It’s my biggest riddle of all times! In November 2011 I’m getting my 94′ Volvo 850 T5, it’s driving great and is sure to get me to Munich from Stuttgart. Only the temperature (at -3°C outside temperature) turns over half of the display when the turbo is cold running. I already thought, said a friend, that it is normal after further distances that it turns up a bit. 3 days later the engine control light lights up – so I read something with you and switch to advised Lamdasonde and OT – dealer. The sign stays out for 1n week, also the fuel consumption adjusts itself from 14l to an average of only 12 liters of temperature increase but remains. Then we have bridged the fan relay, the fan engine works perfectly and jumps immediately. So I drive to Volvo to read out so much – result: Fan relays – changed – Fans still don’t start – again to Volvo – AHA ! Control unit. New control unit for 1050,- Euron ordered everywhere – but not jumps to the fan again – there is either a fan switch?
Author: 00c12f
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Cooler fan does not start
Hello together. Unfortunately, the radiator fan doesn’t start if it should do it…. First diagnosis, the fan itself is defective. Tested with direct power supply. It really didn’t jump on. Okay, exchanged for a used one, which also starts with direct power supply. To be careful, the relay is changed times. Unfortunately, everything is without success. The workshop has determined today 1,5h everything imaginable measured and tried, but it does not jump and the engine is too hot and the climate does not work in the stand. Apparently, the middle plug (which comes into the relay) does not have power. This is the plug, which has a yellow and a yellow/white cable. Someone’s idea what I / we could / should do next?! These two cables go into MStg or? fuses are also all ok….
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Durable gas at the CDI – fun with danger?
Moin! I have read myself everywhere, but as so often I found no correct answer to my question. One says it without problems, one means permanent full gas is poison for a diesel. First of all, I would be interested in whether such a “modern”/modern diesel ( CDI ) really does a full gas drive without any problems. Fear: Turbo damage, injector damage, engine damage by injector, etc. Is there anything on it? If so, when! And which models/engines are affected? Would you have a “raster” as you can drive, or would you be in danger that can break something permanently? To us: Vehicle is an S 320 CDI with the OM613 ( 197 hp R6 CDI ). Especially I would be interested in the engine as well as in general diesels ( from Mercedes ).
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Daimler tests low-cost turbochargers in Stuttgart
As I had to learn, Daimler is currently testing low-cost turbochargers in the Stuttgart area to probably see how much more you can save on production. Two weeks ago, several vehicles with loader damage failed. I learned from people from the Sued driving attempt who drive exclusively for Mercedes in Obertürkheim. I find it quite poor for the good old Mercedes brand…
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Magnesium engines
Dear forum, does any of you know if and when other engines than the current V6 M276 come with the lean technology? Next maybe the 400 BE with M276 Turbo? The new four-cylinders in the B-Class are obviously not lean, does that come with the announced 2-litre? And wouldn’t the V8 have to come with the technology at some point in theory, or does it already? Or does it prefer cylinder formwork like AMG and Audi? I ask because Audi with the A4/A5 has now presented quite a bit with 5.7l/100km, the C 200 currently needs exactly one litre more (and by the way, the A4 accelerates even faster). In the new 3 Series there are no techs. Data from the 320i. And the 350s are today very superior in consumption, i.e. one would have already finished the technology. Many greetings and beautiful Christmas!
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Buy Volvo or not?
Hello Volvisten all together, I have already read the various entries with great interest a few days. I would like to buy a V70 from 2003 onwards. He should not have more than 100,000 and 140 Ps are enough for me. I want to buy the car to transport different things or to visit friends in Germany. Now I am already aware that the page is there to get help with various problems. But sometimes it is quite blasphemed. Mainly I have the impression that the V70 is creaking and crackling in all corners. At least you read that often. Is it worth buying a V70 now or should I rather let it go? I thank you already in advance for your answers. Wolfgang
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icy rays with c02 granules. where to make?
hello, I think we’ve had the subject before, but I don’t think it’s a new thread. so at the end of the season, I’m going to take my motorcycle completely apart to get the engine back with a new black tinkle varnish and the frame again with a new powder coating. I’m looking for someone to clean the engine with the ice-beam process, externally treated and nice. I don’t want to take the engine out of the box, so the process with the ice-ray. who knows a company that does something like this. here in the environment of me, I didn’t find anyone who makes it an adequate price. gruss bb-blue
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Oel pressure switches
Hello experts, would like to finally activate the oil pressure gauge in my Saab 9000 CS ECOPOWER, 125 kW. To do this, the serial pressure switch for the warning lamp in the dashboard has to be replaced. But how is it removed? Is there only one plug plug on the thread socket and can you just pull it off? I tried it, but the thing is damn tight. Wouldn’t want to destroy anything. Or how else can it work? Greeting, julefreund
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Idle problem
I bought a Saab 9000 Bj.88 (Motor B202): Unquiet idle, after cold start the engine commutes between 500-2000 RPM, when it is warm it runs restlessly. After I take away gas the speed drops to below 500 and it likes to drain off. I have worked on an idle control valve with brake cleaner and did a new throttle damper – no change.In the lower speed range it runs rough, but from 3000 tours it pushes off powerfully.When accelerating bright whistles?Today after start the electronics (inside blower, window lifter etc.) has no power. After restart everything works again (accompanied by a strange noise from the rear). Euro 2 does not seem to be possible, since I do not get a cold run controller for the car. What can I do?
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Buy – or fingers off?
Hello, I am currently without a mobile kit, but I urgently need a vehicle (for about 1 year) that reliably brings me 70Km of easy distance over the highway to my workplace. A buddy borrowed a Phaeton (6cylinder) from his company and now I think about whether you can buy the good piece. The maintenance condition is “under all sow”, especially with the bright interior equipment this is of course bad, even the preparation at a specialized company helped only marginally. The car jerks when accelerating, not always, but more often. The control unit for the tire pressure control is probably defective, the front disc has a crack, but should still be taken over by the partial cascade, various pinned rust spots also has the good piece. Navi-DVD is missing. I once read out the fault memory and attached the relevant part. EZ is November 2004, mileage is about 265,000. What else can you spend for this? Thanks for reading and for tips Josef