According to the rumors, Volvo has confirmed to the narrow motor magazine “Autocar” that a C30R with four wheel and over 300 hp is produced. It is definitely not the R-design model. Although the source seems a bit dizzy to me. Photo shows naturally the C30 R-design. And that Volvo borrows the engine from Ford, is naturally bull, since every Volvisti knows that this is the T5-Volvo engine, which Ford has pulled off from the S40/V50. The R-Design package in the program (which even equipped the good Thickling XC90 with 4 exhaust tubes) just no real R-model in production, is more than ridiculous. Volvo has proved wonderful with the introduction of the T5-R in the nineties, where in Sweden hangs the hammer. I hope one rests with the introduction of the T5-R in the nineties, where in Sweden hangs the hammer. The new S60 (so far as Audi, BMW and Mercedes are concerned) is a powerful engine with little fuel consumption. A D5-R! Let’s just hope that the new S60 (so-called S60) will not go any further on the laurels – especially with the currently unconvincing engine range (such as the oldest model in the range, the S60, in which the D5 version makes it faster and more economical than the entire new product range… ). rn there will be one) will be a great product; if possible, then please again as real R. Sorry (done from the topic), just my 2 cents. Source:www.leftlanenews.com/volvo-c30r.html
Author: 00c12f
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Lacquer bursts off at the front
Moin, unfortunately I have the problem with my Julchen year 2017 that on the front the clear varnish bursts off. After the first laundry the paint is now down to the plastic. Now I was at the dealer and they said that they have to report the Alfa Romeo in order to be able to reimburse it for the warranty. Can such a thing be that a 1 year old car has such defects? My previous vehicles (Skoda Octavia II, Audi A4 B7) were already much older when I bought and I never had such prob leme… I already read in other threads that the paint quality at Alfa is rather below average. Best regards bassnubi
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Giulietta JTDM 140 hp or 170 hp
Good day, I am interested in a Giulietta as a diesel, either with 140 hp or 170 hp. Did this hear the differences are rather small in terms of performance, is that true? What can one say about the running culture and volume at each time? Drive currently a 147 JTD 16V with 140 hp, can one compare the driving performance? Greeting Christian
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Now also owner of an Alfa Romeo
Servus Yesterday I found “the 159 SW, which I was looking for. Many things already done, with documents. Control chain renewed in 2017. Alternator renewed in 2017. Complete braking system renewed in 2017. I also read very much on the forum, what you have to pay attention to when buying. It has helped a lot in the search. Especially with regard to the control chain, at dealers it is nice to wave off appeased. Thus also to all, who participate actively in a forum, a warm thank you ön. And in particular the subforum ‘Alfa Romeo 159′ pictures come later
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Mito – Question of purchase advice
Hello, I’m currently looking for a new car and have a little bit of a look at the MiTo. Now the question arises, which PS number, diesel – petroler? During the week I mostly drive short distances, but at the weekend I commute around 600km. I think because of the relatively many short distances within the week a petroler would make more sense? And then: Do you notice the difference between 135 and 155 hp significantly with the petrolers? nk for help in advance!
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Repair or sale?
Hi guys. I’m new here. I signed up to talk about my beloved Mito with other Alfa fans who might be able to understand how I’m doing. I’m pretty down right now. I caused an accident by missing a vehicle and taking the lead. (50-zone, if he actually had only 50 on it, well noticed shortly after a sharp curve and then still slowed down his claim, be left there. I’m aware of my fault. He was on a main road, I guess it doesn’t matter how fast he was on the road, I should have looked better.) He crashed into my left side. His is total damage, I guess, too. That’s the question now. I have to decide now whether I can put up the, undisputed high repair costs or just carry on my cut.. Since I know ned with the repairs and co, I have to listen to acquaintances/relatives who advise for sale. But that’s my Mito!! Too bad n: the left side around the front wheel is demolished. The rear fender and the front bumper are slightly damaged, the door and the front fender have got the most off. The left front wheel is gone, probably with the axle. The engine and everything else under the bonnet must be intact, the car starts and you could probably drive with it without any problems if the left wheel is not in the A… what cost would that be about? What has to be done? I want a R first at before I get an estimate because time is pressing, I have to decide quickly because I am instructed to a car. Greetings, quite sad Eleina
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Bye Type Rs 🙁
Moin, after I had to leave my FK8 last year after an accident, today I have severely separated from my other type R. After more than 320,000 largely problem-free kilometers, the EP3 now has a new owner, who will give him a fresh cell cure. Finally, the car just stood around with me, used up space and was driven far too rarely. Thus, over the time also a maintenance stash crept in. Then last week the TÜV Rational it was the only right decision, but a tear in the eye remains: the Type R was my first real fast car, and I had so many nice experiences with it – also here in and with the forum. Up to the last I have always said to myself: “I keep it until it falls apart”, but I am also firmly convinced that cars are vehicles and not standing vehicles, and if he stands with me the tires square and jeman d can have fun with it any other way, then it is better to let go. Everything has its time, what you want to do. I will continue to participate with you, but for the first time I am on the road in the Yaris area (where an FL5 still irritates me hard….. so: never say never ) Thanks for the nice time, all the best, and you read!
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Turbo without function or low function
Hello Volvo friends, I recently bought a Volvo V40 2.0T (165hp). The first days worked the acceleration problemlessly. In a few days the turbo stopped operating. I was already short in the workshop. Here the LMM always indicated the same value during a test drive. The technician might suspect the LMM. But unfortunately he didn’t have more time. I bought and installed a new LMM now (unfortunately not the right one afterwards). But there was one et what better acceleration and the engine sounded a bit (hard to describe) higher. With the old LMM it sounds a bit deeper. But a real turbo insert didn’t come. I have ordered the 100% correct one again (from VDO). I suspect that the error comes from somewhere else. I once tried to visually determine something. If you look down behind the LMM towards Turbo, it looks pretty oily. I took a photo once. What do you think? I am happy about every hi If
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It’s finally done!
So Volvo friends I sold, for at least 1000 euros, I have to go out I sold the Volvo as a decomposition of public order to Africa My wife is completely new, she has withdrawn the divorce I have spare time again, but pretty he was already, only partially misconstructed, just Swedish. Will always look in here, maybe I buy Peugeot. Thanks to all who have helped with a constructive post, could after 2 years The list of repairs is endless, too long Pirate
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Volvo V40 2.0T Built 99:Question on consumption
So far all the prima, super comfortable, good workmanship and a great design at a good price! Only the only catch would be the consumption with which I slowly start to doubt whether that must be so… As I said, I drive the car now since December and have initially pushed the consumption of ~13l (almost pure city traffic) to the winter and thus a little longer warm running phases. Now I drive every morning well 15km (Bund) it road) to my place of work and lie at ~11l with massively defensive driving mode (hundred at the line) and switch still before 2500tours. Even with slight acceleration (really carefully gas-giving) the consumption indicator rises quickly by the 20l or more!The tailpipe on the exhaust is also quickly lost although it almost does not require any oil, which could possibly be a sign of too fat mixture. Someone already had similar problem, or is all this normal and must also go to I am grateful for every tip! MfG VitaminG P.S.:Air filter is new