Good Arbend. I need a amp. for my tweeters, since they are now active (by radio) Will used up to 120 € or new up to 200 €. It should have no filters, Basboost or any other frills. It should already supply 80 watts per channel at 4 ohms with low heeling. Prefer me an Audison VR 209 or LRx 2,150. Who has heard what good at the DOME already, out with the spoken ! P.S. has it warm rather than analytical.
Author: 00c12f
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Drive semi-automatics with automatic driver’s license?
I think I’ll put this in here, should be the most suitable section. To the topic: A neighbor of us wants to make a new attempt to make the car driver’s license and consider having to train on automatic vehicles based on a tip from her father. Therefore, to my knowledge, she should drive only automatic vehicles later. But how does this work with automated gears (half-automatic)? These can be operated automatically or you can drive them automatically. switch manually (by manually triggering the switching process with “+” or “-“), you just don’t have to couple any more, this is still done automatically (there is no clutch pedal). We were a bit at a loss now whether you can drive semi-automatics with a car driver license limited to automatic vehicles (they are somehow automatic and somehow also not…) or whether the driving licence only refers to full automatics (converter gearboxes). Or semi-automatics only in the automatic mode (so not in manual mode, how did you want to control it?) or or or. Does anyone else know? I told her not to take the lead on automatic vehicles, because you restrict yourself quite strongly for later and the advantage of automatics in driving school lasts at most a few hours (namely the “train phase” for the conventional coupling and switching), the disadvantage of being allowed to drive only automatic vehicles, but possibly for a lifetime. question (see above) is still unresolved in the room. Ciao!
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Suspicion of subsequent change in vehicle –> 3 points+75€??
Hello everybody! a tüv forum or similar I didn’t find, so it will probably fit best here: a colleague of mine came with my car in a police control – standard control. They examined the vehicle (it is a little deeper, track broadening + thicker flaps) and started to nagging directly: they thought it would be thought that the rear tyres were not sufficiently free-accessible, as rubber tracks on the inner wheelbox are to be seen. The fact is: on my car everything is 100% registered (was at the tuv south) and nothing has been subsequently manipulated or similar (would not have had the know-how). The rubber tracks could at most stir therefore, that the car was temporarily overloaded during a move – however, it may also be that this is still from the previous owner. The fact is that it is so registered and since nothing has been changed. threatened penalty: 3 points and 75 euros…! I must probably go to the tuv/dekra and there is a pre-freeze certificate, which from which is filled out after the inspection and then goes to the registration office+ from there again to the police. I understandably am a bit upset, since the accusations really do not apply in the least. does someone have experiences with similar or. knows if this often happens that the police is wrong? I am most interested in how those will react to the tuev/dekra… after all everything is registered and you can not just assume that the In addition, it is important to note that there is a need to ensure that the data are either waste or that “what has been changed” has been introduced. mfg, ben
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Right-front left??? Yes, no, maybe, but only on rainy days…
So, dear forum, after I have come across such a super clear “right-for-left”?: yes, no, probably, only on rainy days”-street, here is a nice photo of the great place. To orientation: the first entrance on the photo quite sharply to the right leads in fact into the pedestrian zone (but unfortunately it is not around this one!), the entrance leads immediately afterwards to the right – as you can see – to a public parking lot (note the “Ein railway roads sign and the “not lowered, because interrupted” curb!!!!) and the entrance behind from the right is of course the exit of this parking lot, nicely marked with the red “here-to-here-I-not-go in, but come out” sign. Other front signs, which are covered by trees or only on even days, there is unfortunately no. So, volunteers before, who can provide information about right-front-left, driveway, etc for this great exit from the Parkpl and explain the “one-way street” sign and also the “here-come-you-not-pure” sign plausibly? Greetings from the Ländle, m20082
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Curving – Stupidness or inability to steer?
Hello municipality! When I look at what is currently going on with corner cutters on Germany’s country roads, then the above question pushes itself on me massively. There the people drive to a good third of their vehicle on the counterroad and look at you also completely outraged, if you “wag” it to come to them. And that then you do not drive also promptly into the ditch, to make room for them then is the summit. And as we all know from the American films, the vehicle explodes immediately. 🙄 If people are not able to drive a winding track at 80km/h, why don’t these arm lights slow down? Do you worry, someone thinks they’re a failure or what? Some of them are also on the tracks with 50 nic Does he be able to stay in their tracks (and no! I’m not talking about 80-year-old grandma, I’m talking about people between 20 and 50!). Does anyone have a reasonable explanation???
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Properly slow down
Hello! I have been driving an automatic car for about 2 weeks now. I used to use the engine brake very often, which I only rarely do with the new car. I do have Tiptronic and switch off from time to time to use the engine brake, nevertheless I brake significantly more, than with my previous switchcar. Now I wanted to ask how to brake properly. Is it better to brake easily and for that longer or should one brake late and then stronger? feel that the brakes have vibrated more with my cars than with other people. This often comes from the fact that you have warped brake discs, which come from too warm brakes. I want to avoid this now. I am also currently someone who slows down for a long time – not so strong for it. Would be nice if someone knows how to brake the most resource-friendly. // Joscha