MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • Gilera Nexus 500 (& Multivar) Vibrations + Questions

    Dear Maxiscooter friends, for two weeks I have been calling a chic Gilera Nexus 500ccm my own and am so satisfied. In order to adjust the starting weakness and the annoying vibrations in the lower speed band, I immediately ordered and installed a Multivar 2000 (version with 8 wheels). I ordered the belt half disc separately from Piaggio (since the original has only 3 guides for the sliding shoes and the Multivar needs the disc with 4 guides). In addition, I used the original Piaggio slip-on shoes (although the Malossi instructions said that you should use the original Piaggio slip-on shoes — I don’t get smart?). By default, my Nexus (1st model) still had the original variant of Piaggio with 6 wheels. This was then exchanged for the 8 multivar. With the result I’m satisfied so far: Strammer pass and clearly “softer” driving is now possible. A difference like day + night However, I have now from 90-1 00km/h clear vibrations in the footroom, which can really annoy on longer motorway rides. Sure, the Multivar turns significantly higher than the original vario – and with a single cylinder with such a power of course vibrations are normal. However, it can’t be that I hardly feel my feet when descending after 1h highway ride. Have already been through the forum and the topics regarding Nexus 500 + Vario/Multivar but on this special topic nothing statement-wrapped If someone with the 500 Master-Motor (if necessary also with Multivar) has found a tip/ advice for me on how to tackle the problem? Can it be due to the sliding shoes of Malossi? By the way, I have also installed the enclosed GDF. I am happy about every advice!

  • Harley Softail 1992 with EVO engine

    Moin moin, I’m about to buy a Harley Davidson Softail Heritage Classic built in 1992 with 1340cc and 63hp EVO engine. Running it is 20,000km. What can you say about the engine? It was installed quite often from 1984 to 1999. Vulnerable engine or an indestructible device? Guessing or driving from such an old box? What I could find in the net and what I heard from the circle of some Harley drivers is not a bad engine and not a bad model the Sof tail Heritage Classic. What do you say?

  • Winter tyres

    Hello, I am looking for the optimal winter tyres. So not all year round tyres, but which are optimal in cold, wet and snow. The size is 120/70-12 and 130/70-12. So far I have come across these two tyres due to research on the internet and recommendation of dealers: 1. Kenda K701 Winter 2. Heidenau K66 LT M+S To the Heidenau K66 LT M+S I received the following information from the manufacturer compared to the Heidenau K58mod M+S: The tread mixture (Snowtex) is the same, abe r the K66 LT M+S also has lamella technology, so it is better suited for snow-covered roads. From the profile picture the Kenda K701 winter also seems to be equipped with lamella technology, whereby at the Heidenau K66 LT M+S the profile is crossed with more grooves. Unfortunately, I have the impression with some dealers that they simply want to get rid of the tires that they have in stock… So a quite expensive dealer recommended to me the Heidenau K58mod M+S, although I had communicated, next questions: What is a realistic price for a tyre change? Does it make sense to buy a set of rims for the winter tyres? Thanks for helpful answers! Greetings Tanja

  • Error Air Suspension Town Car ́96

    Servus 🙂 Since yesterday I have a new town car with the following problem: As long as I am travelling with only one passenger, the car drives perfectly without errors and nothing, over many 100km. As soon as one or two people sit in the rear, “Check Air Suspension” comes in the instrument cluster. Can you give me tips for troubleshooting? The compressor and the air bellows were replaced just three years ago, they should not be through again. Is there a sensor, or yes, there is, of course, but lo Is it possible to clean it somehow? Thank you for your help, Greetings Tim

  • Which motorcycle for A2 newcomer

    Hi, I passed my A2 driver’s license a few days ago and get it in a few weeks (only on the 18th birthday). Now I have saved 3000 euros and would like to buy me a new motorcycle by installment payment or 50/50 financing. At first I wanted to get the Honda CBR500R, but I find it a bit stupid that it has no gait display. But now I have seen the announcement of the new Kawasaki Ninja 400 and I like it very much. The Ninja 400 is still nice. My concern, however, is that I have heard from many colleagues who are already riding a motorcycle that I should rather buy a bigger machine (600-750ccm) and then throttle it so that I can drive faster without any problems after the 2 years after I made the normal motorcycle driver’s license. My questions: 1.Which motorcycle is good for a newcomer (have nothing against Naked or Cruiser) 2.Does the Ninja 400 2018 recommend it? 3.Does buy and throttle larger ones or is 400-500ccm ok(vlt Ninja 650?)? 4.Does the Ninja 400 or the CBR500R have a Sozius with corresponding footrests? Hope you can help me.

  • Check/calibrate torque wrench

    Hi peoples, I have a slightly older one (about 20 years), but still quite good Gedore. But don’t trust him so much. Would he like to have him tested, so what I’m setting up is also turning on top. Does anyone here have any idea where to do such a thing? I mean basically.Is one looking at a car workshop, or tool dealer? GreetZZ ANDI

  • Plus and mass swapped -> Backup OK, but no 12V left on the fuse box

    Hello together, I didn’t know where to go with the thread. But think that it fits well here – otherwise please move. I wanted to clamp two W5W bulbs and branch 12V out of the fuse box for this. However, since I didn’t want to cut any cables, I decided to use a flat fuse picker:https://www.amazon.de/s?k=sicherheitsabgriffhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uEzI4KFe3Jc&t=63s Now I had picked out a fuse, at which According to the operating instructions (in English) the 20A fuse is responsible for “Real Electrical Center Ignition”. Unfortunately, when wiring plus and mass of the cables I switched from the W5W bulbs, totally stupid… distracted by the telephone. So I connected the plus cable to the ground point of the car body and the ground cable to the fuse grip, switched on the ignition and then of course surprised me that the Lampc I didn’t work … so I saw my mistake and almost fell out of all the clouds. I assumed, of course, that it disassembled the fuse – which was not the case, however. But now there is suddenly no 12V left at the fuse slot. The vehicle starts without problems, no error messages are ejected and apparently everything still works the way it should on board. What did I shoot myself now? I get annoyed at my stupidity. t.

  • Sportsr gear shifter

    Servus, I’m now driving an 2019 XL 1200C and I’m interested in shift flaps. I’ve already done a little research and had to find out that there are probably no finished kits for this, but they are mostly self-built. Is that true? Are there no finished solutions for this? What about a decrease? Simply remodeling won’t work, there are no test numbers on it for an own construction or it counts as if I just placed the current system differently, prakti don’t make any structural changes that need a decrease? Thank you very much

  • Weld V2A with electrodes

    Hi, it’s not 100% the right forum but hopefully you have some tips for me. I don’t have a welding training, but with my original welding transformer I actually got everything quite acceptable welded (at least for my conditions more than satisfactory). Now I had to weld two V2A stainless steel tubes (2mm wall thickness), so briefly Google asked (there’s supposed to be quite good) and ‘n Packing electrodes bought. Everything prepared and started n –> What a shit!! Electrode mainly glued tight, seemed to me like the first person. I got it after some time, but wanted to ask you questions. The following thing occurred to me: – Electrode coat stopped constantly, but the soul melted down a few mm lower (after setting down there was nothing more before the overhanging coat was not tweaked off) – electrodes very often stick firmly (very strong, almost no more off). – Apparently goes with g Rougher distance (longer arc) better What is it? Are the electrodes bad? Any tips. PS. I cut two square tubes on miter and welded them together to 90° (especially the outer edge was a bit tricky because of the thin material thickness). Thank you. Greeting Metalhead

  • Brake discs: relevance of minimum thickness

    Hello! On a vehicle today I mounted the summer wheels and at the occasion I looked at the brakes. The brake blocks still have a lot of thickness. But the brake disc seemed to be relatively worn out. I measured it and it still has a thickness of approx. 19 or 19.22 mm (exactly the measurement was not for various reasons, but should get there roughly). Just I looked at the brake disc manufacturer. the minimum thickness for the vehicle with an internal wash. This is the second set of brake blocks that is used with the disc. Now the question is: to use the brake blocks to the end and then change or to keep the minimum thickness so precisely that it is absolutely necessary to act now? What do you think? How relevant is the minimum thickness?