Servus, the topic ‘which moped can I throttle for A2’ will have been discussed extensively in many forums. However, lack of precision does do me a bit; what does the *original* performance in this context mean? Already clearly I can’t buy an R1, throttle it to 70kw and then throttle it to 35kw. Is the original performance about the model number, homologation in Germany, or about the initial approval or performance at delivery defined? after my research is not clear, so if I buy a machine in whose letter a service is noted below 70kw, then there is a basis for argument that it is permissible to throttle it, right? Maybe someone can bring in here with a clue clarity. Greetings and thank you for your support!
Author: 00c12f
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Driving school motorcycle thrown over for the second time
Hello, I’m a bloody beginner as a motorcyclist, honestly I haven’t even been riding a bike for years… now I decided at 25 years for the direct entry A and actually totally looked forward to it. After a few hours on the 125s, which ran quite well, I then threw the Big Z650 right in the first hour. Had too little body tension during the danger braking and then could not hold it anymore… Well, we thought i Ch. Today then double hour overland. Lief so far quite well, was already fully happy and was fun … and then in a long drawn short uphill I had a glance error. Too far looking outward and of course also drove there out of the curves. Could it still slow down, so that it almost only fell slowly and slightly. But great for the emotional situation of course is not ?? Now I am motivated on the one hand to make it better but of course in the joy also totally subdued… How were you at the beginning? Did you also have umfallers, start problems, etc. and then everything went well until the exam? LG Jessi
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Direct insurance for beginners + experience with WGV Optimal
Huhu I have already mentioned my preferred car, which I do not own at this time An Audi A4 (B5) 1.8T. In car insurance comparisons via aspect-online.de he gave me the WGV Optimal as the cheapest insurance, then the Admiral Direkt. In another insurance comparison the Admiral Direkt came out as the cheapest provider, but with almost the same information about 100€ more expensive per year than the offer at aspect-online. As Schreddi said so nicely: Quotation: Original written by Schreddi Now briefly to my situation: 18 years young, participant in BF17, driving licence since May 2009. Currently I am still living with my parents near Nuremberg. From September I will move to NRW in the course of a dual studies to study there, while the practical phases are in Erlangen. 1. Now I wonder if the advantages, which has a “normal” insurance against a direct insurance, especially the contact person on site, still count the same, if I am anyway in NRW and sometimes in Bavaria. Suppose I have a damage case in NRW, but the contact person is from Nuremberg, what is then? 2. Are direct insurances generally recommended to novice drivers? Even after Google search I am not optimally sure whether this is a direct insurance company or not, I just take it strongly. I hope e, you can give me some tips and advice (: Greeting Steffen
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The problem of authorisation
Hello I turn to you today with a huge problem and hope very much that someone can help me here. We bought a BMW E38 this week and wanted to register it immediately, however, we lacked the vehicle license. According to registration: without vehicle license no registration. We asked the seller if he still had this one, unfortunately he didn’t have one. So we turned to the previous owner. Now comes the next blow. He had an export license on the car and thus s ind original vehicle license and letter were withdrawn. He had an export vehicle license and probably also letter, but he can not find it anymore. The car never left Germany.How can I let the car back? In the vehicle letter we received to the car is in the last line: replacement vehicle letter. What does that mean? I hope so much that someone can help me.
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Switch from 200 (W124) to SLK 200 (R170)
1 1/2 years ago I bought a 200 (W124) year 1989 from my family and am actually satisfied with the car. When I got it, it had 140,000 original kilometers down. Now it has about 155,000 km down. What bothers me, however, are the repairs, which are of course always unexpectedly in the house. Although I look up the vehicle and regularly oil, water, tires etc. (Mercedes workshop, ATU and Free W So far, about 3,000 euros have been collected for shock absorbers, springs, crossbars, cables in the engine compartment, coolers and and and… I don’t know how to proceed and think about buying a SLK. I drive really little (about 10,000 km a year). Is that even more expensive? Sure, Mercedes driving costs money, but for the 15,000 km alone I find 3,000 euros in repairs quite a lot of money. Or is the SLK? What do you think? Switch to the SLK or stay with the W124? Greetings from Hamburg!
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short info SLK 350 cost!
Insurance: 35% sfk19 I pay 42euro in the month for full cash. Fuel consumption….city traffic 12-14liter…autobahn you can come on 10 liters,,,, but even after 500km have empty the tank…that means 70liter that is 14 liters sprit if you run the car so properly…I had an average speed of 130km/h….on the a6 down to the a5 to basel….and it also had traffic….tank was empty exactly after 501km: tax in the year still approx.240euro inspections si And not to be seen every year, but after driving kilometers…that is, the one has the same in the year of the other in 1.5 or 2 years…so not as expensive as you think…I paid 850 euros for the last inspection …there was oil change filter air conditioning filling and what is so part of the inspection…I think that goes in order for such a car…loss of value is certainly also there at slk, but he has a very high reselling value….is in many magazines and te so stated also at the adac. mature you should buy yourself once good and that will certainly hold one to 2 years or more if you only drive in the summer…. you buy cheap… you just need twice as much and not get away cheaper. At the 350 you should think about it because of the winter tires or better you should know that you can only alufelgen on it and only from size 225….also that makes the 350 certainly a little more expensive than the 200….all in all I would say it As I said, it depends on how much percentage and sfk you have and then I pay less with the 350 than some others with the 200s….By the way, it also depends on the insurance company….zb…with alliance I get a discount that I only get because I work in chemistry….ask me no one why…they do it so…I have already asked why, they said that is from above so…presumably one thinks that the chemical worker is the better payer or something… Of course, the spare parts of the 350 are certainly more expensive than the 200s, but that’s probably clear..or!!!
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Car still admitted to deceased mother, no residence in DE, how to insure?
The car is 24 years old, hardly worth anything (maximum 800€), but we are about 30 days a year in Germany (lives permanently abroad) and have placed it with acquaintances who occasionally leave the car. The insurance of my grandmother is very expensive (435€ liability) for the 2-3 thousand km we drive every year. However, we still want it b But now we have a problem, neither I, nor my mother have any proof regarding damage freedom class, no fixed residence in Germany (only a letter address with acquaintances) because you live for more than 50 years and I have been abroad since birth. On our local insurance contracts and modesty there is nothing like that, although my mother drives 45 years without accident. What would you recommend? With which insurance is it worth it to call (I can’t complete online forms because of lack of certain data such as damage-freedom class)? The current insurance thinks any change would be more expensive…can that be true?
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Selling used cars properly?
Good morning, I sold my car via autoscout24. The buyer wants me to bring the vehicle through the TÜV (it’s actually only 10 months away) but I can understand it anyway. Now we have stayed in such a way that we meet with him at the registration point and make the transfer. He wants to make a test drive and then pay cash. Since I have to drive with two cars about 100km to the registration point, the question arises with me, how can I make a pre-contract a How do I secure the test drive? What must be considered…?