MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • Tracked by bad luck…still one on it again

    Hello, after just a little bit more than a year I already got another one on it. The following situation: I drive on the road and want to turn left. Before I see that also one wants to turn left. So I stop because the curve is mostly parked and also just one from the other road wants to turn right into the road. Then she hits in front of me the return walk and sets back without looking. Crack… She then called her father because she did not give me a car. When he arrived he then gave me the insurance, the insurance number and his data. How do I now best proceed again? Tomorrow morning immediately to the expert and after expert reports had repaired? In hindsight also stupid that I did not call the police, not that he still remembered that I drove on it. Please briefly for tips. Thank you very much Thomas

  • 2 Estimates of insurance

    Hi, I got one to the car, paint damage with Delle. Now I was in a workshop and had an estimate made and sent to the opposing insurance company, had then received a letter that the amount is accepted so, you would need now still photos and the original invoice. Now to the problem….I am back to the workshop and have presented this so, answer: We can not make pictures and also not send them, we also always have bad experience mi t Insurances were made. I was serviced there of course! Then I went to another workshop and with them all would fit so far but that their estimate is 200-300€ more expensive! My question is I can call at the insurance to which the situation signs and the more expensive estimate submit? Or do they now cross the border and I am the stupid one?

  • What is the possible loss of value?

    Hello, car had an accident. fenders in front, mirrors and fenders in the rear have to be replaced. Door has to be co-painted because you would otherwise see it according to the workshop. Mustang V6, US model one year old has cost new 38,000 euros and has run 5,200 kilometers. Get for the repair a certificate and 5 years warranty on the repair. Damage approx. 5,000 euros. No carrying parts were hit on the body. How high would the possible loss of value thereby be? I have z was Googled afterwards I understood the explanation but somehow did not. For your answers I thank you in advance. Greeting Blade

  • Driving licence class A ? Wouldn’t it be nice?

    Moin, at the moment I try to get into the world of two-wheelers and do my driving license of class A ( before only class B). Now the weather finally gets better and you see more and more motorcycles driving on the road and wonders, when am I finally with it? This question will probably stay open for a long time, because unfortunately I have no experience on a motorcycle and the instructor unfortunately would like to wait for me, so that I experience with acquaintances sa Of course there is also the problem here, where can you get some experience here if not in the driving school? My acquaintances have to 98% no motorcycles and with the other 2% unfortunately the distance of more than 350 km is a small hurdle to just pass by. Also it is questionable if you can just practice with their motorbike, since not everyone is blessed with a large plot of land. Do you know this problem or would you have an idea how I could get the necessary experience so that the driving instructor can continue with the practical hours? I had already thought about hanging on to the offer/search board at the supermarket nearby, but is the question if you can just do this like that? Parallel to my driving instructor where I wanted to do my driving license, I already have about 6 other driving schools if they could give me otherwise a few practical hours, so far unfortunately without success. Maybe someone here has an idea what to try. Thanks already for your help.

  • Buying advice classic Big Bike

    Hello, I would like to separate myself from my Vespa GT200L this summer and buy a motorcycle. For this I am looking for a machine that is suitable for my 196cm height. I am also more of a comfortable driver. Visually speaking, e.g. the Yamaha XS1100, Kawasaki Z1100ST or Kawasaki KZT1100. I come on specifically these three models, as they are listed on the used vehicle platform of my trust nearby. They are in the range of 3.500 Euro what about From the number of kilometres they are 51,000 (XS1100), 9.000 (Z1100ST) and 48,000 (KZT1100). Overall, I am not sure if such old machines (’82 to ’84) are recommended at all or if there are perhaps better (newer) alternatives. And are 1100ers useful as everyday machines? Overall, I am very surprised and happy about tips in every direction. Thanks in advance! Molgs

  • Battery behavior plausible?

    Hello, would like to hear your opinion about my gel battery (BJ unknown). Here’s the whole story: 4 weeks ago Ignition with handle heating started, starting was no longer possible (but still gelled), after pushing then again i.o. The BC data went on reset. For 4 weeks the following routes between the start operations: 30km 30km, 30km, 150km, 30km, 30km, 150km, 25km, 1km, 25km, 10km, 10km, then 2 days of service Had then a wackler at the rear t found and went out today, and I hit the ignition, so about 30 seconds without any consumer. Strangely, the rear light didn’t turn on when the ignition was fired (was not sure if it was supposed to work at all), so I wanted to start the machine. It started, after 2 seconds again. After that, it didn’t turn on again, but it was still inflated or was not completely dead. However, the voltage at the repeated start attempt has collapsed to such an extent that days After 30 minutes the charger showed 75% charge and after only three hours the charger showed 100%. Charged with 2A. Especially this section is very Spanish. Battery is installed again, after the charging process was 12.65V. Motorcycles started directly, speed depending on the idle speed approx. 14V, at higher speed slightly more (15V) With 3000 revolutions). So I assume that the Lima and controllers are still OK. Two, three times started and with everyone starting the battery voltage went down by 0.1V. Seems normal to me. Have a bigger tour tomorrow and ask me: Is the broken or just old and too much short distance? My car has always made relatively little of this and motorcycle batteries I can hardly estimate because of lack of experience. In case of emergency I could exchange the tomorrow morning, but that would be there nn such a Hauruck thing where I would have to buy lower quality expensive on site. I prefer to order there much online.

  • Small SUV for the highway -> BUILDING

    Salü together, I’m looking for a new vehicle. I’m currently driving a Suzuki Swift, which doesn’t come through the control anymore. I mainly drive the highway (about 90km per day), live in Switzerland (so I don’t have to be a hell machine in terms of speed). It’s important to me, reliability and inexpensive maintenance as well as little consumption. So a bit more train than my current one would not be so bad. I’m an absolute Autonullplan driver, I can’t park and Leave everything about the car to the garage … it should therefore be really foolproof in terms of handling 😛 A higher sitting position would be great because I have the feeling that I can see more then. Car should be used and cost a maximum of 10k. Of course I have arranged a few cars, which I find optically very nice (more I can unfortunately not judge due to my “experts”)… favourite would be the Peugeot 2008, followed by the Renault Captur. Also Nissan Quashqai and I would like Citroen Cactus. The Peugeot would fit very well into the budget, I’m just unsure about the reliability? What do you recommend to me? Which brand is most reliable? What details do I have to pay attention to? Thank you for bringing helpless people some light into the darkness of the auto jungle. Merci Nicole

  • Young cars with high mileage

    Moin Moin, I regularly look for cars in vehicle exchanges, which are old and have many km on it, but are well maintained there (15 and older, 200tkm and more). Recently, however, I have come to talk to friends again and again, whether more modern cars, with running performances in the same height potential have. I am talking about less ex-taxes, but more about – wherever the cars come from – “normal cars”. What do you think: you can have a three-year-old car with 1 20, 150 or even more than 200tkm buy? The price differences may be considerable (out of 30-50%) which creates a buffer for any repairs. However, the cars are of course not free. A4 & 3s with such LL are idR at 10,000€ upwards. Comparable up to 50,000 about 500€ above. First of all I would like to know if someone has done this before. Are three-year-old ex-taxis perhaps the better choice after all? (C, E class) In principle, present as next car, but in vain have searched for experiences. LG and many thanks for the answers. // edit Here are two examples:https://suche.mobile.de/…/details.html?…https://suche.mobile.de/…/details.html?…

  • Running power purchase contract – mileage vehicle deviates. What to do?

    Hello dear Motortalk municipality, after mature consideration I decided to buy a VW Arteon. Car is about 1 year old, purchase contract signed at the VW Autohaus on 9.8.18. Car was driven only by the sales manager, one has a good feeling. Running performance lt purchase contract 17,000km. Today then finally the day of collection: – winter bikes are missing (still in a branch…) – Navi SD card is missing – second key is not possible, replacement was still learned today the vert However, the car has run almost 20,400km. For me the maximum of 10,000km/year is a clear difference. Since I have no experience with such situations (like most of them) my question is how to proceed, or what will probably be offered to you. “must” e.g. with a tank voucher or similar? How much € are almost 20% more mileage than agreed with such a relatively new car “value”? Because of the running ability g of course also depends on the return purchase value guaranteed by VW in 3 years I actually do not have a good feeling to solve the problem by “tank voucher” or similar. Should one even insist on undoing the whole business because here a substantial property as the mileage differs substantially? Thank you for your help. Greeting Max

  • Compact or middle class? Civic or Mondeo

    Hello, I’ve been looking for a new vehicle for a long time. Since I’m not in a hurry at the moment, I’m taking it easy and often reading along with you. I’ve arrived at two models, and I’m happy to be open for alternatives. Compact Lasse: Honda Civic Limousine, BJ 2018, Executive Version (top equipment, even rear seats heated, full leather), 182 hp with CVT transmission. Used with EZ in 2018 for around 22000€. Great for space in front and back, boot with 519L auc h more than sufficient. Luggage compartment is a little bit spartanic, i.e. no eyelets and hooks. You could use your own hand. Attachment load 800kg. Medium class: Ford Mondeo 5 door or tournament, BJ 2017, 203 or 240 hp, 2.0 EcoBoost with automatic, at least Platinum equipment + ST-Line on top. Various packages such as Winter I + II and Business I + Design III. Of course has electric seats through the ST-Line and also quite a lot of SA. Attachment load 2t used car prices at around 27000€ My e Driving performance will probably be only 15tkm in the near future. Currently change of residence + switch to comfortable public funds. I can not estimate it yet. Insurance prices have already been checked. There is only a marginal difference, so this does not matter. I find the decision quite difficult. It is a comparison between apple and pear. The difference in the purchase of 500€ doesn’t make me really crazy now. What to do? What would be the more meaningful e and more durable, more reasonable (if any) selection? Greetings