Hello! I have a burglary damage to my vehicle. In the ABB’s of my insurance it says: “Don’t let the car be repaired completely or not professionally, we pay the necessary costs of a complete repair up to the amount of the replacement value reduced by the residual value”. Since I assume that the WWW and the RW of my car will hardly differ due to the age, I ask the question here, since otherwise I have to reckon with it, purely even I don’t know if I can get anything from my insurance (SB 300,-). It is questionable whether I can make a repair as a layman (who has already made durable body widths) which is considered to be professional. However, since the history also requires painting widths, I don’t know if one can speak of professional if it holds afterwards and everything is / remains ok, but the repaired areas do not look as if they had painted a paintr. It would be nice if you could give me a copy of my insurance policy. Ft could give. Best regards!
Author: 00c12f
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Set ZR 7 valves. Question regarding measurement
Hello, I’m just setting the valve play at my ZR7, here I’ve been provided with two instructions. Guide No. 1http://www.s-n.name/ZR7Forum/Ventile/Ventilspiel_002_tommi.htm Essentially, this statement is concerned: When piston number 1 is on OT, the following valves can be measured. No. 1: Inlet and outlet, No. 2: Outlet, No. 3: Inlet If piston number 4 is on OT, the following valves can be measured. No. 2: Inlet, No. 3: Outlet No. 4: Inlet and release instructions no.2https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0cJ0Ca1EUo I can summarize the explanation in this video: In the OT marking 1-4, for example, cylinder 1 stands when ignition –> Valves are closed and can be tested (one + outlet cylinder 1). Cylinder 4 is then pre-priming –> Valves overlap and a measurement is not possible. A complete revolution further up to the OT marking 1-4 is cylinder 4 when ignition –> Valves are closed and can be The same is done with cylinder 2+3 Now the conflict: the first variant is quite celebrated and applied in the ZR7 forum … I remember then to have set my GPZ according to the instruction No. 2. According to instruction No. 2, the respective cams are always horizontal to the head and this is a memory that remained for me from then on. The measurements for both variants are very different, therefore my question : Is variant 2 correct and therefore variant 1 wrong? I just remembered something. At that time I had a shop at hand, because I paid 1.20€-2.20€ per Shim + mail delivery. Now I can only find shops where it starts from 6,90€ per Shim + 6€ shipping ….has jmd alternative dealer at start? I thank you for helpful answers. LG
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Car sold, now lack available
Hello together, 2.5 months ago I sold a used car. The car was great in shot, even got HU without defects. Only on the oil pan it licked something. My hobby screwdriver and also the HU examiner suspected a leak on the seal of the oil pan. So I wrote it in the advertisement and wrote on the purchase contract “light oil loss is known to the buyer”. Now the buyer calls me and says his workshop has a leaky Simmerrin And according to his lawyer, my statement that the leak on the oil tank is suspected is a clear and definite statement. Now I’m just wondering if I’m the only one who describes the word “presumed” as a hypothetical cause, or if that really says an irrefutable truth?! I think that the buyer is reaching for the last straw to get the damage repaired. Thank you for your opinions!
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What do you think about the sale price of my little dick?
Hello municipality, I have to leave my TT, after almost 140tsd km in my possession, unfortunately, despite which I gave him last year a beauty cure. Schwacke does not even show me 6,000€… With comparable models there are simply too big differences to give a tendency, therefore I wanted to hear your opinion what you would do? Large data of my TT’s: – bj 12/2006 8J 2.0 – 192,000km – s-line inside – s-line sports package (deep and shiftway reduction) – 8 times matured on Alus, both tire sets newly purchased in 2018 – Aommer 18″ s-line rims, winter 16″ Audi Alus – color is Avussilber – Radio chorus with Bluetooth interface – Bose – hand switch – climate – etc The following repertures were carried out at the end of 2018: – crossbars – axle cuffs – rear dampers – All brakes and supports – rear 20mm gauge extension with ABE – hjs Downpipe with ABE – reinforced turbocharger – reinforced cylinder heads – control chain and water pump – SUV valve – software optimized about 295ps Looking forward to your opinion on what you could get for him or how I can put him on?
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Question about re-registration of a car within the family
Hello, I want to take over the vehicle from my father. The registration plates can remain on the car, the insurance is to be changed. The following is required: Registration certificate Part II (vehicle letter) Registration certificate Part I (vehicle note) Current proof of valid main examination (HU) (car new not necessary) Registration plates for registered vehicles (Not necessary because I keep the registration plates?) Electronic insurance confirmation number (eVB) Eligibility (SEPA or combined mandate with IBAN and BIC) for tax passport including registration confirmation (no identity card available). Do I really need a registration confirmation? So now my questions: Is the list complete? Does my father have to go with you? He can’t go with you due to illness. Is a authorisation sufficient or do I need nothing because I have the vehicle license? Many thanks for your efforts Mando
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Buy 125 rolls, please for advice
Hello together, I play with the idea of buying a scooter for short distances. I only have 2km to work, 5km to the gym, etc.. such things. I used to have a 50’s scooter, but that would be too lame for me, because I also want to drive at least short highway routes (5-10km). If he managed to do so 100-110 km/h would be enough for me. Have looked around me a little and in some points I am unsure. First of all to the models that I would have in mind: Aprilia SR125 Aprilia SR125 Motard Gilera Runner Piaggio Hexagon 150 Peugeot Sum Up 125 I’m unsure in 2 points. 1. 2-stroke or 4-stroke? I read here and there that the 2-strokes are supposed to be more fun (some better acceleration) and the 4-strokes would not get warm so fast in winter (where I will probably use it very little in winter). 2. Used or new? I’m also very unreliable. I don’t know if it makes more sense for my requirements for 800-1 400€ used to buy a 5000-15000km or rather a new model for 2000-250€. For example, the Piaggio Hexagon tells me very much and you read almost only good, against it is that all around the 20 years old are even if they have only run around the 10-15000. Does that really make sense? In addition, in the case of a used due to my work at present I have no possibility to drive around somewhere in Germany and to test scooters, let alone pick up. And even if it’s just a scooter that might have run 6000, you should try it out, right? Well, I hope you can help me and maybe give me some thought. MfG Alex
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Baotian QT-50 – Understanding the DZB
Servus together. I have in my scooter both a 25ger CDI as well as an “extra” DZB or sensor. I read that these sensors often cause the scooter to lose noticeably power when starting, because some ignitions are omitted and thus less pressure is built up. Therefore, I would like to know if it makes sense to just build it out. The CDI makes sure that I can’t drive faster than 25kmh anyway?! A D.Ring is not installed! That’s why there should be a power gain in the acceleration?! I ask because I have read here and there that you should be careful with the motors or the speed, because otherwise the thing is flying over your ears. Only “why” escapes my knowledge. Is it possible for someone to explain me? Thank you for your time!
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Pegasus Sky 125 (7457/081)
Hello, I have bought the scooter above. Used. Not yet paid The seller (private) I pressed from 300€ to 170€. Nevertheless: You do not get the part. By e-starter he comes then iwann. I filled the burner this morning, nearly 6L and drove from WOB to BS approx. 35km. Tank is now almost empty, maybe there are still >=0,5L inside. So over land it runs. In the city traffic he and, as I said, it is an ordeal to make him run again. Wouldn’t my brother have been there with a car to bridge, the battery was now empty, I think I would have… Summary: Almost 6L used for 35km, runs only at full throttle round and battery quickly empty. Can someone tell me wodran I have to turn to make the burner fit again? P.S. has already spent almost 100€ on short-term identification marks, signs and insurance. Ohja, TüVen I have to have it too.
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Roller loses power
Hello dear community, I have the following problem with my 50’s scooter Motowell Magnet City 2 clocks. But before here a list of the things I have made on the scooter: Since the scooter was strangled after purchase over the throttle ring removed from the previous owner but I wanted to drive “legally”, I bought the ring and built it in. Unfortunately I broke the Variomatics during the installation and so I changed it immediately against a new one. The weights are the same. In addition, I had already installed a new air filter months ago before this repair, because the machine lost power from 30kmh and didn’t get more than 30kmh. I wanted to turn on the scooter even slower, as if it didn’t get air. After the air filter change everything went perfectly. Even after the installation of the new Variomatics and the throttle ring. The scooter relaxed its 55km. Now the problem: My scooter loses power again. But not so much As before the air filter change that it goes into the iron at 30kmh, but somehow more undefined. First it goes off from the stand super and gets well on its way. Hardly it is after three kilometers warm and there comes a little headwind, it starts to slow down with fully turned up gas. Then I go back with the gas it picks up again ride. On a medium-sized climb it does this already earlier or also with headwind. Then I always have to take some gas away and then k Is there any clue where I could look for? Thank you for your ideas LG Jack