can read many times, scare me. How about 640d (which should not be inferior to the 650i from the passage), what should be taken into account when buying (max. Speed 70tkm)? Thank you GGA
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Backlash damage!
hi gemeinde! I posted here about a year ago already because of my backward passage! meanwhile ises unfortunately so far that I almost no longer get it inserted! and if then rather by chance and with very unpleasant and grim noise the trick to insert the Rgang still while rolling forward unfortunately by now also does not work anymore. back then was the talk of synchonringen if I remember correctly… but somehow does not entirely open up to me why a R should be synchronized??? what can be the reason for the heavy backstage? possibly the lock? the car is the bj. 95er 2.0lpt, 5 gear shift with FM gear! I’m excited about your contributions and sure that you won’t disappoint me this time either!
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Engine damage ???? Help
Our Vectra B EZ96 16i 75PS runs only on 3 cylinders. Ignition plugs, ignition cables, ignition sparks …. are ok KM stand 159000 errors occurred while driving with still quite cold engine. The 4th cylinder does not react if you pull off the ignition cable in case of stationary gas. Engine control does not light up. Please someone may know. Thanks in advance
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Peugot Satelis 125 Bj 2007
Hello everyone, I need your help. My Peugot Satelis 125 broke the charge controller. I’ve already searched the Internet but found nothing useful. My questions now: 1. Where is the charge controller? 2. How to get it best? 3. Which controller would you recommend? Thank you for your help.