Hello to each other We drive an 8 year old Mini R60 with 1.6 engine from the house PSA – this one has been in emergency run for a time and jerks while driving! Engine lamp lights constantly. We would have had the light from time to time and it also went over but that is not anymore. Was also with BMW which also took care of him checkbook but with a diagnosis the friendly everything was in order – error memory deleted lamp was gone but the problem came back. Z Ündkerzen are new now but that brought so far nothing! If it were the Lambda probe that would be in the diagnosis or?! After a long drive the emergency run goes out again and full power is given however then under pressure the sporadic stuttering comes back! Have already added a petrol system cleaning of Liqui Moly and tank now also some better petrol. Do you have hints or tips?! Thank you in advance!
Author: 00c12f
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CarPC in Omega (before facelift)
Hi guys, I’ve had a lot of fun in the CarPC forum lately and I’ve let you sit here a little bit, not mean bad :-)))! Now I’ve brought with me new problems that I can’t get solved on my own. As you can see on the subject I will (I am) make my PC into my car. The planning is through and yesterday I started to pull cable. We had to find out that the Oemga under the disguise offers quite little space after all … Well, now it’s the case that the planned installation space of the power supply (in the regiom around the glove compartment, there was the original hands-free compartment in before, as behind the hand-held compartment squashed, because I need in the wide (9 cm, 7.5 cm) a pair of centimeters) does not offer enough space :-(. The PC should be in the glove compartment (short cable paths etc.). Do you have any idea where I can still accommodate such a power supply box ? Dimensions are : W x H x D : 14x15x9 plus something for the cables. MfG Marc
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Weight of standard ST rims
Hoihoi, who knows the weight of the current wheels of the Focus ST? ICh search meanwhile also ma weng further, but maybe already someone has found out. Thx for possible answers.
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W126 gear problems!
yes people! also I’m w126 freak! but unfortunately, I haven’t really wanted to make fun of myself for some time! some time ago my gearbox is broken… (it slipped so much that no more gear went in and at all came to a power transfer at 5000 revolutions) so I got a “new used” one. that’s why I had a bad amount of oil when it was installed. so out with the thing… the mechanic then somehow got me the oil. pump converted, because the allegedly leaked was. well, densely bit not right, but it “sweats” only and with it I can live. then first n few weeks everything was good. the gearbox switched and did not slip through. then, suddenly and without a reason for me, the gearbox doesn’t switch anymore! I can only drive in the second gear! since now two weeks it goes like that and the funny thing is that in the time (still driven daily) about three times pl It doesn’t seem to be related to the operating temperature, since it once switched in the completely cold condition and once in the (really) warm condition again. otherwise it doesn’t switch at all at the moment. neither cold, nor warm. one specialist told me that there are two possible causes for these symptoms: either the gearbox is dirty or it has torn a brake band. has one of you similar experience I would like to expand and clean the gearbox now. if any of you have documents to build such a transmission, or even repair instructions, I would be very grateful. would be happy about any literature in this direction. and of course also about your opinions on the problem. oh yes, it is a 500sec, ez12/86 (mod. 87). already many thanks, raphael
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Urgent!,correct oil for S-Class
Hello, have an important question! A friend of mine drives an S420 W140, now he has made an oil change with a synthetic oil 5W40, so far so good, but now there is only one number on the oil canister: API SJ – ACEA A3-98! May he drive this oil, would be very important!! Shouldn’t there be a release of DB on it? Thanks already in advance. Greeting Mario
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600SEL clatters on test drive
I am in the decision phase, whether I should buy a 600 Bj 1992 with 136,000 km (allegedly verifiably true mileage). The problem is that when driving the test drive at the rear left a little bit, if you drive over bumps or on bad road. I then put the car on stage and looked for the shock absorbers or other parts. But it doesn’t seem to be broken. Does anyone have any idea what that could be? After all, the car v get new TÜV/AU on 8 weeks and otherwise also makes a well-kept impression. I’m not sure if I should buy an expensive problem with my W124 260E or rather make it quick again…
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Kadett-D; I give up!!
Hello D-community, heavy heart I give up my D-hobby and thus sell my Kadett-D. Here are some data: Kadett-D-CC 3-door 1.2N (39/53) “Berlina” Built 07.04.1981 3.Hand, original 93Tkm, unwelded original condition !! Tüv+Au: New! Color is flamencored with black velour Equipment: aluminium rims, headlight cleaning system, additional brake lights fog package, remote spotlight, radio “Le Mans CR” with cassette, storage compartment in the trunk and under the amature board, dirt Every year, cavity wax and Ub protection were renewed or refreshed. The vehicle had an oil change with filter every 7,500km. Contacts, spark plugs, brake hoses +liquid, oil tray, valve cover and control housing seal were replaced this year. The brake was renewed last year (since that was only 1,500-2,000km). The clutch was changed 2 years ago (4,000km ago). More is happening to me at the moment. Unfortunately there is also a small negative point, which I don’t want to hide. When I got the cadett he put light rust on the front window frame, which I have not yet fixed. Don’t worry, it is only surface rust that was treated by me with rust converter and color. is not rusted anymore since 2002!! Otherwise the cadett is stainless. The cadett is not sold to tuners or other spinners, but only to Ori. ginalos or lovers!!!! Now for the price, I think the price of 250€ is not inappropriate, since such a car with this equipment is no longer to get! Please only serious offers, is anyway hard enough!
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Preferences for stand-alone heating operation
unfortunately I still have problems with the standing heater at my omega 2,2 dti. I would be interested in which settings you prefer at the climate control unit when you program the standing heater. to “car” and set the temperature to “hi”? or other settings? thx for the answers. mfg, knockando
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Opel Rekord E 2.0S Luxury little run in good condition!
Hello, since the previous owner no longer drives for age reasons and no one wanted the car from his family. Did he ask her if she wanted the car. Since he could not bear this if the car in the garage gammelt in front of him. He wanted to give it into good hands. Before going into export or slaughter. And so it came to a well-preserved red Opel record (E2) in good stainless condition. The mileage is almost 90000 km. Last Tüv The record is very well maintained from the inside, I can’t say much about the equipment yet. Since I haven’t seen the car in real terms yet. Is the car recommended or worthy of maintenance ??? What about the consumption ? Is this a long-haul limousine ?? What do you generally think about it?? Hope someone can write something!! Because my acquaintances don’t know what to do with it yet. Greetz Stefan
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Kadett D intake bridge 1.3N for double carburettor
Hi guys, I have an Ascona B with 1.3N OHC engine, which was also installed in the D cadets. For the D cadets there was a suction bridge for this engine to be able to mount solex or possibly weaver double carburetor. I am looking for an expert report or other document for the mentioned suction bridge, such as an assembly instruction or any other information. Who can help me? A friend of mine may have the appropriate bridge but without a document or similar. cke built in ? Please help me, I’m slowly despairing of Irmscher there is no answer or sign of life. Your help should also not be for nothing… Greetings Old Town Bomber