Author: 00c12f

Hello guys I would like to buy a Smart ForTwo for my wife. It’s year 1/2009, has run 71 hp and 11000km. Panorama roof, Softtouch, ZV. Original CD/Radio, Aluminium rims, Gasoline He also has a Multi Hybrid, one can hopefully switch off, would be annoying when parking… Have 2 factory members driven each 1 year. Cost should he 8200 euros. Is that ok? What does a Smart in tax and insurance cost a year? What do I have to pay attention if I look at it? Are there known flaws? So it is the pure model without a speedometer and watch 🙁 Which tyre size is this? Would 4 winter complete wheels still need. Can I buy these with each tire discount? What favorable aluminum wheels go? How does the Smart drive in winter? Thanks for help Thomas

Moin Smarties, actually wanted to write nothing more on the subject but since from some corners again and again on the small around is hacked here times my experience with the For2 from the deep snowy Sauerland.. Snow So I have to admit according to the reports I have read after the purchase of the Smart I tried to sell the thing again before winter but since we hang on to him and anyway drift artists are thanks to the good 190 are I thought: Collect your own experiences… That was good so!! because the Smart – even the without ESP- masters the winter excellent, also with the Hancook winter tires I am very happy, as the itself on slopes through the snow is really impressive, Ford Ka and Co are standing down.. HeikosSmart is up at the top at first was always pulled over the small because of dangerous winter characteristics, but nu’s quiet in the neighborhood since nevertheless some to walk up the mountain must be seen and above the “small” stand so, still what to the winter road, also there he certainly does not wear man woman too fast over the winter, too good to practice Overthy have made some good luck!

Hello, Edt: Yes – I have read the articles on this topic 😉 in order to make the work path cheaper I think about buying a cheap (!) smart when next year comes the change sign. It should be a diesel in any case, because I have a simple work path of 55km. It does not matter at all on power and speed, is anyway all rural road, but kilometers it should be able to eat. In various Internet car exchanges you can now find Dieselmarts from 2000Euro, which then also have 230,000 and more kilometers. Is it worth a purchase if you drive around 30,000KM a year? What follow-up costs and repairs do you have to reckon with then? What can you do on the smart itself, and for what do you absolutely have to do in a workshop? What weak points does the smart, which should be looked at particularly accurately? Thank you Mathias

Hello all, I bought a smart just under half a year ago. Now the “switch motor/control motor” is broken from the right headlight. My dealer initially claimed that this was a cover, so no warranty case. But now he has agreed to repair the part. He wants to install a used spare part, is that so usual? After all the discussions it wouldn’t surprise me if I had some scrap. I hope someone can help me here, thank you already!

I am interested in buying a Smart fortwo Diesel. Since I like to drive in idle mode, when it goes down the mountain, or to a traffic light and I have never driven automatic or semi-automatic, I wonder if and how this could be done with the Smart. Does this work? So when driving in idle mode and is good? What are the settings at the switch lever? The N stands for normal, then R as backward and that was, right? So don’t?! Please answer me, thank you. Still 1.2 things: I wanted to buy one for max. 3000€. Drive 3x the week 30km to work a way, make with university and work about 15000km per year, so I have to come to about 3 years. What do you say? Skin that?

Hello, I’m not so long a smart owner, since March I drive a 4.5 year old fortwo (each at 35,000km) and love it very much… I’ve now let myself be persuaded to a review (free smart workshop), also because it’s oil change, winter tires have to be on it and at all, I know so far only that he drives well and was groomed by the previous owner (now with the maintenance indicator at -77 days). The friendly fitter told me now that the spark plugs should be changed every year with the smart (costs 83€ extra), that he would definitely recommend to me. As an old Ossi woman this is quite suspicious – new spark plugs without reason? How are your experiences? Does this have to be or is the money tailoring?

After “actually” error-free connection incl. ISO adapter (sponge plus and duration plus are switched correctly) the JVC simply cannot be switched on. It has power, CD can be driven out and in and when I press the disp button it shows the time elapsed since the installation. What can this be? Edit: Now it works, but how: 1. On the ISO adapter red and yellow changed 2. from the radio yellow and red both on and off red Lets always turn on and off. What else do I have to do to get this on and off by ignition?

Hello ! At the Smart from the neighbour the starter no longer moves ? Yesterday he wanted to drive into a parking gap , whereby the transmission did not switch into the idle and the engine was strangled like . An hour later at the next start attempt the starter did not make a Mux anymore . The instrument lights are all normal . Only the starter does nothing more ???? Have today the starter developed and tested – I.O. ! fuses for engine are all ok ! Has someone ever had such a thing ?? mfg Jürgen

Hello to all smarties who of you has chipped his little ones. I mean the chip tuning I have a Smart Type 451 with 64 kw and would like to have it chipped. Unfortunately or also to luck is the selection so huge. that I unfortunately lose the overview I would like to have a few good tuners of you who are also to recommend are I also like to drive a few kilomenters. A Fa. in Weilheim Teck it offers only I don’t know if they are also good. So please if someone has made one or other experience no matter whether positive or negative with it. Thank you Turbo451

I wonder if there is any trick, for example if you roll to a traffic light to activate the idle, do not say to have any gear in it. Normally, the smart always switches down automatically and reduces the speed by the correspondingly inserted gear. Thus, although you only have to roll, you have to give gas, in order not to stop completely. In my opinion, this increases the fuel consumption and the wear of the clutch / gear. If I put the N gear in front of a red traffic light this would work in principle. But if only the traffic light unexpectedly jumps to green and I have to give gas, I do not know if it would be good to put the “gang” back in, because the car does not know which gear it should take and possibly switches into the first gear and then I would slow down quite badly. Does one of you also know this “problem”? Smart 451 cdi 2009