hi hab ma ne question is the normal that ne rs open only 130 packs oda is there still something throbbed then,I know that of nen friend who has one who was faster and has also turned to 12000 fast his turns from 8000 fully slow up to 11000 ??
Author: 00c12f
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Allow Yam DT 80 as a motorcycle – how?
Hello, I have changed the original seat on my DT 80 for a longer one, in order to be able to allow it as a motorcycle. That is possible I have been confirmed by Yamaha, moreover it is also in the repair manual, which is however already 15 years or so old. I also have a part report for the longer pinion, and thus had a Tüv acceptance made. Afterwards I am to the registration office to register the DT, however, there they tell me that this is not possible As it is a lightweight motorcycle and cannot be registered as a motorcycle, the increase of the top speed as documented by the Tüv-certificate would not help, as it is still an LKR at 92 km/h. As a result, I am back to Tüv today, in order to register in the report that the DT with 92 km/h can be registered as a motorcycle, as described in the manual. However, the Tüv-man did not want to enter this for me, as in the part report worded How do I still get the DT approved as a motorcycle, what do I have to do? Or are they right at the registration office? I’m pretty sure it’s possible, since I have already read it on the internet several times and have also been confirmed by Yamaha…. Thanks schonmal, Mfg. Comerz
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Heating for older cars
Hello! I’m looking for some advice on the topic of heaters. I’m thinking about retrofitting a heater in my somewhat older Astra (about 7 years, I hope for another min. 5 years). How are the experiences regarding the durability of modern heaters? !!!Background and main consideration: Would it be an option to “move” the heater into a new car after a few years? !!! What should you look for when choosing? Manufacturer-specific strengths/weaknesses? Thanks already And greetings, BB
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Please help: Kia Carnival II 2.9 CRDi can only be towed or started with start aid.
Hello together, after 10 years with our KIA Carnival I am now the first time so far that I need the support of a forum. I have managed all problems and errors so far together with friends hobby screwdrivers, but I fear this could go wrong. I try to describe the whole as fully as possible and therefore add this post to:1. Type of car: 1.1. Kia 1.2. Carnival 2 1.3. 2.9 l CRDi manual transmission 1.4. BJ 20042. Kurzbe Description of the error: 2.1. Engine starts only when the vehicle is towed or when you spray the start aid into the suction nozzle. 2.2. Engine warning light is constant. 2.3. Engine runs constantly in idle mode, but generates stronger vibrations than usual.3. Vehicle, error and repair history: 3.1. Purchased 2006 with 0 km as vehicle with daily registration 3.2. Common problems (wheel bearing, rust, battery ), but overall a faithful train horse and a great family carriage 3.3. 3.4. Defects alternator, starter, cooler, heating pipes, multiple handbrake cable changes in the years after. 3.5. Starting at the end of 2014, the engine warning light starts from time to time, especially when the engine gets high loads or high speeds. After cooling and rebooting, the lamp is out again. 3.6. At the beginning of 2015 workshop order to repair the oil loss on the engine and on the engine. Checking why the warning lamp starts. According to the invoice, KIA Werkstatt could not dismantle the turning roller of the belt and therefore did not get to the cause of the oil loss. Repair was stopped for cost reasons, with the recommendation of KIA to buy a new car. 3.7. Decision: the car is driven up until the last day, then emergency bought something else, even if there is nothing more suitable for us than the Carnival. 3.8. In 2015 several times admitted gasoline, in order to 3.9. Mid-2015 the Supergau: approx. 1.5 L on the tank filled only to a quarter, but not fully filled. Woman driven the next day without refuelling, after approx. 60 km engine downtime. 3.10. immediately with diesel fueled up and engine and fuel paths washed by hand several times. Since everything was done consistently, no filter change. 3.11. engine did not work again. 3.12. Since suspicion of capital damage engine or destroyed high pressure pump no w more measures taken, but reserved for more precise testing. Vehicle deregistered, replacement car (Opel Astra G ) purchased, first breathe and the loss ache. 3.13. A friendly screwdriver suggests to look more closely and not to scrap the car. Result: High pressure pump runs, starter rotates, engine has compression but does not start. When disassembly oil is detected on the cylinder head. Decision: Unclear error, Could be to the barrel without floor 3.14. When towing the car back home, I try “To the fun of what happens to whom you let the clutch come: the engine jumps, apart from the luminous warning lamp, as if nothing were at all. Great astonishment. Presumably: the engine could get out of the step by an uncontrolled ignition, because it is not possible to estimate whether it has damaged the engine. 3.15. Therefore, let the engine run again, but no load and no play with the speed, in order not to create any further damage. Motor remains the full 20 minutes return journey and runs at constant idle speed, engine warning light is all the time. At home motor strangled while parking, after that it is not again to be used via the starter 3.16. The decision is made: the Opel will stay, the Kia will get away, because Opel will be running and KIA will have unestimable risks when repairing the vehicle. 3.17. Last week: A driving accident with the Opel, apron, carrier, air conditioning and engine cooler, vehicle slightly distorted…High costs. 3.18. The Kia will be back in focus. Repairing the Opel, or money into the KIA the engine has started at least once?- Thanks to the load of the train and the number of seats, the decision is made for the repair of the KIA. 3.19. First reparture point: change timing belts and glow plugs to make sure the No problem with the control times is present, see above mentioned suspicion. 3.20. On the towing path to the workshop the engine jumps again problemlessly, starts with stronger vibrations than usual but constant. Again no experiments with speed or Las 3,21. Great AHA experience in the workshop: A carnival has no light plugs, even if you can easily buy them everywhere. Furthermore, the warm engine does not start again after you have switched it off. 3.22. But the preheating system seems to be doing so, because it smokes from the intake nozzle when you start the ignition. 3.23. A little more experienced with diesel engines. Auber hears about the problem and claims that he will run the engine without any problems. Astonishment when he sprays brake cleaners into the suction nozzle and the car starts with a starter without any problems. 3.24. Since the hard work is done, what can be done? 3.25. Try to read out the engine data fails: The available diagnostic device from Bosch can understand all vehicle types since 2004 according to the operating instructions, but no error codes… so here no help in sight. 3.26. Relays in the k 3.27. Backups tested, no defects found. 3.28. Detached sensor found: (Under the intake block in the engine fuse, possibly a knock sensor??- Re-infected, everything remains with the old. With start-up aid the engine runs, without. The sensor is therefore probably removed during the workshop visit a year ago and had since. 3.29. Since no further ideas, first do what 3.30. All repair measures come to an end on Friday evening, when the screw of the belt disc on the crankshaft stubbornly refuses to go. At tightening values of almost 400 Nm and loosening moments of up to 800 Nm according to the Internet, the impact wrench fails. All further measures postponed until Monday/Tuesday, then we try to get the belt disc fixed without special tools, which one with correspondingly long lifting l the mother gets solved. Until then, however, it is still not clear whether a tooth has superseded and if so, whether the fault comes from it (at all, therefore can come). So much for the development and the current state. I think that on Monday or Tuesday we will be able to get the belt disc down and then change the timing belt. V-belts are also changed on the occasion, as is the diesel filter. Only I worry that the damage can not be fixed afterwards. nte… and then we have no plan B as we proceed. My suspicion is getting stronger and stronger, that the “petrol-gau” was indeed the tinsel on the scale, but not the actual cause of the failure. Therefore my question to the forum: If one excludes the timing belt, the diesel filter, the relays etc.: What can prevent the engine from starting via the starter, but does not prevent it from running??? Thank you for your support in advance, the Toby
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S 560 SEL 85″ Earth-gaze?
Moin, I wanted to buy a 560 SEL as a kilometer eater. The price is 550€. It is year 85, was converted last year to earth-gaze has 680000km away. Otherwise full-equipment. With my company car an E-270 CDI of 03″, he had at least 240tkm away, I had an accident, follow = Total damage! A new one is ordered just that takes a few months to get there. I have still my car( w210 E-320) but I have always fascinated myself for the old S 560 SEL, u And I finally wanted to buy it. Normally I could get a replacement car immediately, an old passat, but I get mileage if I would drive with my private car, and because the vehicle just so fascinated, I wanted to drive around with it for the next months. Engine is still the original, the carrier rails have been eroded recently, new tires, on the paint no rust, stained blocks also just renewed. The vehicle is 1 hand and has been fas since its manufacture Now my question, is it possible to calculate with power loss due to earth-gaze????? Because of the gas stations I asked myself, on my route (only Autobahjn) there is an Ergadstankstankstelle all 160km. What to pay attention to when buying? And how fast does the 560 SEL drive?? Thanks already in the MFG TIM
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Insignia ST OPC, oversteering when changing loads
Hello OPC driver, had the first opportunity to strain the car for the first time last week. I noticed unpleasantly, that the part in fast curves starts to oversteer when taking the gas, and quite violently. In OPC mode it is less pronounced, but still present. Is it really nice… if you have such a bullet and then such a restlessness comes into the chassis. I thought OPC = Sport !? Am I the only one with it? Or maybe it’s the winter bikes? Thanks un I’m glad you’re here.
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Paint the interior of the headlight – how to prepare?
Hi! I wanted to paint my headlight parts. The disassembly etc. is not a topic, has been described often enough, but how do I prepare the plastic part? One reads something of special plastic primer or tempering. I would like to do this myself, what do I have to bear in mind? Thank you.
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Water infiltration in the trunk
Hello, after a three-hour drive through really bleak rain weather, I had to get angry that my jacket was neatly wet in the trunk. Until I then checked the compartment under the normal trunk and had to find out that there was 2 centimeters deep water – there was my mood something demoralized, I don’t know about my R230. I lit it all with a flashlight as well and also felt with my hand, whether somewhere noticeable Wass Unfortunately, I couldn’t really identify anything, despite the amount of H2O I found. Does anyone have a tip for me, where the liquid could probably have run in? My first tip would have been the sealing edge from the trunk, but with the amount of water I would have expected to find clearer traces. Are there other points that would have been worth checking? The car must anyway in the next time into the Inspek However, the (in itself very good) workshop is certainly grateful for any help with such a case.