Author: 00c12f

Hello dear SL friends, z Zt I live in the USA again and have taken a SL500 R230 from my last US stay with me which I left in Germany and also drive when we are on visit to Germany. Now I want to get a SL here in USA and have fallen in love with the SL R129 in the course of time. I have also found a few beautiful specimens, all from year 2000 onwards. However, here are mainly the SL500 or SL600ers at the start. Since I have no Erf I now turn to you to give me a few tips and suggestions and what I should pay attention to. Have you heard what the ABC system counts as a weak point for the R230. Is this true? and what motorization is recommended? V8 or V12 or should I look around for an extremely rare V6? (but these are only to be found here until 1995 or older) Have two objects attached to my desire For your tips I am very grateful? Best thanks to you and all time Good trip Alex

When reading various car magazines, I always notice that the 700 Nm of the new SL 500 (R231) is extremely high in relation to the 435 hp. No engine with comparable power has such torque. Even almost all engines in the 550 hp class (e.g. BMW/Audi V8) have less torque, although turbos are also installed there, which generally increase the torque. Does anyone know why the SL 500 has such a high torque? t: As a non-engineer, I understood correctly that the torque (Nm) indicates the power that the engine itself gives to the gearbox, and the final power (kW or PS) is then the product of torque and speed, which is why there are the “high-speed concepts” (e.g. old 63-AMG engine), which usually do without turbo and therefore have less torque, but then turn high, while the turbos have more torque and do not turn so high, which is why the power in PS is often similar, but the driving behaviour differs greatly (Turbo can be comfortably driven down, with the high-speed engine more must be switched, so that it always rotates as high as possible)?

Hello, drive even for two weeks a SL500 R230 year 2001 with 84,000km. I have a few little tech problems you can help me. One is the servo closure of the boot lid. This did not work was with Mercedes these wanted to install me a new lock. Then I read here you should pull the fuse F71. This made great, it worked. Yesterday I wanted to close the trunk then the servo closure does not go then tried the boot cover gently slammed the boot cover was too but in the instrument cluster he showed me with red lettering on trunk cover open. I then pulled the fuse then it went again. If the servo closure works after then a noise from the trunk is heard (like when air comes out of a dinghy when a hole is in it) so about 10 seconds long. Can you do something yourself or is here really the lock broken. The second it lights up – if the car is standing one to two days – in the instrument cluster electric consumer switched off. The time until it is extinguished now takes longer and longer. Yesterday had to drive about 10 km until all consumers were switched on again. The seller told me when he bought it he had reinstalled all two batteries. I also don’t know if that’s true. This message also shows it to my wife’s w211 but only in winter when he stands once a week and is then after 2 to 3 kilomets What could be your cause here could give me a tip here. Thank you for your help.

For many years, my father has always had a 350 SLC in the open (covered under Carport) The condition is as follows: Thresholds have to be re-inserted, since the previous owner removed the jacks. The paint dress is in spray can quality. the lower area of the body (the wavy area under the trims) is spattered and looks dirty! So this area also has to be re-inserted. The brakes are over, chassis rubbers porous , the Brem power amplifier leaks, engine is oiled and valve shaft seals are no longer in order… (stands 10 years ago) The car had to venture away from its place as a storm destroyed the carport roof. Since it did not slip, I went to work to breathe the engine back into life after 10 years of service! after three trying the engine ran with a pleasant and clean v8 sound. I then drove the car to its new parking space and fell in love with the car. W If you read the condition of the car like this, would you like to repair it again or rather slaughter it? PS: Amazingly, I didn’t find a new rust in the bike runs… It also looks rust-free in the trunk. Thanks for your help

Hello, After my sold Sl 500 had problems – with approx. 120,000 km tandem pump and immediately after that valve block renewed – I would like to prepare now. Recommendation Mr. Hehlhans and Zädow to change the oil every 5 years or 30.000 km plus additional filters. I have now 11 years and 78,000 km – so anyway already late. Oil color light brown smells not yet burned. What’s your opinion? Happy holiday from Austria Dear greetings Henry