Hello together, I don’t know where to go with the topic, so I’m trying here. I’d like to buy my water bike (Seadoo GTR 215 (engine: 1503 SC Rotax® 4-TEC® engine intake system…. Compressor with external charge air cooler, 60 mm damper flap)) a valve nozzle. In a water bike so-called water boxes are installed, through which the exhaust gases are guided. This water box dampens the soundscape through the invading water. Since the whole thing was too quiet, I have a co-operation with The sound is good and loud. A bit too loud in the long run, you can’t entertain yourself anymore and the WSP hears one already kilometers before. I’m looking for a solution now, I want to have the water box put in again and use a Y-piece with flap to switch between water box and stainless steel tube. Also solutions without water box can be discussed. I just want to between loud and le ise can switch. Do you have ideas? Best regards Tino
Author: 00c12f
-
new oil after 100 km already black ?
Hello, After 12500 km of mileage and km-stand 22800 I had two-year oil change at a free workshop – BWM Diesel 2.0 E84 with Castrol edge 5W30 C3 04 (LL). After approx. 100 km the oil on the oil measuring rod was already abundantly black, on the oil filter and the drain screw were also no traces -clean worked ! The question is, how black can the new oil be already after a short time ? In addition two pictures. The next time I change oil, I’ll check the course myself. If the piston sealing rings let too much through, it wouldn’t go well for long. The OBD probably doesn’t register if there’s too much “steam” in the exhaust gas recirculation. Even if one is psychopatic, it doesn’t rule out that they’re after his car (or money). Maybe everything is good, though.
-
Interpreting questions on mixture regulation
Hello, I’m just trying to read a little bit into the contexts of the mixture control in “modern” petrol engines (without turbo). But I’m probably a bit stupid to understand it correctly: 1. False air in the intake: You always read that the fuel consumption here is high and the exhaust gas values (CO?) are no longer correct, even with the smallest leaks. However, according to my understanding, if some air flows in before burning, the Lambda control should simply be a too lean mixture a At least in the normal partial load mode, as long as they are fuel trims in the adjustable limit, the exhaust gas values should be correct and the consumption should remain normal, or where am I wrong here ?? 2. Cat function at full load If the engine greases strongly at full gas and switches off the control, then the cat garnix makes more or only a little worse. If one with full gas the Lambdasonden signal HINTER the cat (Monito rsonde), would that be a zigzag like the rule probe ??
-
Marangoni summer tyres
dear community. in advance I ask for attention, but on the mt mobile portal I did not find the sufu. on the topic: looking for summer tyres (for summer, not for now) I came across marangoni e-logic for small and verso for larger sizes. price under or just above china and co and from Italian production you sound very interesting to me. the question is of course, why can be produced so cheaply, especially since apparently no large mature productions t his old technique recycled under this label. inferior quality? bad economist at the top? who has experienced these matures? and – please – there is a difference between experiences (from me also from third hand) and presumptions. it would be very nice and would stand for a constructive and serious exchange of information if this unfortunate phrase ‘geiz is geil’ did not fall. thank you!
-
What to do? 225/35 18 or 225/40 18
8,5Jx18H2 type RT 221 this is the rim that it is supposed to be. Unfortunately, the report only says 225/40 18! I had to drive 225/35 18. Unfortunately, I don’t have a visual idea yet! And do I get the Eibach ProStreet cranked down so far that it looks good and torst remains mobile? Look forward to meaningful answers! ( pictures ) Greeting and cheer!
-
Question about the Alufelgenreparatur (with pictures)
Hello vehicle maintenance forum, currently in winter you can not deal with the paint Since my fingers are burning, I wanted to take care of my 15 year old BBS aluminium rims. Unfortunately the car was previously driven by a woman vintage 1950 and therefore has a rim curbs. The round run is so far ok, however it looks extremely modest. Can one still tear something with rim repair sets with this defect, or must a replacement here ? Greeting Duky
-
No axle measurement in snow ??
Last week I had the tires put on my mother’s car and wanted to get his axle measurements on account of a slightly crooked steering wheel. Then they told me because of the snowy and icy roads I should rather postpone this for a few days, osnst you could not see afterwards if the steering wheel is straight. Shouldn’t you set it on a measuring stand? It is about tyre dealer Premio and not a backyard workshop. what can you do? do you say that?
-
Are rim locks useful?
Hello guys, I know that rim locks are included in new cars in England and Sweden, otherwise the insurance premiums are at least 50% more expensive. There is an organization there called “Thatcham”. It now writes in front of which rim locks are released from them. Should it be a difficult test?! Does anyone know more about this? What does this look like here with us? What do our insurers say about this? Has anyone had any experience?
-
Strongly increased wear of the winter tyres on the front axle with rear drive
Hello together, I am currently driving on my BMW E46-Touring on the front axle winter tyres from the manufacturer Bridgestone (type “Blizzak LM-22”. The tyres are from 2002 or 2003 (have the DOT-No. not now ready). On the rear axle (drive axle) are winter tyres of the manufacturer Michelin (type “Alpin” also from 2002 or 2003. Before approx. 1.000 km the profile depth was still about 4 – 5 mm on the front axle. Now in the last days I am a longer distance highway g This was probably about 700 km. There were no borderline situations during the ride, so no full braking or similar. When I looked at the tyres on the front axle today, I had to find out that in the middle of the tire the professional is almost down. The fine lamellas are still to be seen here on the middle blocks only weak. In the side areas the profile also dropped strongly. Before the ride the tires around to 0,2 bar over the The manufacturer’s intended values are filled, since we were on the road in four and with plenty of luggage. Should one do so according to various statements. Can it be because the tires are worn so badly at the front? Can it lie on the ice layer on the motorway? Why has the excessive wear occurred only on the front axle and not on the much more loaded drive axle? Is it because of the mixture of Bridgestone? If it does something about it: I have 2 days before I can’t imagine that this will have an impact on the tires. I’m going to have to get new flaps this season 🙁 Maybe one of you can answer some of my questions. Gruss, Uwe
-
without winter tires in the snow–>is that antisocial??
Hello, slightly provocative title, but nevertheless… apart from the fact that it is reckless to give up on M+S tyres in winter or on snow and ice and thus also safety aspects play a role….a slightly different view, many remain standing because some ”little”’ no longer progress. well we have winter and sometimes it is smooth and sometimes not…. if it is a bit white snowed in or wintery, often block a lot of poorly equipped cars and truck actually quite well navigable road…. Because just without winter equipment on the road, some such a verkeh participant has caused through cross-section or stuck for kilometers long traffic jams or blocked highways….where would normally be given a good pass with WR. many therefore come too late to work or home… What do you think about it ?? Greetings Andy