Author: 00c12f

Moin! I’m so desperate. The last 3 – 4 times the TÜV sent me to the workshop because the engine loses an excessive amount of oil. I have to admit that I’m still blue-eyed directly at BMW, and more about it. The TÜV’ler is always more like this: “So that won’t be a big problem. A seal or something, once, and then you probably have years of rest.” In the BMW workshop, for example, it runs like this: “We have it, it’s the oil tub gasket, the “Now we have it, it’s the engine cover (or similar? sorry, know me too little). Is a bit more elaborate, but then you have rest” Done, 1 day after that the clutch mysteriously is completely broken. So again workshop “By the way, your engine loses oil. That’s definitely the oil tank that needs new.” I: “Did you just make a new one last week?” – “Oh, then that’s just rest oil” De facto they have been repairing themselves since big b 8 years rich in the oil problem. However, 2 visits to free workshops were also similar pan. Before I become a general skeptic towards workshops, I think that’s wrong – would I need advice. How do you do that most cleverly? Do I simply blindly test other free workshops? Does someone possibly have a trusting tip for minis in Hamburg? Or does someone have an approach to the oil problem, or how do I deal with the workshop more precisely? Thank you already.

Hello together, I have the problem with my Mini Cooper SD R56 (built in 2013 with approx.137,000KM) the problem that he does not accept gas, only if I walk from the gas several times and press again. Was already twice at my BMW workshop, these have read out the error memory but could not find out, then the air filter was changed, because this was supposed to be the cause. After nothing could be determined I tried my luck in a free workshop. r said it was on the incandescent control unit as well as the incandescent plugs, of course everything was changed the same way. After the problem still occurred and I was again in the free workshop, the DPF was said to be full (due to the defective incandescent control unit and the incandescent plugs). This was then also changed. Now the problem is still there, was again in the free workshop which could then also not detect anything. The problem usually occurs when starting or if I after switching up is quite undertoury and wants to speed up, then also gladly in connection with jerking the engine. If I quite rightly drive a lot of gas it works mostly and it then starts without problems. Maybe someone already had a similar problem or an idea what it could be. With kind regards

Hello together, I’m new here in the forum. I hope I ask my question here in the correct “department” of the forum. I have seen that someone has already installed such a “Chinaradio” on his mini, but unfortunately I haven’t found it. I have installed a new Android radio in my R 56 Mini Cooper S year 2011. It all works, only that I don’t receive any radio stations and it just rushes. The installation instructions were unfortunately not sent along and the Suppo rtabteilung of the company now ignores me after a one-week to and fro written haha. I found out that the minis apparently have a signal amplifier or something in the kind on the antenna on the roof and that this is supplied by the original radio directly with power and that this the aftermarketradios probably does not do and therefore the reception is so miserable. However, one can counteract this with an installation of a phantom feed adapter. n Radios, however, comes directly out of the antenna plug still such a blue cable with and looks actually exactly like with the above-mentioned adapters (but with them it should be connected to the current). However, with mine this has no such intermediate piece as with the adapters, which you can buy otherwise. So I did not connect this blue cable, because apparently the radio can break, if there suddenly current flows from the antenna into the radio. (The Phantoms Feedera dapter should apparently avoid that current flows to the radio but only to the antenna) I have attached an image on which you can see the cable well. (the blue one, which comes directly from the plug of the antenna.) On the second picture no. 27 (I don’t know what Auto ANT should stand for or where you should connect it) I don’t know if someone knows about it or has already installed something like that, but I would be really happy if someone could help me. I’m just buying a phantom feed adapter, because I’m sure I’m not destroying my radio Thank you for your answers.

Ahoi value mini-community, after 12 years I decided to hang my Audi TT from 1999 and buy me a Mini Cooper S Clubman from 2008, 1Hd automatic with 75TKM. The inspection is still pending, so I would look forward to tips on what to pay special attention to. Are there special weaknesses in the model? Are there usual pending repairs in the mileage, which may be unusually expensive compared to my Audi? Thank you for your help!

Hi, for my Mini Cooper (r50) have got new discs and pads in the back. Unfortunately, the brake hangs easily now, when driving you don’t notice it, but the brake is getting very hot and then you notice on the bus that it grinds. However, the brake calipers are free and do not hang. Now the mechanic said that it is either on the hand brake (which, however, is quite normal: 4 points to fixed) or is on the brake hoses (in the 10 year old car already over??) . If then imemr n Is that all right, or are there other sources of error and or test that I could do? mfg Imsi

Moin, occasionally our Mini Cooper R56 with the 120 HP engine is nailing at the cold start in the morning. Chain tensioner costs not 25€ and I wanted to change it. Especially with the Turbo there seems to be a lot of problems. I have found instructions so far only for the Turbo. Did today the air filter system with ours down and the hoses. I see the 27er screw. Only I can get no nut on it, let alone the one turned out. The throttle valve is in the way. If yes, what to consider when dismantling? Are these only the 2 Torx screws? Please short info. Thank you