Hello all to each other; my Park Avenue has had a little trouble with switching the automatic last time. But I can now exclude the automatic, since it does the same without automatics (in P). So: If you step the accelerator only about 1/4, the engine behaves quite normal, but: if you press a little more, then the engine grumbles around, and it stutters up the speed. So, what can that be???? I have heard something of a clog Kat, but how ka n n am testing this, or is it at all??? The GM people in Augsburg and Munich know nothing at all! mfg mike69
Author: 00c12f
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Big block with low power in the lower speed range
Hello Loide, I’m new here and have a little problem with my 440 magnum. Maybe you can help me. The maschiene doesn’t pull at all in the lower speed range (300 – 2000 rpm), or the engine almost sucks off when starting or with strong acceleration from the lower speed range and stutters if, for example, I don’t bring it to over 2500 rpm when starting at the traffic light. The same picture arises when accelerating from about 60kmh in 4 gear (4-speed manual): the maschiene krie If there is a full power drop (this doesn’t happen during gentle acceleration), the big block runs in idle mode at 300 rpm and is also running round (hot nock??). It is still striking that this power drop occurs only under medium to heavy load, i.e. if I turn up the machia in idle mode or very gently accelerate, it runs perfectly and there is no power drop. In order to fix the problem, the ignition was completely re-set 3 months ago, Zündk and the compression is measured (compression was very different per cylinder, but in the tolerance range specified by Dodge in the service manual). Now my question is to you: what can this be? Is the carburettor the problem? Do the intake spider, cam and carburettor may not fit together? How can I find this without taking the whole engine apart? Thx for your help!
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Brake power amplifier broken ??? how does overhaul work??
Hello, so after some Air RIde screw , I came back to the BRremkraftverstäker… So today at the PRobefahrt …I have determined that as soon as I turn on the brake a hissing noise comes from the BKV / appearance …unfortunately the noise is constantly so until I go back off the pedal then everything seems to be tight !! at least you hear nothing !!!! What can be lazy !!?? Are there overtaking kits for such a thing and how can I actually find out the type there no sign / sign etc. seen on it ???? Greetings achim
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What kind of parking aid for a station wagon?
Hello, we will soon have a new (used) car due. It will become a combo of the category Octavia/Leon/Golf/Focus/etc. Previous car: Audi A4 B7 Limousine – soon this will be the second car. I have to say unfortunately, I can’t even park in smaller parking spaces backwards to the right with the approx. 4.60 meter long A4. Even if the car is behind me safely still 2 meters away, I don’t see where the car starts behind me (so disappears down) in the rear window), still where the Audi stops. I don’t know if this is easier or heavier with a station wagon. Of the length the cars take nothing, for example the Octavia is still 7 to 10 cm longer than a station wagon. But even to the front I don’t see where the car stops – it can be more easily estimated. I also have no exercise and there will be no exercise to it. Home parking space, supermarket parking spaces to park forward/backwards, work has parking space, The Audi A4 has nothing to do with parking aids, i.e. not even parking piesters in the back and we (my wife and I) have never had a car with any kind of parking aid. Therefore, my question, which technology one comes with some of the regular destinations have parking spaces or it is somewhere in the country with a lot of space. Is the rear-view camera a major advantage? Or is the 360° round-view camera even better? Self-directing system? It is only about the rear-right parking in narrow parking spaces in the city. With little practice and there will not be any practice, because I only have to do it very rarely. Close parking garages, narrow parking spaces to park forwards/backwards etc. pp. are no problem. But whether I have a meter to the rear car or 10 cm – I don’t know (and I don’t see it either). Whether I just come by while steering in front or if there is still a lot of space, I don’t have a feeling for it and I don’t see it either. Are there normal parking beeps in front and back sufficient, can you rely on them completely? Or are the further systems already in advantage?
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Give yourself a kick-start?
Hello, in advance: I myself have no driver’s license or idea of cars. So please be lenient if my question/idea is absolutely stupid. But the thought just doesn’t let me sleep… I learned earlier on on the TV that a very large proportion of ADAC inserts arise due to battery problems and can be solved with simple start-up help. Now I wonder if one could not carry a “replacement” battery for this? However, not for exchange, but for itself. So a battery with the right voltage etc., just with low charging capacity to make it easier. So a power bank for the car?! You usually also have a spare bike with you, so why not also such a thing? Or is there something that I don’t know about/see? Greetings.
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INTACT BATTERIE-GUARD recommended for battery monitoring?
Good day, as a newcomer to the MOTOR-TALK forum, I would like to ask a first question: I have purchased a well-equipped VW Golf 8 Variant (1.5 Ltr. 150 HP petrol manual gearbox year 06/2021), which unfortunately has no indication for the battery voltage and the battery condition. It seems that the designer at VW was more interested in ambient lighting with at least 30 selectable colors. Now I am looking for a way to get this very meaningful information with an additional device. The focus is on a product INTACT BATTERIE-GUARD, which could probably provide me with all the missing parameters. Has anyone already had experience with this module and would be willing to participate in any success experiences? I would like to thank you for a definitely helpful answer and greet you as a “newer”.
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Car doesn’t start anymore
Hello, I have the following problem: I wanted to start my car today but didn’t go, there was a knatter in some attempts, also the control lights were weakly displayed, Also the time is weakly displayed, mileage is not displayed at all. When I wanted to go home again and the car wanted to lock off it also did not work, with the remote control a noise came but the car was not locked off also with the key it was the same, only after 10-20 versu I think the battery is dead, I don’t know what to do, that’s my first car and I don’t know so well in the area either, so I don’t know if it could be something else. The question is what should I do now?? (I have no idea what to do now) I am a student and I don’t have so much money. Should I call the ADAC (without membership) b) call the ADAC but before that I have membership (d) ?? Thank you so much already in advance PS. I’m new here in the forum and am not sure if this is the right Therad, so sorry if it’s in the wrong place, I just took what was best for my opinion. I’m not sure if this is the right Therad, so if it’s in the wrong place, I’m sorry if it’s in the wrong place.
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European cars and quality of cables?!
As a layman, of course, I can only report subjectively, but often it seems to me as if one is driving from cable breakage to cable breakage. Doors, tail flaps etc. And lately it seems to me somehow as if Volkswagen and Co. are leading the way. For me a documentary about the Tiger combat helicopter has shot down. An incredible manufacturing process where one’s eyes fall out of perfection, and yet one had to face various cable breaks after a short time… . I wonder, do we in Europe generally have a problem with the quality of the cables? Do other manufacturers do something better or fundamentally different? Would there be better solutions to conduct juice in doors and co.? Or do you just have to accept this, physically inevitable?
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Buick suspension soft as butter
Hello everyone, just put my Buick back the track Oklahoma – Los Angeles without any problems. Unbelievable how well it feels, despite its almost 300t km. The only drawback: the chassis is so softly tuned that I drive around the curves as carefully as with none of my cars – not because of the curve radius, but because the roads here are not as smooth as in Germany and a floor shaft sometimes results in the car flipping twice. In a curve is My question: is this normal with the Buick or do I have to change the Stossdampfer? My Ford Taurus wasn’t so soft, my sister’s Honda Odyssey is just as hard-tuned as “normal” German cars. Greetings from Los Angeles, Daniel