Author: 00c12f

  • Motor starts only after several attempts to start!

    Hello! I have a 2000er Clio with 1.2l and 58hp. My problem is that the sporadic starts after several attempts and that only as soon as the outside temperature is over 10°C. The warmer it gets out the worse it runs in idle. But in normal driving mode it runs normal. Spark plugs and cables are new! Can someone help me by chance??? He has no error code, that’s why I really don’t know any more! LG

  • Original speaker cable – Maximum load capacity

    Hi, I’d like to build a little better system in my car… but I don’t want to do much… should jez keien 43939 db bring I thought of a nice double-din headunit (which is still nciht clear) and 4 speakers… the front ones 16s and the rear ones 13s… I don’t think the 200 watts of the hu will be enough… (200 watts is so the normal value I think) that’s why maybe a little stronger comes in… so and jez to the actual topic… with how much load can I load the original speaker cables? and what recommendations do you have regarding the speaker? I thought maybe of such 3-way coax 16er front and rear respectively 13er kickbaesse? or what better constellations there are? will only have a nice sound and I can turn up if necessary car is a 2002 corolla e12

  • a not entirely logical problem

    Hello! I have a rather illogical test with my system, and wanted to ask you for help. First of all everything I have installed. Let’s start with the radio that is a Pioneer DEH 5800 MP. Then it goes by chinch 4 channel behind into the spare wheel dump. then work a Next Q24 and an Audio System F2-500. Front system is a Peerless Definition 6 and as a sub comes an Atomic Quantum 12″ to use. Power supply is a 35mm2 cable for additionalbatt also in the spare wheel mul A relay is installed between the two batteries, which switches with the ignition plus. Before the Twister is still a Dietz Powercap 1F switched. So much to the system, the whole thing has already worked for about 2 months, and before about two weeks I switch on the radio after the work, and only some vibrations come to light, the TMT’s even got almost equal voltage, they have moved so to speak extremely slowly. I nat. immediately the radio again, just without music at home danger On the way home thought, and then the chinch cable came into my mind, because I couldn’t really move it cheaply, and it gets squeezed at one point. So at home everything is taken apart, chinch exchanged, but look there, the same again. Then I drove to a buddy, because my radio hung in his car and it works, without mukking. later I noticed, when the chinch is off on the radio, and I touch the contacts, the vibrations also come. Ok, Final stage down, another stage temporarily installed, but the same again. which is still really funny, when I put on all 4 channels from the chinch on the radio, and I touch the contacts, the vibrations come only very quietly, but the chinch for the bass is stuck, but on the other end no connection to the stage, and I then touch the contacts, the vibrations are quite louder. Previously I tried to pull the radio mass with to the mass point in the suitcase room, where I was already with our electronic baser, and he got me on the idea with the broken stage, but it can’t be if I hang another one, which works elsewhere, and with me exactly the same noises come. If you make a frequency generator to the chin, instead of the radio, everything works fine. So, a lot of text, I hope someone takes the time to read it all, and vie Lightly there are jjemanden, who also has ne idea, what I can still try. Aso, car is an Audi B4 Kombi Thanks for your help already in advance. Dennis

  • Beginner concept: Is this how it works?

    Hi At the end of this month comes my new S3, which I ordered with the cheapest radio. The chorus comes in at ebay and I finally wanted to install a reasonable system, because I am a small sound fetishist.. Unfortunately I don’t know myself at all in the Car HiFi world and hope you can help me. I collected the following by reading all possible forums and threads:TMT Eton RS 160HT Recommendation?AMP Steg K4.01SUB Hertz Energy ES 380AMP Steg K2.01 As HU we d the Clarion MAX973HD Navi built in, with high-low adapter, because it does not have a preamplifier output. The Audi speakers come in behind, operated by the HU. Do I get all this so fully active, or is the whole concept garbage? I would be happy about every tip/opinion.. thx PS: Maybe I would let the whole thing be installed, because I don’t have so much time. Can you recommend someone in the area between Aachen and Cologne for this?

  • Problems with motor electronics

    Good morning motor-talk community, for about a week I have had a problem with my Mazda 3 (BL) year 2009 2.0 DISI (151 hp) with start-stop automatic. During the ride the Mazda suddenly went out in a left turn at about 10-15 km/h and the pointers for speed and speed have been knocked out for a short time and then dropped to 0. I could not start the Mazda and the board computer is constantly up and down. All display elements have w After a conversation with my Mazda dealer I completely landed the two batteries and installed them again. He suspected empty batteries, which I could confirm at the beginning, but that was not the solution of the problem. The symptoms are at the moment as follows: 1st scenario: Car can sometimes not be opened with the radio remote control. Then the A flicker when starting up. After 2-3 attempts it starts and drives without problems. During the ride there are no difficulties and everything works after my estimation. After approx. 40 km drive no abnormalities can be noticed. 2nd scenario: There is unfortunately another scenario. Then the car can be opened without problems with the radio remote control. If I use the Mazda at the It also starts immediately and you can start immediately. However, after about 1-2 km the board computer fails and always tries to restart. The power steering fails again and again. All indicators flicker then all the time. Headlights go out again and again when I give gas. If I turn off the Mazda then and want to start again exactly what happens in the first time. As soon as it runs again, however, you can drive without any problems and there are no abnormalities. The batteries have been reinstalled on 05.2017 and are original Mazda batteries. I have now searched for different amounts for about a week and cannot find a solution. Did any of you have similar problems and happen to know the solution? Greeting Eugen

  • The old rear rack theme

    Hello, so I’ve been on the road in the forum for a while now and have decided to get the registration done. I’ve been wondering for some time what everybody has against boxes in the rear shelf. I’ve been doing this since I was 18 and can only say that I haven’t heard a system that sounds as good as mine. And I’ve been to many meetings etc. And the safety aspect is given the fact that the storage weighs about 40 kg and out of ma Ssive wood is probably secondary. As difficult as the part is, it can’t fly around. Gravity has a word to say. And the music always has to play in the front is also nonsense. On a concert, of course, you don’t stand with your back to the stage, but you don’t hear anything from the singers anyway. Everything you hear comes from the loudspeakers, which not only hang at the front of the stage, but everywhere in the hall. When I see how much work some people do buy boxes with a separate tweeter and then put them in the front of the taps – I can only touch my head. Manufacturers are already thinking about it when they bring loudspeakers with an integrated tweeter on the market. That has the advantage that they are quickly installed and you don’t have to put unnecessarily 1000 cables. Where we are already at the next point, the speaker cables from the amplifier to the speakers are clearly shorter, therefore not so much sound goes into the speakers. Most cars already have loudspeakers in the front anyway, when they play on the radio very quietly and there are decent speakers in the rear, one has fine surround sound. Still ́n Woofer pure and already you can enjoy his music in 5.1. Almost like at home. Visually it looks much more horny, if you look in the back and then sit left and right the boxes and in the middle a thick baser is located. Due to the large housing (case room) the Bas sounds And as already mentioned, it looks definitely cooler. If you have looked at all this and once you have heard a proper boxing system, every clever person will probably notice that all these sayings are nonsense. Looking forward to your contructive contributions. The Audi driver greets you.

  • No way!

    Hello friends, I just wanted to tell you that I have been active: Eclipse CD8454 XT ringradiator @ AudioArt A-120 Dynaudio MW160 @ Zapco Z600C2-SL TC Sounds TC3000 12″ @ Zapco C2K 9.0-XD and now everything set. first measured the level of each individual chassis, then set LZK and phase. today I have set the EQ and the sub to it. unfortunately I have to tell you that you now have NO CHANCE more sonically soo and bangs well hihi. besides I have the HT both verp and now the whole music comes funny everything from between the tweeters. well sometimes also from the tweeters. but also the percussions and so on. full of KOOL! and the people always sing exactly in the middle, well sometimes the side sings. that depends on the song on it. at least eats now like doomi and eisi and teami and lord nikon and so all ham want only for the eisi tuts sorry, has so much money for hertz naussmisse and when he listens to me he will completely tr be aurig :[ OG carauTCohanZZ

  • What to think of Hifonics FALCON

    servus, I once thought about my concept, and I came up with the idea as soon as I get my new HU, and the active softness has that I drive my front totally active, i.e. per TMT one level and the HTs also one (so for both hts one toamen) Now I got an offer for 3 Hifonics FALCON for 110 euro which would have had enough power to fire the front. The idea had me so packed but wanted to hear your opinion about the end levels. The Falcon is also a the good old series I let myself be told, just like the Zeus VIII I have on the sub so I would assume that the Falcon are not so sloppy at all. Let’s go. Greetings axle PS: Olli if you read this take your heart fasten please never stiffen again in a subcase with hot glue until I have found out what has been trickling I almost got mad.

  • Inspection intervals

    Hello, my wife is since yesterday proud owner of a Mazda 3 BK 1.6 FLH with automatic. The car is with its 14 years of age still top in shot (only outside 2-3 small traces of usage, but not worth mentioning). The car comes from second hand and was by 2015 by the first owner always check-booked. The second owner (17/18 years, first car) has maintained the car optically so far and also the change of all liquids always durc This is what I would like to do now (let) and ask for your advice, which is exactly what happens now at approx.130000km. Immediately I would have said: Oil change interior filter air filter spark plugs climate maintenance (he has used in between only such a ‘hygiene can’ from Nigrin) Where I am now unsure: transmission oil gasoline / fuel filter The brake fluid was last made 04/2017. vtl. a public “Sheet” of Mazda for the intervals? Thanks in advance and many greetings Marcel

  • Carburettor flange and water flange seal with Hylomar?

    Hello, I have a problem with the rear water connection to my ABT engine. It just doesn’t want to get tight. Although I have already used a new flange including new seal. Nevertheless, there is always some water out there and I want to ask if you can possibly use Hylomar for it. I also have some problems with the carburettor flange. So not the lower one. But with the paper seal that is in between, it is also not quite as dense. I would have to be able to use the rest of the Hylomar without any problems, right? How do I use Hylomar correctly? Both sides lubricate in? Although at the back of the engine, this is going to be damn difficult.