Author: 00c12f

  • Roof box for V70II with sports suspension and roof railing: Which one suits our moose best?

    Hello together, I have already tried the search but unfortunately the threads are already quite old and therefore I would like to open a new one here. There was already a thread which also dealt with the max. height of 2m (from 2012). Maybe up to today has already done some things… We drove this year for the first time with our offspring on holiday and have noticed that even with our V70II (a roofing) the loading volume has exhausted at some point 😉 Now we have I have already looked at some roof boxes on Thule.com, but I am totally clueless about the boxes and the necessary accessories 🙁 The following points are important to me: Max. 2m height of the vehicle incl. roof box due to ferry, A lot of additional storage space through the roof box, aerodynamically it should be, loadable from both sides, security options in the box should be present s one, it should also look good 😉 Do you have some tips for me which roof box I could use? Which accessories do I still need? Have also looked at some load carriers. There are these “wingbars”. Do they do what? Some time ago I saw a very flat roof box in the Volvo accessory range that fits exactly between the roof rails. But don’t know what’s called anymore. I thank you for your answers!

  • What happens if the impedance is too low for the final stage?

    Now I get a 3512 (2x2Ohm) and it should run (at least for the time being) at my Eton 5402. After I got the tip from the one I bought the Woofer from (from the Termpro Forum, who had the same combo) that you can run the Eton to press it on 1Ohm bridge, the thought doesn’t let me go anymore. But what happens, how the 1Ohm are too much of the good? Will the level then turn on Protect or dissolve into smoke? I want that And one of you knows how much the Eton does theoretically at 1Ohm bridge? And then I thought about something (I’m pretty layman and I’m sorry if that’s bullshit): According to the seller, his impedance when pressing with the Eton has risen from 1Ohm to 3.5Ohm (so that’s possible at all). At the 3.5Ohm I should have something about the specified 1050W at 4Ohm, right? If I now e.g. an SPL Dynamics S 2000 d pick up and connect my woofer to 1 ohm, then the impendance will probably rise similarly high. However, the level is indicated at 4Ohm only with 700W, so should give up at the assumed 3.5Ohm only slightly more than the 700W at the pressure. Does this mean that my Eton (if she joins the 1Ohm bridge) brings more than a final stage that is twice as strong (with my Woofer, and I can’t go with it under 1Ohm)? I now only have the S2000 as Beis I don’t know if it’s more than indicated, but I’m just saying that the numbers are right. Do I see that at least theoretically right or do I have a mistake in thinking? MfG, Diddy

  • Whispering noise at per ceed

    Hello, since the end of March I have the Kia pro ceed 1.6 lx with summer package. I am completely thrilled by the car, only now unfortunately a big one comes but: For about 6 weeks the vehicle gives from speed 160 a very loud whistle noise of itself. It is not that this comes from the wind, because it does not slowly become louder but suddenly starts starting from about 160 km/h. I can best describe the sound like this: It sounds like someone immediately on the tires a microphone in of course was immediately in a Kia workshop and then came the usual, namely the demonstration effect. When I drove with the workshop master over the highway, the car did not give a “peep” of itself. I noticed then during my later journeys that this noise only occurs when it is very warm weather, so from about 25 degrees. Must now wait for warm days to drive to the Kia workshop again I hope that this tone will then “report” so that the Master does not think I would suffer from hallucinations. Perhaps someone from you has already had this problem, would be nice if he could inform me then.

  • Car compact class for 50,000km per year

    I need some ideas for the not improbable case that I soon have about 80 km of work path (160Km per day), which I then take a few private trips about 50k km per year. Moving to Hamburg is not in and I don’t want to leave or rent my condominium either. Route profile: – Bundesstrasse, a lot of highway (Tacho 120-140 is enough for me completely for the daily trip) and a smaller part of big city traffic (Hamburg) I am on the route this week. It’s driven several times and it’s not as bad as feared, but my petrol engine consumes just too much fuel to make it permanent. Consideration 1: Installing a gas system into my focus. Despite its age, my focus is only 119,000km down and is a suction fuel. But unfortunately not really gas-proof if I can trust various forums. Consideration 2: Toyota Prius. Would save a lot of fuel in Hamburg and would have an automatic transmission by the way. car prices for a Prius 3 with a few kilometers. Consideration 3: a diesel in the compact class. Although my Passat TDI was the worst possible repair grotto and I don’t really want to drive a diesel again. Because of the many kilometers a Hyundai i30 came to mind (5 years warranty without mileage limit). But maybe you have another tip. Budget I thought of about 10,000 euros.

  • Passat Variant

    Hello experts … we have a passat with the CD300 system with 8 boxes, now there is the Dynaudio system with 10 boxes and we ask ourselves where the 2 other boxes are installed. We would like to get further some ideas which other systems are suitable for installation in a Passat 3C… your expertise is desired … and since we know that you can spend from 0 to 10,000 Euri, I think myself to the price category from 1000 to 1500 Euri max.

  • Crossbars change both

    I get a complete set at ebay once this: http://cgi.ebay.de/…027QQcmdZViewItemQptZAuto parts_ Zubeh%C3%B6r?… and once this: http://cgi.ebay.de/…635QQcmdZViewItemQptZAuto parts_ Zubeh%C3%B6r?… Should I take this for 80€ or do you not need the track rods etc?

  • Opinion on an A1?

    Hello dear community, I have already tried my luck in an A1 forum, because unfortunately not many answers came together, so I hope that I can get some more feedback here with my request 🙂 It is about the following A1 which I look at today:http://bit.ly/22eoRgE The equipment is very comprehensive and it is all that I would like. On request the dealer told me that the car is not a smoking vehicle and a repainted driver’s door and has a changed front bumper. Two things, however, cause me stomach pain: On the one hand, the “high” mileage and thus in connection with the motorization of the A1. I have already read in some forums of the “problem engine” 1.4 TFSI with 185 hp, that he has gladly given up the mind at 10000 to 20000 kilometers. To the driving profile the seller could not give me information on the phone, so I can not tell how much the car was moved in the city/on the train. Of course, I understand that a remote diagnosis of such things is always difficult, but do you have an assessment or would you completely advise against it? Are there things I should/can take care of during the test drive today? The last question would be a price estimate. A few days ago they had an almost identical equipped A1 in it, which had run about 20000 kilometers and also the Bose Sound System on board. It was to cost 17290, which is why I was surprised to see that the “only” 300 is offered more cheaply, given the damage already mentioned (all of which was repaired in the Audi workshop) and the significantly higher mileage. Thank you for your time and assessment, Max

  • SUN QST 900 – old ignition tester

    Hello, I’m new here in the forum, but I’ve been following some posts for some time. My question doesn’t fit directly into this OBD forum, but this department seemed to be the most similar to me;-) We only repair vintage cars, so vehicles that are 50-100 years old, so I often need old test devices. Currently I have this SUN QST 900 ignition tester which actually works without any problems, i.e. ignition time, early adjustment, closing angle etc. he does not assign – see arrows on the photo The upper one is a fixed socket without a rest or similar, so you could not plug in a plug. The lower one can be pulled out with a cable and has a multi-pole connection that reminds of old DIN connections from the HIfi area…. And the half-covered switch at the bottom right (D <--> M) does not open to me either. Does anyone have an idea for what these connections or switches are? Or even better… does someone have a manual of this, or a similar device? We also have other larger testers, but this one only runs on 12V and is therefore also mobile, so I would like to use it. Thanks in advance

  • Compressor Restoration

    Moin moin, I got a compressor without compressor “gifted”. Since the company “Schneider” tells me something and since I grew up in Flensburg I just couldn’t say no. Now I have the good thing here and I have to find out that I have no idea. Therefore the following questions: – Would it be advisable (since 1969) to bring the boiler to the tuv?! Rust from inside he does not have any, that I could check. – Can I “just” a new compressor at Ebay or so bring with 10-12 bar and it fits somehow?! ==> something like this for example : https://www.ebay.de/itm/255924446902 – how can I get out which belt I need?! Just go after length?! Should someone from North West Lower Saxony come so I would also be grateful for help 🙂 On the pictures everything is still dirty and chaotic! Clean is everything now and looks like quality 🙂 Thanks for the help already T5M

  • Crossbar screw is stuck. Which tool to pull out.

    The transverse handlebar screw on the Audi A6 is so fixed that it has more than 200 newtonmeters of torque before it goes back again, can be rotated at a maximum of 90° and then starts to become crooked. Unfortunately, I already sunk the thread, and I don’t know which tool I should pull the screw out of the head now. With the Meiselhammer it doesn’t go any further because the angle is not right and also with a huge hammer with 2.5 joules impact force the screw no more millimeters go out t. Drilling doesn’t work either because no access fender blocks the angle. I know all the common methods like pulling out on the thread with the press-air hammer or any expressions, all this can’t be done, I need a tool to pull out