Hy, I have AGM batteries on the boat and I know what that was like at that time for a HickHack, for example charger ect. Now my in the car is not so great anymore, and I still have a suitable good AGM over. Can I just install and connect them? If you ask yourself what exactly the difference is, to my knowledge, you can charge the AGM faster and higher, and these would have sealed chambers like a kind of gel, instead of liquid. The newer cars already have many AGM inside, which I also have Wondering if I’m gonna break something on the on-board electronics or something like that!? THANK YOU in advance lg
Author: 00c12f
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Reactivation of deep discharge gel batteries
Mojn, I have two 12V gel batteries deep-loaded by service life; both were up around the 6V, both are now back up to the 11.8V, but the charger now stays for hours at each one at a constant 14.5V charge voltage, heating up properly without indicating that it wants to get ready. At least with one of the two batteries, the charging level remains relatively constant after disconnection, thus without significant self-discharge over the course of hours; the Of course, the charger does not remain on the grid when I leave the apartment, so that the respective charging process is always interrupted, also so that the loading ditch can cool down in between. The question is now whether it seems sensible to continue the charging processes? They are almost full, at least with regard to the voltage. Certainly there will be one or other user who has already done the same thing more or less successfully here? Perpetuated?
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Loud hum in the interior after tyre change
Hello everyone, I put my summer tires back on the car yesterday (Godyear F1, 225/45/r17 from 2006). I had no problems with them until the demonthly last year, now I have changed for reasons of even wear from the rear to the front. Right on the first ride this hum occurred: between 30 and about 60 kmh extremely strong in the interior, but no vibrating of the steering wheel, especially to feel when the car rolls and is not accelerated. I had read a lot about the sawtooth here, I checked the tires, but there was nothing noticeable to discover. So today I switched back (back to the front again), just like the tires were driven last season. The loud hum is still there in the above area, but at least not so extremely loud (you could hardly talk in the car before). I checked tire pressure, and also tried with more now less pressure, without success g. My next step would be to let the tires balance and to have them checked on high stroke, but then I wouldn’t have to have vibrations on the steering wheel? The tires still have between 3.5 and 4.5 mm profile and actually wanted to drive them this summer. Still ideas what I could try ? Greetings and thanks for your input. Joschi
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Winter tyres and ‘real’ winter tyres: differences between North and Central European types
Here’s a very interesting video in which Nokian compares his winter tyres for North and Central European conditions:http://www.youtube.com/watch?… It’s interesting that mE is almost warned against driving in Scandinavia with these ‘bad’ winter tyres for Central Europe, because they are designed differently and are made for other speeds and weather conditions. Words such as ‘snow king’ are relativizing very quickly and also snow and ice ratings for m ADAC and other tests at least appear in a different light for me. Especially in the brake test there are considerable differences…
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Strong doubts about objective testers!
The Auto Bild Sportcars published in tomorrow’s issue, the winter tire test (225/45/17). Was today with my tyre dealer and what I see: The new (complete) edition, which is supposed to be on sale only tomorrow, with a big advertising banner from Dunlop on the cover page: “Dunlop is the Auto Bild Sportcars test winner”. How can, if allegedly everything is so objective and the edition tomorrow (!!!) only appears in the trade, Dunlop then today already issues of this Ze If it is so objective, how does Dunlop know the test result (long) before the publication of the magazine? How can Dunlop, 1 day before the publication of the original magazine (without advertising banners), already distribute magazines with advertising banners? Slowly (could) one almost get the feeling of becoming quite vera…. from these (allegedly) objective tests. Is there (possibly) before that (possibly) before that. The test winner is already fixed and the test is written around it? Maybe there is also a very simple explanation, but a rather low taste remains.
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Tires do not really fit despite the same size designation!
Hello in the round, is that actually still normal, what I am experiencing? Sometimes I really doubt myself. Vehicle: Citroen Jumper II Tyre size: 215/75 R16 C Previous tyre: Continental Vanco Winter2 (as 113/111 R) Current tyre: Goodyear Cargo Ultra Grip (as 116/114 Q), slightly rougher than the previous one. Happy and satisfied that I could spontaneously (can you “mount” now?) pull the tires on it just before worktime – the sticker due to lower speed “The tires are too big, with a strong steering impact they grind somewhere.” (With the old tires never had problems, the size is out of the vehicle’s license, were just at the wear limit.) I: “Can’t be, there has been the same size as before, just another manufacturer.” : “Yes, that can happen however, that despite the same size designation the manufacturers interpret these (I’ll shorten the time) differently. 215/75 R16 does not have to be equal to 215/75 R16.” I: “Well, great, and now?” Conclusion: The cart stands now and is not driven. Can you really not rely on it nowadays when the size is on the flank? What does that stand for, if it is not true? Should one now measure yourself? Why pi*** then the tuv actually still stands if deviations are above x% (registration / speedometer adjustment due to different tyre size), if not even the same tyre designations provide an identical result? I can no longer come with …
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Noise during braking
Hello together, if I have to brake hard on the highway, e.g. from 140-150 km/h to 90-100 km/h, the brakes make really loud noises, as if the documents were going on metal. The car remains completely in the lane, so pull neither to the left nor to the right. I do not have the problem with normal braking. I have looked at the documents and discs, well the newest ones are not, but about 50-70 mm are on documents still on it. The windows are well started however. Ic h now decided to exchange the receipts and discs. Do I have to pay attention to something special? Euroline Bj 2005 with 2 lit. and 125 hp. Furthermore at Ebay are allegedly original Ford spare parts sold, what is your experience. What brand would you recommend? PS: I have changed the brake discs more often, I can, it is only about that with some cars it has to be taken into account, e.g. Touran rear wheel has to be turned in cylinder (special factory z eug). Thank you in advance greeting
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Compensation for loss of use and obligation to reduce damage
Hello together, I hope I didn’t miss anything during the research. Otherwise please delete. I had an accident with a foreign driver almost half a year ago. The day after the accident I presented my car to my contract workshop and got an expert appointment for in 2 weeks as well as a repair appointment in another week. In total a little over 20 days until the transfer of the unrepaired vehicle to the workshop came to order. (I then had a workshop replacement car from that point on). -The report noted “Vehicle is ready to drive but not traffic safe because headlights are broken (damage to lighting)” -A vehicle category of €50/day was chosen as the daily rate for the failure of use. Now my lawyer informed me that I would have had a duty to reduce damage and should have chosen an earlier workshop date. There would not be a right to use failure. I am not 12 hours after the accident to the workshop and I also gave the repair order there immediately. The appointment for the expert and the repair was given to me and I did not use the vehicle except for a few exceptional situations under tags until the repair. I assume that I have the fullest claim to the loss of use. Why do I ask the question here and not the lawyer? -The damage matter is already about a Half a year (foreign insurer) The paper mountain is enormous. The jurisdiction of the case has changed several times. I have the impression that the firm wants to finally get rid of the case (which I can understand). Therefore I would like to have the opinion of you whether it is promising for me to ‘discuss’ with my lawyer about the matter or let the matter be based on itself. But after all, this is not about little money.
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Motorcycle Damage-free years on car take over
This is a case of my own fault, but still nasty. I sold my motto wheel and bought a car. Had SF8 before and wanted to take it with me. At Check24 I picked out a cheap insurance (250€ at Admiral-Direkt) , unfortunately I missed that somewhere in the details is that damage-free years are only taken over by car .. The insurance is also not Kulant and I can not out for a year (is 490€…) Have also sometimes all of course Admiral is the only insurance with this scheme. Are insurance companies obliged to accept damage-free years? Can I get out of there as I assumed another price? Otherwise any ideas? Thank you very much! Greetings Andi
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Km of performance not reported/missed to report!
The following happened to me! I completely forgot to report to my insurance company the annual Km performance! Was asked 2x and both times I forgot it again! Now I got a new contribution invoice to my insurance with an increase! Pay always monthly and in October the contribution was already collected! Now the insurance now in October collects a contribution and that is the increased! Is that right? If I report the driving performance, I get my old post back???