MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • CPI = brand scooter?

    Hello scooter friends, as reported last month (or will) I switch from car to scooter, because financially more reasonable and in big city traffic more briskly. From the beginning I thought about buying a brand scooter, because after some TV reports I realized that cheap discount scooters are not made for daily use. (Dear China scooter fans and drivers, please do not rate as attack – price-lease ratio is otherwise OK) To my actual question: I was i However, I have been looking for dealers in the www and have come across scooters of the brand CPI on their pages again and again. The only thing I know about CPI is: “Moped manufacturer CPI, moped brand from Taiwan” Source: wikipedia.de Can you count scooters of this brand among the so-called “brand scooters” or premium scooters. I’m not quite sure for two reasons. First because of the reputation of rollers manufactured in Southeast Asia. and second because of the favorable new prices (from approx. 1200 €) Thank you in advance.

  • First car – Request for help

    Hello together. First of all, a short profile of me so that you can get a better picture of me and my situation. I’m 21 years old and will be in November 22. With the driver’s license I’m as good as through now and I’m looking for a car for the little money now. I only made the driver’s license now, because I used to be a hothead and just did shit with a car. I have a lively past and am glad that I waited until I left everything behind me. e. A big investment would not be worthwhile, since I will buy a new car in one, or a 1/2 years at the latest. Driving experience I have collected over the years and have no problem with a few PS more (first car that I “needed” to drive myself was a Golf 4 R32). I am aware of the responsibility that you bear if you have 100+ Ps under your butt and drive carefully (also thanks to the 1 year old son of my girlfriend I will be careful there). So, well to my questions and wishes to the vehicle. I have set 1500 Euro as a limit, because it would not be worthwhile to buy a car for 5000 Euro, if I will buy a newer one anyway in the near future. First of all, the vehicle should have a certain charm, whether it is a “noble” German, a splashy Asian/Italian/French etc., or I don’t really care about a bully American. It can only not be a 0815 Auto a la Golf 3 70 Ps. Then we come auc h already to the second point, the car should already have a certain power. I hate to sit e.g. in a 2 ton heavy vehicle and hardly come from the place. I already look for something between 100 and 160 Ps. However, he should not go with it over 2.2 liters ccm. A certain place should also be available, however, golf class would be completely sufficient and there is no need for a combi. Of course, it depends on the car. Color and equipment are also at first less wi In the insurance it will run as a second car and gives me the advantage that I do not have to pay absurd percentages. Fuel consumption should of course be considered, however, I would also pay for some cars a liter more. I hope that a few users can help me here and do not face insoluble tasks. Be happy about every answer. Thank you already. EDIT: Please don’t be surprised if there are a few errors in the text, write with’m smartphone and This can happen before.

  • What do you think about it? Kaufberatung Kawasaki Z750

    Moin, I’m currently looking for a motorcycle, and on Monday I took a look at a Kawasaki Z750 Bj. 2008 / First registration: 2010. Optical tip top and also technical (have made a short test drive). All maintenances are registered, except for the 24,000km inspection (the machine currently has 28,000km). However, the seller changed all liquids this year and had new TÜV made. Now to my question: – Would the machine be worth 4500 – 4800€? or what price? are you ready to pay? Thank you for your opinions. Greetings Ribz

  • SF classes for vans

    Hello everyone, I come from the car with a SF-Class of 28 and wanted to insure a new “delivery car”. (A car with truck registration) So I apply to the HUK24 and get the police with classification SF-20. After the request for correction they inform me that they have the SF20 for vans as the highest class. If you ask me, if I want to insure a car again after a year, then the last classification is valid again, i.e. 8 SF-Classen verl Is that correct? – Does the SF20 limit apply to all insurance companies for vans? -Does anyone here have a delivery car insured with a higher class than the SF20? -Can anyone recommend a cheap delivery car insurance? -Edit: Would I get out of the insurance at HUk24 again? (the “check” after a month still the classification by the pre-insurance). I naturally disagree with the loss of 8 discount years. Thank you. for tips!

  • Coolant changed Engine damage?

    Hello friends, I bought a used Yamaha Thundercat in 1997 and wanted to change the cooling fluid, watched a video from YouTube and did so. I only found the manual and found the operating instructions and found that I did not do it the way it is in the manual. Do I risk an engine damage? The following: I opened the hose at the left side of the water pump below or loosened the clamp and then from the hose of the n Radiator comes the cooling liquid drained, it is of course also a little out of the water pump, according to the manual one should unscrew the screw with the water pump and so blow and additionally two screws at the cylinder head should be opened and there also coolant should be drained… However, I did not do this, just loosen the hose that runs to the water pump and then filled with distilled water at the top in the radiator, the motorcycle approx. 1 minu running around the system to rinse after that again the liquid left out and filled up in the radiator with fresh coolant… Then just start the motorcycle and leave the radiator open so that it is ventilated… I found at the end that I only filled 1.5L, according to the manual belong in the cooling system 1.95L and 0.55 in the reserve tank… take that I have not drained the whole coolant, maybe there is air still inside I risk an engine damage? Bil d 1 Figure 2

  • Experience report Harley Rocker C

    Hello, the first season with the rocker is now over. It would be time to exchange some experiences. I am very satisfied with the motorcycle, driving behavior is fine, braking now . 500 kilometers a day are no problem. Would everything be fine if the extreme tire wear would not be at the 240 pelle. More than 4000 km it does not hold. I have now driven 8000 km and the second tire has again almost no profile…………and the new one costs again correctly. Has someone sc hon another factory mounted e.g. Metzeler ME 880. Unfortunately there are the additional front tyres not in the size 90/90, but only in the size 100/90 (?).If so please ask for info! Wishes all beautiful Christmas days and a good slide into the new year.Permanent, from the 24th 12th it will be back every day a little earlier hel

  • Large engine = large consumption??

    Hello, I always ask myself the question if a car with a lot of ps/cm3 really consumes more than a car with less PS/hubroom. A low-performance car you have to press constantly to get ahead with it. Best example highway: First it is very cumbersome to get the car to speed so you can drive on the AB and second the overcrowding process with a 70 PS gulf is in my opinion very uncomfortable! You almost need a start to be able to overcrowd safely. n 70 hp car with a 100 hp or 150 hp (you don’t really need more!) compare car, would the 70 hp car always have to pay the most on the motorway at approx. 130 KM/H. Would the consumption be higher than with the engine capacity-stronger cars? My incompetent logic tells me: The more engine capacity, the less speed, so the quieter you can run the car and the less fuel consumption. To be able to say what is most economical, one must know w o you drive the most. For people who drive a lot of AB at a speed of approx. 130 km/h upwards, a 150 hp car is probably cheaper than a 70 hp rotary organ, which must be constantly pressed out. For people who drive a lot of city is probably the low-performance small car first choice. But also I think you could drive a car with more engine capacity more economical than a weakling. A hybrid probably (if at all) only interesting for city drivers, but there comes m What do you say? Please tell me what the reality looks like!

  • With one of the noblest cars in the world!

    Hello, The reason I’m writing this post is because I’m interested in which of these three types you like best! Short introduction: 1. Type: Wiesmann MF 30: BMW six-cylinder with 2979 cm3 and 231 hp, top speed: 230 km/h, acceleration from 0-100 in 5.9 seconds.Here’s a picture 2. Type: Wiesmann MF 3: BMW six-cylinder with 3246 cm3 and 343 hp, top speed: 255 km/h, acceleration from 0-100 in 4.9 seconds, the outsizes correspond to those of the model MF 30. Here’s a picture 3. Type: Wiesmann GT: BMW-V8 with 4799 cm3 and 367 hp, top speed: 275 km/h, acceleration from 0-100 in 4.6 seconds.Here’s a picture Thanks in advance for all your contributions!

  • how satisfied with K1300S??

    Hello together I have to replace my K1200RS next year with a K1300S. Now I wanted to know how you are satisfied with it: how you can cope with the new switches but also generally p.s. what do you think of the color LavaOrange (I find it zimlich horny especially in the sun) below still a picture of my “old” many thanks already

  • Accident motorcycle purchased as accident-free

    Hello, I bought a Suzuki Bandit 650A, year 2005 for 3500 Euro. Is my first motorcycle. I bought the motorcycle from a Suzuki dealer near Fulda as accident-free. I, however, live 150 km away from Fulda. Yesterday (Thursday, 27.05.2010) I brought the motorcycle to my Suzuki dealer here on location, because I needed a new front tyre. This then took me to the factory when changing tyres. dt called and asked me if this was an accident motorcycle. I of course denied it and was a bit shocked. He showed me that the right fork had been fixed in any case and that was bad (stands 5mm too tight and has scratches from the straightening), moreover one sees with more detail that the fork bridge must have slipped under the steering stop. And that even I see as layman. My dealer on site recommended that I speak to the previous owner sol I did that. I looked for the number from the phone book and called him. He was also very surprised and didn’t know anything about it (he was the 2nd owner). Later in the evening he called me again, that he looked again in his purchase contract and that it would be there that the bike had had a driving accident, but that had been repaired. When I got the hand, I looked at it again and looked at it again in his purchase contract. I know that I have the opportunity to return the motorcycle, but I would rather not like that, because I have already paid more than 500 euros for inspection and the new tires. It would be best if he replaced the parts and with the 1st owner he called me, he knew nothing about it and was very surprised. He asked me that I would come by with him with the motorcycle, he could look at it and we would then clarify the thing as far as possible. asks if there is an expert report about the accident or something. I want to be sure that there is nothing on the frame if the force was so great that it pushed the fork bridge under the steering stop. Besides, my dealer here on the spot said that one should be sure that there is nothing on the other fork. That would mean that this also has to be measured, and, and, and… Has one of you ever experienced something similar or knows about someone? What do you think, what do you think I do? and should? MfG Beasti