Hello, I have a little problem there. Wanted to change oil today. Oil out, then the oil filter should get out. I tried to get rid of the filter with this loop tool for oil filters. No chance, the thing sits so bomb-proof at all. To the info the part was taken in in January, at the customer service. Since the approx.10tkm with. Now the real problem. Unfortunately I slipped in an attempt to solve the filter and put in the next hose (see picture) a small hole. The liquid, it should be a hose from the cooling system. I guess that’s right? The plan would now be to get new hose. Let out coolant. New hose in. Coolant back in, oil filter off. New oil in and that best as soon as possible. Ask tomorrow the Honda dealer what he wants for the part, or whether he has it there. But there should be such a hose there was also in the car trade as a meter? Great, however, what has to happen on vacation, if you urgently need the car.
Author: 00c12f
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CR-V RE 5 Steering
Hello, I’ve been driving a CR-V 2.0 hand switch from 2011 with 62000km on the clock for a week, bought from an Opel dealer, stapled at Honda, from a 2nd hand. I’m a little unsure about the steering. The steering wheel does not completely recede after hitting the steering wheel, long-drawn bends will run without holding the steering wheel after steering. I can drive in a circle without having my hand on the handlebars without having the handlebars. In long straight sections of the road the car runs relatively stable straight, however, a small correction is necessary, which must then happen with a little emphasis on the handlebar. The tyre picture is perfectly ok. I came to the HH here on site, which meant: normal. In the test drive this was not so noticeable to me. Ok, small corrections, which are probably due to the tyre dimensions of the steering gears; 225/65/R17 I had previously driven an A class W169, the steering was clearly more easy and after the steering impact was not so noticeable to me.
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Once again the particle filter
Hello Together, after I have been able to successfully avoid the topic for the last 6 years with my 2007-er RE6 CTDI, it has now caught me cold with my new RE6 DTEC. Particle filters dense and off to the workshop to regenerate there. There was absolutely no indication of the vehicle to the necessary regeneration of the filter in the last 6 months. I thought so; super that’s what Honda got great with the new engine generation. No more “gassi driving”. But like Heist it so nice; approach pleased. What does this look like with other IV drivers. Did someone ever show the regeneration indicator (without exclamation marks)? With me there was definitely no warning!
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Droan noises in the stand, and at about 1500 revolutions
I don’t have to worry about it. I’m sorry about it. I’m sorry about it. I’m sorry about it. I’m sorry about it. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry.
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Omi doesn’t come over the mountain: Overheating
Omega B 2,0 l, 1 36 HP , Caravan, Built 98 I went on holiday with Omi , first 1500 km, with the caravan at the rear, no problems. Cooling water temperature about 96 degrees In Austria, Gerlitzen – Bergstraße: It goes on, without caravans!, Cooling water temperature gets into the red area , Blowing / steam, the ride uphill is over! Return trip: 1500 km, no problems. Because Omi did not like the mountains, I had changed the cooling water pump before. The old pump had no damage. Fan runs impeccable. No coolant loss, the hoses are filled and hot. Cooler is not dirty. Cooling water I had also changed. It is clean. What can I do to prevent Omi from dying of heat death??? Cereale
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Replace rubbers to stabilizer rear axle
Moin, I’m new here. I’ve been driving Opel for 30 years, currently an Omega 2.5 TDI BJ 95 and screw a lot of things myself. Now I need your help. The TÜV has written me a one-sided defect report. I could manage everything without using the FOH. So the FOH wanted to work alone for the fog lights, 100-200 EUR depending on the effort. I had a new front apron with foggers installed and the TÜV wanted it to work. I then got it for 5 EUR plus new switch at Ebay. Can at some point describe how to retrofit the cable. In the re-examination he additionally criticized a worn rubber on the stabilizer on the rear axle. Expansion and pushing out of the old part as well as pushing in the new rubber went with a hydraulic press without problems. I get the part in the built-in condition but not pushed far enough over the handle. As soon as the metal books with the iron cursssed, I lack any point of approach for a lever. Someone knows how to get the rubber over the handler. I have to expand the rear axle completely.
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omega b x20xev Question about petrol pressure
moin people, I have an omega 2.0 16v x20xev if I want to start it, it starts badly and only when I play a bit with the gas. the petrol pressure is zero at the start, only when I turn a few seconds it goes up to 3bar, then it also starts, only with gas, but it runs without problems when it is on. takes normal gas on etc. only lights up now the motor electronic lamp, error: “crank angle sensor, voltage too high/low” if the error is deleted, it comes back at the start again. I pull the cable off the sensor, it runs the same way, or jumps the same way.. what can this be? is it the sensor, or maybe the gasoline pump??? please help me quickly, wants to drive this year still round with it mfg
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A new man on board 😉
But I don’t think I’ve had a good time, but I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, but I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, but I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, but I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, but I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ I’ve had a good time, but I’ve had a good time, but a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ I’ I’ve had a good time, but I’ve had a good time, but I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, I’ve had a good time, but I’ve had a good time and a good time and a good time and a good time and a good time and a good time and a good time and a good time, but I’ I’ I’ I
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Tuning FN2???
Hi, so I’m new here now…. have my FN2 Type R at the door for three weeks now and I’m extremely happy with the car…is something quite different than the Golf V I’ve been driving before… Now I’m looking for some nice but not cheap-looking accessories… Who’s still doing performance upgrades at the FN2? How much horsepower are there to pick up? My two best buddies are riding the Seat Leon Cupra R on 265 hp….I’m already pretty good at the moment…but it would be much nicer to be able to drive along the side of the car….has heard about the so-called sucker tuning on about 230hp. What exactly is being done? Only changed a few driving times or what exactly happens over the software? Furthermore, I would be interested in what exactly for a hole circle of the Civic has to do… Honda first of all before you can only go up to ET30…with everything the wheels further out the TÜV wants to have a ride performance or what exactly happens?
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Hard circuit CRV 2.2 CTDI
Hello, drive the new Honda CRV 2.2 CTDI, have problems with the switching operations. The first gear and the second can be difficult to switch, the lowest gears, i.e. four and six, can not be switched completely clean. In the workshop you have all the moving parts that lead to the transmission re-lubricated.The whole has then worked well for about 3 weeks and now the same problem is there again.Lt. Statement of the workshop is the gearbox harder to switch than with a petrol engine. Who has of you also such problems and how did you solve them?