MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • Installation of additional instruments and questions on donors

    Due to the HEI thread from Gedoensrat, I am currently hard to think about whether I am not retrofitting a few additional ads with my Buick. Just to not fully spam the thread from Gedoensrat and to keep a certain clarity, I have now opened my own thread. I would like to retrofit ads for: – Speed – Water temperature – Oil pressure – Volt. Since a few in my circle of acquaintances have had good experiences with VDO, I would like to al I would also like to take the matching encoders/switches from VDO but the first questions come up with me. My 455cui has only one warning display from my factory for water temperature and oil pressure. I would like to keep these. At VDO there are switches that can both display a value and give a warning signal. I found out that the switch for oil pressure a 1/4 inch x 18 Gewin Only what kind of thread the switch has for the water temperature in the suction bridge, I could not find out so far. What I found was an indication 1/2 inch x 14 NPT but if that fits? Maybe one of you knows that. Oil pressure I would take this. Pressure indicator up to 5 bar, warning message if the water temperature sensor is below 0.5 bar. If the size is right for the water temperature sensor of 1/2×14, there is only one variant with warning switch and this one here. Max. display up to 120°C, Warnton from 103°C. The question that arises here is enough for the measuring ranges for the motor? I would install the whole thing in the glove compartment. Where and how exactly, I would only deal with it later. With the schematic for a better overview. Here you can also recognize the two currently installed switches.

  • Mercedes W203 Kombi EZ 06/2003

    the TÜV is due in June for above MB and it has been noted at the last HU the following ; track rod joint ( head ) front starting game brake line rusted rear fuel lines now I have obtained 2 estimates and am now overburdened ; the 1st estimate amounts to 782 € of the 2nd estimate amounts to 993 € not yet taken into account ; oil change , brake pads , brake fluid change and air filters exchange and replenishing the air conditioning system or renewing the liquid Now consider whether I should invest this or buy a good used combination again …. What do you think about this ???

  • Windscreen wiper bracket Fires against disk, when buying used cars, who is liable?

    Hello, today something very stupid happened to me. I looked at a car, when opening the bonnet, (the owner just changed the windscreen wipers, which I had not paid attention to at all), bangs the left wiper holder against the windscreen, there were several approx. 15cm long cracks and a big… no matter what the compelette windshield must be renewed. At the time of the damage, the car was melted on the owner, he is still. Then had The owner called the police, she said I had to be careful if I opened the hood, that nothing happened. The owner stand next to it. Now I should pay for the damage. If the owner had at this time, the wipers did not weave it, it would never have happened. And if I unlocked the hood, and wanted to open the hood, and the owner stands 1 meter next to it, he can carefully lower the wiper, don’t you think? On the change of wipes I have at all I did not pay attention, I once ran around the car, paid attention to the paint etc… Now I should pay all the numbers? That can’t be!!! What do you think, which insurance must pay for this damage???

  • FXD Super Glide Tacho won’t work

    My problem: The speedometer of my 2004 Super Glide (FXD; FD1) just doesn’t show anything; neither the speed, nor the speed/day-kilometre level and also not the “error codes”. 🙁 The turn signals pull in again alone and the engine remains stable even in idle. Now to what I already did: – Tacho sent to the expert, came back as absolutely iO – Sensor cable When I disassembled the thickness on the WE, I saw the rear/bottom/left side of the frame – where the three ground cables are attached – that a ground cable is attached to the frame, but after about 5cm without any counterpart. The loose end looks as if it had gone off from a thin PIN. So fuse box out, all the plug backsides check if it is out of there somewhere (the length of the loose ground cable lays off). e the assumption that it could be from this area). RECENT! Also in the nourishing environment there was no counterpart! Everything was built together again, all fuses checked again for passage, cleaned, contact spray on it and again assembled. Unfortunately the tacho remained out. At the top of the tacho connector the currents measured (orange and brown/grey cable) and it were with running motor clean 14,4 – 14,6V. The passing measurements on the plug of the tacho and the tachos resulted Does any of you have the igniting idea or THE TIP for me, which I could still do without throwing the friendly horrifying money in the throat? Rejoice me on your lively answers!!!

  • Search for the perfect LPG engine

    Hello dear forum, I am looking for the perfect car for an LPG upgrade. I would like to have a 335i as a suction tube injector in the A5 Coupe. Explanation: 335i – Great engine with engine capacity with charge, but in the BMW there is no spare wheel dump A5 – Great interior, with about 1.5t curb weight still sporty and spare wheel dump available for Gastank engine: Direct injection do not go, unfortunately, because you do not run well Which car I have caught in the car at the moment is the C 350 from Merced 3.5l displacement with 272hp and 350NM and channel pipe injection, not too heavy body, spare wheel dump available, but missing charging Does anyone have a tip for the perfect LPG engine?

  • A35 AMG can I afford that?

    Hello, yes I know, for the 1000th time the same subject. Maybe nevertheless someone has a advice/opinion. I have finished my studies since last year and started my first job in January. I have never owned a car. I am now for a while to calculate whether and what I can afford. Currently the favorite is an A35AMG, 15000/24/??. This would be in my configuration between 600€ (€0 deposit) and 420€ (€400€ deposit) yw. rounded In addition: – Insurance at the HUK SF9 VK with new car compensation for the leasing time 800€ p.a. – tax 210€ p.a. What I could not find yet: What is added to inspection costs in two years or at 30,000 km? Does anyone have experience with the vehicle return at Daimler? My financial situation: On average, I earn 3400€ depending on the workload (usually between 320€ and 360€) expenses monthly (keep up quite precise book): rent/food/electricity etc.: 700€ Insurance In, Fitness, Leisure: 600€ Savings deposits Shares/Fonds/RV:400€ (before Corona 700€) Holiday: 200€ Currently the surplus of 1500€ goes to the daily money account, earlier into the depot. I have 6 months probation period, which runs until the end of June. Chef has already said that he will keep me, but I did not have this (yet) confirmed in writing. Could this be a problem for the lessor? Is my budget balance for the leasing bank sufficiently “positive” or could they be on a higher down payment b My employment contract is limited to 5 years, but that is longer than the lease period. My job is quite safe and very much in demand. Even if I should fly out today, I could sign a new contract tomorrow.

  • Sport.- or normal Variomatics

    yesterday I changed the drive belt and found that a glider (pos. 33) was defective and therefore the cam disc was incorporated into the drive disc. the weights are also down. when I just looked for a new vario fell on parts 36, 37 and 38 were not at all present!? it can be that I only need the just in this vario, that it varies a little from manufacturer to manufacturer?http://www.si-zweirad.de/…/index.php?… since a sp ortvario just 10eur more expensive than the original one is I thought to buy such a one. does the performance tech (below by me preferred for hilly against) really bring what or can one forget the underscore? it should be this:http://cgi.ebay.de/…egoryZ82225QQrdZ1QsssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem or this:http://cgi.ebay.de/…yZ65343QQrdZ1QsssPageNameZWD1VQcmdZViewItem?… or this:http://cgi.ebay.de/…egoryZ65343QsssPageNameZWDVQQrdZ1QcmdZViewItem

  • Hyundai i20 vs. Suzuki Swift 1.2 vs. Seat Ibiza 1.4 vs. Ford Fiesta 1.25

    Hello, I’ve been busy buying an EU import car for a few weeks now. During my research I kept coming out here in the forum, so I called in now, say hello and ask for help at the same time. Drive about 35 KM*2 to work every week (60% motorway and 40% city), at the weekend actually only short distance in the city. Would like to drive the new car as long as possible. My budget is quite manageable with approx. 12,000 EUR. he following vehicles in my short selection (sorted according to price ascending): 1) Hyundai i20 (86 hp), ca. 8.000 EUR 2) Suzuki Swift 1.2 (94 hp), ca. 8.400 EUR 3) Seat Ibiza SC 1.4 16V (86 hp), ca. 9.600 EUR 4) Ford Fiesta 1.25 (82 hp), ca. 10,000 EUR 5) Kia Rio 1.25 (86 hp), ca. 10,000 EUR 6) Mazda 2 CE Pro 1.3 MZR (75 hp), ca. 10.300 EUR My pre selection is not carved in stone ;-). The Corsas with the 1.4 machine are also out of print in my price range and therefore not in the selection. At Hyundai and Kia, I have another question: Does the manufacturer get the costs for the extended warranty if necessary over high inspection costs? Questions about questions, so it would be very nice if you would help me! Already now many people can get a very expensive price. ben Thanks for your help and suggestions!!

  • Car deregistered in 2008 and today 400€ bill of insurance

    Hello dear forum, I made a typical mistake with my first private car sale a while ago and sold my vehicle unregistered in June 2008! In the purchase contract we had agreed that the buyer cancelled it within 4 days. Of course he did not do that and when I came back from vacation it was still not logged off in September and I am with the purchase contract to the registration office and these meant to unsubscribe. As a result, I also sent it to the tax office. I’ve received the remaining taxes back and also canceled the insurance by phone. So now see there in my account missing 400 euros which the insurance has deducted me. On the phone they told me that they received a notice from the registration office of the buyer with cancellation date March 2009. The registration office of my city said that this was probably because the city of the buyer had only to find this license plate (6 months apparently) etc. . Ic h doesn’t want to hear how stupid it was of me… but I’ve had a lot of fun all in all that cost me over 400 euros. I have a purchase contract (he didn’t want none for himself). What am I supposed to do, do you think I have a chance with a legal lawsuit? The guy seems to have money already. Should I file an ad with the police or a lawyer? I’m already in despair, this sale is following me now just over a year!!! Would it bring something w can I present the purchase contract to the insurance company? Or am I simply still their contact person? Would be really grateful on advice!!

  • Adapting leasing kilometers in retrospect – experience? (Audi)

    Hello all, I got a leasing car with 10,000 kilometers per year for a duration of 36 months about 6 months ago. Now, well, in relation to the contract, I got together with my girlfriend, so my driving behaviour changed and I, if I have to move and then drive to work, would have to be very limited by driving. I then thought that I could adjust the kilometers afterwards. My Anspre The question is, when do I have to do this? The contract already states that I can only drive 10,000km a year, but if we say at the beginning of the 3rd year at 29,000km or so, then the lessor doesn’t know that I might have had 28,000km in the 24th month, instead of 20,000km; I could have done the 9,000km in a month. In other words: can I stay on the phone for so long? I’d like to have 15,000km “yearly”? Because otherwise, since I’m still relatively far at the beginning, I probably pay more at extra rates (I calculate a minimum of 50€ per month) than the more kilometers would be worth? I’ll look at Pi times thumbs maybe come out at such 40,000km at the end, which would be 952€ at an over-kilometre price of 9.52cent. I pay from now on 50€ more at 30 months Restlau I would say that we would say yes 1500€ and that is only estimated now, because maybe they want even more per month. Would we just say 10 months to pay the 50€ more would I get away cheaper. Does someone have experiences with something like that or was in a similar situation? Does this go through like this or is it said rather: “Well, you’re in the third year, you should have thought about that earlier”? Or should I just let it come to that and end up tinkering, with me ev Then stop now should be spending something monthly? Thank you!