Hi, my very much has given me today the manual of his XC90 demonstration car. And then I happen to hit the page about WHIPS and see that I have been driving my tool/installation case wrongly with me for years: behind the front seat – and there it blocks WHIPS! – Do you have suggestions for accommodation/securing in the trunk? – Does the XC90 actually have built-in belts (doesn’t believe)? – What is to hold from a net above the ground under which you push the case (does anyone have such a thing? from where?) – Or should I stay cross-crossed with my good old 2 rubber drops? I would be happy about your ideas and experiences! Greeting Jürgen actually happy that he is forced to put the thing in the trunk as he has always cut macks into the rear door panel with it.
Author: 00c12f
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Winter rides -> 20 degrees fluctuating water temperature with warm engine
Hi, I have the “phenomenon” with my Smart 451 mhd, i.e. the petrol engine. He got a new engine (now run 3,000 km) and I used Geizhal’s old thermostat again. From time to time I log the water temperature with an app via Bluetooth on the mobile phone. I read the data directly at the temperature sensor during the ride, because the Smart has no water temperature indicator. The water temperature fluctuates between 90 and 70 degrees on these cold days at short notice. So the thermostat works, but the temperature fluctuation is already high, if this drops by 20 degrees and then rises again. It is a constant temperature fluctuation in the motor-side small cooling circuit. . It is just the question whether the overall system with such a small engine behaves technically due to that. Large water quantity, small engine, fast thermostat opening and probably too much opening path of the thermostat per degree of temperature change. Could it possibly be a misinterpretation of the desktop developer? I have no similar observations?
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SLK R172 Switch to Osram LED H7
Hello community, I have just recently installed the above-mentioned pears on my C-Class. One side runs clean from the beginning, the other had the flickering, so that I have installed the Canbus adapter there. Since then everything has been running impeccable. Now I think about the whole thing for the SLK, which however I only move in the best weather and rarely in the dark. The consideration is quite pragmatic: Is it easy to install it, then I do it. Will it be cumbersome, then stop. 😉 The SLK I have not yet so long, so that I only know so far that one has a kind of maintenance flap in the wheel box to come to the pear. Does someone have short experience values or even one, two pictures of a lamp exchange, so that one can estimate the whole thing something? Are there experiences, whether there also a flicker occurs there (after release list actually no Canbusdapapter is needed, but in the C-Class it was allegedly not useful and yet as a solution in the result. And if I want to thank this small box in the SLK would not want to build it up again? unfortunately. I also have to have to have to have to keep up again.
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SLK BAS/ESP burn permanently
For months BAS and ESP have been shining permanently No workshop wants this repair? Say I should drive with it Does someone in Hamburg know a workshop that repairs this? Thanks for the answer
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SLK 200K as first car
Good evening, I am playing with the idea of buying my car as a first car. Specifically, it is this offer:https://link.mobile.de/eAraBmrytFSRSsFq7 The car has 220.000km and according to the dealer is conditionally maintained checkbook. Visually it is in good condition in my view. I think the car is quite nice and relatively little “sucked out” for this year of construction. Of course, I am an absolute used car newcomer, but try to inform me as well as possible before. Of course, one has to reckon with a few problems here and there but at the moment I have about 2000 euros per month available and would of course also invest some euros of it. Since it is a first car, it should still not be too expensive, even if theoretically more investment than 3000 euros would be possible, therefore such an old car would be possible. Service is of course so much a matter with Mercedes, but the general maintenance here probably should not cost a kidney.
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New Laguna III car
Hello, I am currently driving a Laguna III Grandtour Dynamique 2.0 dCi, which I leased for 4 years. In August the four years are over and I have to look around for a new car. Since I had no problems with the car and I still liked it, I would consider a new leasing for 36 months. Again Grandtour with 2 ltr Diesel as Bose Edition. How is the situation at the moment during price negotiations? My present was at that time very cheap and only about 20 €/month expensive as an average megane. How does this stand out today? Must Renault at the time still offer favorable conditions to “lose” the Laguna? Since my dealer also has Nissan and Dacia in the program, would be alternatives (for me): an equivalent equipped Nissan Qashqai +2 or a Dacia Duster Delsey.
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New big man finally there…
XC90 finally there / Inscription… Hello together ! After several long months waiting I was able to pick up my XC90 D5 yesterday at the friendly one! Since I never work with anything without problems I still drive with “yellow” license plates, because Volvo sent the letter too late … But tomorrow will do everything. So, my first impression: class ! – new engine very smooth – new Geartronic considerably better, switches no more “hard” as the old – very good noise insulation in the interior and: – the car is far too big for my underground garage …!!! Yesterday it took 15 minutes to place the big one there. And I say: I can drive a car and also park. Unfortunately our underground garage is very narrowly built and for such vehicles not designed. Through the stepping boards the car on each side becomes again 10cm wider, thus the entry becomes a real millimeter work. PDC front and rear have beepept at the same time… But I will continue to practice and then we will look… Now however a photo of the new one!
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Engine goes off in stand and sporadically no power
Hello together… I’ve been having an annoying problem for a few weeks now. And when I’m on the road normally, my V40 has some sporadically the problem that it suddenly goes off when I’m idle. BUT as long as I’m roll and over 30 kmh it stays on. Only below it goes out, I say, while driving the clutch, it goes quietly into idle. If I come to a traffic light and brake then it goes from so below about 30 kmh. Strangely I know that I also noticed that if he has his “phase”, he also has no more power… Ich möglich das möglich? So rattern does the thing now for more than a year… Actually only in idle run… The noise is a bit more irregular in the last time and partly it has to do with the variable camshaft adjustment.
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Volvo v40 phase I
Hello. I am thinking about whether I am electric window lifter and electr. Adjustable mirrors retrofit. Does anyone know if the cables or plugs are already in place for this? Have the v40 bj.96 1.8 petrol 16v. Thanks Greeting
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Volvo S40 T4 -strange sounds from the engine
Hello, can anyone tell me what’s wrong with the engine.https://youtu.be/NX-cETm5-NI I’ve been to the Volvo dealership twice, but they couldn’t really tell me where this “blechner” noise comes from. The clutch excluded them. The defective camshaft sounds somehow different? This noise is also not regularly/permanent to hear. Otherwise, you don’t notice anything about it when driving. No error is shown either. I’m really desperate.