Author: 00c12f

  • Honda CR-V e:HEV and e:PHEV 2023 Community Thread

    But I’ve been talking about the new car, but I’ve been talking about the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car, the new car.

  • Diesel engine stutters when tank is almost empty

    Hello to the round, happy new year. It’s about a CRV bj. 2011 diesel 2.2 i-dtec. As soon as the tank is half empty, the engine stutters with a slight gas release (and only in low speed ranges!). The stutter becomes stronger and more often the empty tank becomes. Feels as if the engine would lack fuel. SOBALD I fill up, the engine stutters very easily and not so often. What could it be? Does anyone have a reasonable explanation?

  • Audi V8 D11 Buy: Questions about timing belts ect.

    That’s why I’m on the e46 forum, because I’ve been driving an e46 330ci for almost 4 years. But the bmw is supposed to go away now, and it’s supposed to be a big one again. I just want to get back a cozy cruiser with quattro drive, either the old V8 or the A8 d2 with V8. History: I had an Audi V8 D11 3,6l from the beginning of 2007 to the end of 2010. In the next bar there is a 3.6 V8, 250tkm on the clock, logged off and without tuv, an heir of an older driver, 1st hand. Sunday I was there to look at. The owners were already at tuv, the following faults fixed: -Abgas investigation was not possible, because of bad values. -“Rost” to the brake lines – oil loss engine (below side) Unfortunately, the battery is always platt (auto is a long time in the garage) but that I was not able to make a positive calculation.

  • Omega A immobilizer causes problems

    Hello people Yesterday the car just went out during the ride and it wasn’t sprite. My opinion is it’s because of my immobilizer, because the MKL did not light up at the start afterwards and the car did not jump. After a short waiting time it went again. Info:MKL does not light up when the car has not opened with the remote control. You have to open the car with the FB so that the immobilizer is disabled. I still have to say that it smelled a little burnt at the light switch or underneath (can’t exactly determine it) and the smell has not disappeared until now. Maybe someone knows where the module for the immobilizer is installed and how to pull it out or bridge it? Thank you

  • help search omega series tire within 5 days 🙁

    hi. I need the fastest possible offers for matures. since some persohnen have cancelled the holiday with my parents we can only drive with their own car for cheap money. would like to accept this offer of my parents very much because I could not treat my family for 10 years any more. because you do not get rich on today’s labor market. our car is unfortunately for 3 months with uncarable matures on the farm. therefore look urgently mature until Saturday the 8.8.2009 either serial tyres 205/65 15 inches 94 v this then 4 times or 235/40 18 inches 94 v these then but only 2 times as the rear ones are ok.

  • Couple of questions about EP 3 Type R

    Hello tosamman, would have a few questions to the type RGemeinde since I want to buy an EP 3. I found the car when buying my CTDI quite brilliant, but was probably at that time too reasonable, but now I have to make the “unreasonable” step from the diesel to the R easy… can partly think of nothing else:-) Well, as much as when buying the CDTI Sport I don’t drive anymore at the moment, but I say that the R of the often without “forcing reason”:-) is brought out of the underground garage. My questions: Honda indicates a standard consumption of 8.9 L combined, what are your experiences with normal, sportive driving?….I guess between 10-12 L combined?! But must say this also with me a very large part of the city. What I have to pay special attention to when buying the R (it should be a year from 04 onwards with a max. 70,000 Km, original condition and nem proper Scheckheft) and to a good last one: White the “Umweltplakette” of the EP has not found a few.

  • EP 3 must be the racer in Greece

    Tach Junges, I got my EP3 silver this morning, year 2002, 110000km, 2 hd, accident-free, non-smoking, 8 times matured, everything stick, shelf-booked, set at Mobile and Autoscout. Without shit, 10 min later the first Greek from Heilbronn calls me. He takes the car without a test drive etc. TÜV and AU is wurscht, is for ́n Export. I could have sold my car to 5 Greeks this morning within 2 hours, wahnsinn. Why Greece? and what is my car worth? mfg Holger

  • Rubbing/running the clutch after cold start

    Say, that also someone with a hand switch at CR-V IV AWD 2.2l, that at the first 2-3 times starting in the cold state the clutch plucked (especially cracked, if you have to drive uphill)? When starting uphill the whole CR-V had shaken once, so crass the clutch plucked. I will bring the CR-V times for a few days to the dealer – is however again so’n stupid case of occurs only 2-3 times in the cold state.. Is away afterwards. Of course difficult to prove, especially if the dealer does not want to recognize it.. (Well, you don’t have to go from now to, but could be..) Does someone of you also have something like that? I already had something similar with the Accord Diesel. I assume that the same construction of the clutch is involved in the weather – then maybe I’ve had to drive away with the accordion at some of the couplers. Then I had to replace/repaired it. I could not be accustomed to it until then, too bad at the same time.

  • Power failure in the Omega

    I had to say goodbye to the first thing, I had to say goodbye to the first thing, I had to say goodbye to the first thing, I had to say goodbye to the last thing, I had to say goodbye to the first thing, I had to say goodbye to the first thing, I had to say goodbye to the first thing, I had to say goodbye to the first thing, I had to say goodbye to the first thing, I had to say goodbye to the first thing, I had to say goodbye to the second thing, I had to say goodbye to the second thing, I had to say goodbye to the second thing, I had to say goodbye to the second thing, I had to say goodbye to the second thing, I had to say goodbye to the second thing, I had to say goodbye to the second thing, I had to say hello to the second thing, I had to say hello to the second thing, I had to say hello to the second thing, I had to say hello to the second thing, I had to say hello to the second thing.

  • Mount the crossbars -> how to get the joint in…

    Hello, at the Omi-A I had already changed the transverse handlebars a dozen times. Since my Omega B was at the front right for a long time, the coupling rods and dome bearing exchange but did not bring anything, almost only the transverse handlebar remained over. Somehow you have to use more force with the B-Omi to get the new handlebar in. I made the following order: 1.) rear socket in and screw loosely in. (because otherwise the socket bent and does not go in. 2.) front socket loosely in. 3.) Now comes the convulsion: carrying joint in the axle-screw. Did I break one at, how does it make a professional? I still have the one here for the driver side, I also want to replace, then the track rods new and off for the axle measurement. The two screws for the bearings, must be renewed?