hi, it’s not about the car, but I want to use the audio components. I want to build a portable music box. I want to use the end stage and feed it with a mp3 player. however, the question remains about the power supply. for this I wanted to use 2 smaller batteries in parallel to supply the end stage with electricity, but unfortunately I have heard that it should not be so good for the batteries to simply switch them in parallel. what happens in the end charging and in the open air adecycle with 2 parallel batteries? what if they are the same? what if 2 different? main reason for using 2 batteries is first the price and second the better weight distribution.
Author: 00c12f
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Car does not start. Battery, starter o.a. defective?
Hello dear forum, I’ve already goneugled, but I didn’t find what I’m looking for, or maybe I didn’t understand 100%. That’s why I want to turn to you now. I’m driving a Honda Accord Type S from 2010. Now to the problem description… In September it started that I wanted to start the engine and it hit about 2 sec. until it started. Not top, but for me completely ok. Until December no changes and then the car is always swollen. even after the key turned around only a short sound came (starter turned), 2 sec nothing and then he jumped on. Often the car didn’t jump at all. When pushing on it he always jumped on without problems. After longer car rides >30 min with switched on heating, sitting heating and music he almost always jumps on without problems. After short drives without power eaters had to be pushed off and on. I always have this on the B after 1 day in which the car was not moved, I measured the voltage… 12,43V and the car does not start… what should I think of it? I ask for quick help, because I like to know what is missing my car. If I have not described something, then please ask again. Hope you can help me further. MfG. P4ss0
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Prevent safety-critical failures in old cars?
Hello all, last week my ten-year-old Peugeot with 75tkm broke the spring of a front shock absorber. Fortunately over the weekend in a stand, at 120 km/h on the highway this would probably have run out of fatal, because due to the design the spring has slipped over the position up/next to the tires and would have slit it in driving and/or blocked it… I did a little research, tenor is probably: Happens at ~100tkm times, especially with the French people and the VW group. It can’t be foreseen before the damage occurs. In the usual cover list on the Internet, the shock absorber springs don’t show up. Super. Question: How can I make sure that it doesn’t put me in danger of life by failure of safety-critical parts? How do all the old/youngtimers survive? Are there extended lists when you should change which parts (BEFORE they break)? Or does it just help everyone a few years to buy a new car? thank you, Andreas
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Is there a perfect clean diesel already on the market today?
Moin, is there currently on the market Diesel cars which comply with the Euro 6 standard(s) and could also comply with the Euro 6d standard (from 2020) already today? And above all: Do they have running culture, throughput, performance… – Do they bring fun and driving pleasure? Which models should I try? Or honestly, does a petrol/gaser have to come here if I want relatively clean performance that’s fun? Of course, in the future no way leads past e-cars, and I’m looking forward to it!
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Installing new headlights: how exactly does the adjustment in front of a wall work?
Good day, for this weekend I decided to change the headlights on my car. The new headlights are already equipped with an LWR which can be adjusted twice (height and I believe light cones). On Youtube I had watched a video showing how the headlights can be adjusted almost 1:1. For this the gentleman drove in front of a house wall and had marked the height of the light beam by means of adhesive tape as well as the slope(s) of the L ichtkegels. Yesterday I had put myself in front of a house wall for testing purposes, but did not get a light beam that can be “measured” as shown in the video. Unfortunately I received an appointment for a light test in my workshop only for the 2nd week of November but I can only set up the installation time on this weekend. Therefore, there are alternative possibilities to adjust the headlights as accurately as possible with the help of the simplest accessories? Or do I imagine a lot of easy too stupid to drive in front of the wall?
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Vehicle measurement declare log
Hello, the Astra J got two new tires in front because the old inside had totally driven off. Who can explain “woman” the vehicle survey protocol. I worry about the red values, is there something wrong after measuring and adjusting something? To explain, it is not a combo and my son drives 160 km daily, especially highway. Thank you and greeting Mrs Astra
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i20 is certainly worth the 1.0T-GDI 100hp compared to 1.2 with 84hp
I would like to buy an i20 as a second car mainly for the city and medium overland/BAB journeys. The following two engines come into question: i20 blue 1.2 with 84PS IO = 5.8 AO = 4.0 KOMBI = 4.7 KOMBI Spritmonitor = 6.24 CO2 = 109 control = 52€ i20 blue 1.0 T-GDI with 100PS IO = 5.3 AO = 3.6 KOMBI = 4.3 KOMBI Spritmonitor = 6.21 CO2 = 99 control = 28€ According to Spritmonitor.de, the two take nothing at all in consumption. The turbo is interesting because of only half of the tax per year. With an intended service life of at least 10 years, a tax saving of 240€. This is not the world. If you have a NON-Blue 1.2, it will be a little bit more. But it certainly goes down in the total cost. But for this I only have a 3-cylinder with turbo instead of 4-cylinder 1.2 suction cup. The 3-cylinder certainly runs much more unevenly, of that I am convinced. urbo certainly gives him good bangs from low rotational speeds and the torque is certainly quite conducive to progress. But the turbo is a part that can be broken after a few years. The problem does not have the 1.2er already. In addition, the problem with the fine dust with the turbo/direct injections. Who knows what our government and EU can come up with in the next few years – see Blue Environmental Zones etc.. In addition, it is the case that a turbo just at high speed I was able to observe this with my Golf IV 1.8T. Everything that went up from 150km/h he took good petrol. There were some same-volume vacuum cleaners at the same and higher speed less fuel consumption. OK the 1.8T also had 19″ with 225 tyres. The comparison lags somewhat, but basically 84 hp should however in the city always and also on the BAB for swimming with 130/1400 km/h completely enough. eis of approx. 1000 € for the 1.0T-GDI has to be brought in again, taking into account what could be with the Trubo times and especially since the consumption is real identical. The 1.2 is “old”-known and children’s diseases should be solved. What do you think? Greeting Dirk
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Hyundai i10 – Intro equipment, different models delivered?
Hello After I mentioned here http://www.motor-talk.de/…/…disk wiper interval-t4899697.html that my Intro 1.2 unexpectedly still has speed control system, speed limiter and boot lighting in addition to the listed intro equipment, there seem to be different variants. The speed control system seems to be missing sometimes, or is it motor dependent? What do the steering wheel switches look like with the models without speed control system and speed limiter – sin d with these models the buttons also printed? The trunk lighting is according to brochure only available at the style. Must look for the glove compartment, whether there is also a lighting there. Many greetings and a nice Sunday