Hello guys, about 2 weeks ago everything started… Vehicle always stank for gasoline… nothing could be found at Audi… Today I noticed that from the wheelhouse (right in front) petrol dripped… right to the friend and everything opened… Behind the cover is a black box and there drips gasoline out. The line from the tank leads in there and a line leads back to the engine… What is this box? Would have now typed on the filter but I am not sure… and how can I fix the problem? Have now for the first time clamped the black box and connected the two lines with a clamp.. direct injection is destined harmful to the engine or? is an Audi Cabrio 2.6 Bj 96
Author: 00c12f
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Warmstart Audi 80 (NG) no longer wants
Hello people! I am at the end with my sparse experiences and therefore ask for advice on my problem. It is the car of a very good acquaintance. Problem case: Audi 80 NG 5-cylinder engine – warm start. If the engine is cold starts immediately and runs round. After about 10 minutes of operation at the stand, or about 5 minutes drive is no longer possible restart. But if I close the (upper) temperature generator (2 – pole) at the engine block connection before the cooler hose briefly then jump d ie car. A change of the feeler did not bring any improvement. The ohm value decreases in the warm state. I have already found a lot from the forum and did these tests: 1.) When the engine runs I can plug off the pressure regulator and the engine runs almost normally – no death. 2.) But if I take off the engine oil cover the box also runs further. 3.) Cold start valve for test times with warm engine. But don’t jump on. 4.) At the CO screw I only want to unimpaired. The previous story: A screwdriver has changed the air filter and since then the error has been. The screwdriver is not so much knowledgeable with the thing … Another acquaintance has let his colleague run with the diagnostic device to the box and he has read the error with the temperature sensor. Unfortunately, the Latin of the screwdriver is now also at the end … Another acquaintance has given me the tip with the throttle valve. Where is this part sitting? Would you like to try his test, that I can hold the hose, which goes to the quantity distributor (?!) sometimes, because his guess goes towards the throttle valve, that it is always open…?! Would be a hit if I could get a picture info. I found a picture of the engine here: Motor greeting and thanks from the Salzburger Land Peter
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Bad news
Hello, I haven’t been here many times, but I’m a diligent reader of the forum. I bought an Audi 90 Quattro 3 weeks ago and I’ve been looking for a long time. Now I came home from work yesterday and couldn’t wait to finally drive it in the snow. As fate wants, the journey ended yesterday evening for me and my Audi, after I’ve been thrown full against a tree and stood in the middle of a field. There is no longer any rescue for my Audi. The right side skirt is now 20cm further under the car and my B-pillar has also moved. I actually never wanted to give this car back and make it right for me, but now I can probably only slaughter it and look around for a new Audi. I still put pictures in when I made some. Mfg Hobby_martin
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Questions about consumption / tank volume / cruise control
Hello together, I have more questions. First of all on the topic of consumption. Have now 12 days my Mazda 3 90th annual and wanted to ask how long it takes until a Mazda 3 has arrived and the fuel consumption settles. One says yes, that new cars always consume a little more and this improves over time. Only how long this takes seems to be quite different and therefore I wanted to ask here for experiences. 350 km down and currently a consumption of approx. 7.8 l according to the on-board computer. Would with residual width indicator and the tank indicator also get there. 80% I use the car for the work path. One distance is approx. 14 km. Mainly even driving 50 – 70 kmh (land road) and hardly any traffic lights (and without climate). There I find 7,8 l of course quite high there in the brochure 5.3 outside, 6.5 combined and 8.5 inside are indicated. In my opinion 7l would be realistic with my driving way. Rather nied with my old Fabia BJ 2007 I used up under 6 liters on the same route and combined on the complete tank filling around 7 liters. My second question is about the tank volume: When I took over the car, it was indicated on reserve and range only 0 km. The dealer told me that I could only drive to the next tank. But there I could only refuel 41 l. Everywhere it says, however, that the Mazda 3 has a 55 l tank. La ut Range indicator would speak for a 55l tank, because I can drive to the 650 km. With my Fabia 40l I always only got to the 550 km but had less fuel consumption. What’s right now???? Did the range indicator just not work at the beginning??? When does the reserve light up??? If there are still almost 15l in the tank??? And last but not least a question about the cruise: If you use this one, you can reduce the consumption or increase it??? to use only in certain situations???? So not in the city but only on longer distances??? To the info: I drive flat routes.
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Mazda jerks under load / restless idle
Hello all, I hope you can help me. It is a Mazda 323 bj 1,9 l 114 ps. The car jerks violently as it accelerates (at idle it takes the gas perfectly) and the idle is noticeably restless. Temperature independent. Half gas or full gas irrelevant. What I have done so far: -Control times checked -> i.o -Zündkabel renewed a few weeks ago and spark plugs renewed before 5 tkm (NGK) -LMM plugged off -> even worse run -Lambdasonde clamped off- >Problem continues -Clockwave sensor disconnected and in the change also the crankwave sensor->Motor goes out immediately -Higher fuel fuel fueled -> Problem persists -Switch motor from the suction bridge smooth -Contacts and plugs checked for dirt/humidity ->i.o Would anyone else have any advice or idea? I am grateful for any help.
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New Mazda 3 / Placement of the car registration plate
A question to the swarm I ordered yesterday the new Mazda 3 with the Skyaktiv-X engine. The design of the vehicle inspires me, only the fixing of the car registration mark provided by Mazda, so placed in the middle in the radiator, looks so … , um modest, look. Therefore most advertising images are of course also without plate holders. Does anyone have any solutions as and whether this can be mounted further down? Is this even possible (engine cooling) etc.)? The Mazda seller was unfortunately not so informed about this. Thank you in advance for helpful answers.
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Questions about the 55 AMG special equipment
Good day, Google can unfortunately not answer my questions sufficiently, so I turn to you in mid-March I change my current SLK against the 55 AMG, which was however already built and no configuration is possible anymore. The leasing offer was simply a corner better why I left my special wishes out of consideration. It does not include the following, which I unfortunately only saw too late : – AMG Performance suspension – AMG Performance braking system Question: How very un Does this differ from the normal AMG chassis and braking system? My last two questions: – What possibilities are there still to change at the sound volume without changing the original AMG optics? I would like to have it a bit “lauter”. – The tuner Cargraphic offers an increase in performance (control unit ), +25hp/+50NM. To what extent are such values guaranteed and above all the new car guarantee immediately extinguished? Thank you for answers, greetings from Landau
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wavy outer wall
Moin Moin. I just registered here because I have a short question for you. I would like to look at a caravan next Sunday and possibly also buy it, it is a Knaus AZUR from 1990. According to the current owner the WoWa is completely dry, dense and everything works. I have not seen the WoWa yet live. However, I noticed something with a picture, the outer skin seems to be “well”, maybe someone knows that or maybe someone knows what the l Is it possible? See photo. Greetings André
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Price 92 ́er B4 Checkbook maintained?
Hello friends, my grandpa bought an Audi 80 (B4) with 90 hp in 1992 as a new car. He always cherished it and cared for it … with a check booklet of course, as is the case with pensioners. The car has no scratches, no bumps and of course no rusting. 3 years ago he was then the last time at the TÜV, 2 years ago the last inspection (never missed one, always with the VAG partner). After that he drove home with it, put it in the garage (fully filled). In the hospital he was operated on – both legs were removed. Since then the car has not been moved (inspection as said 2 years ago, respectively 20 km) and stood in the garage. In June (or July) the car was then deregistered. He has now not quite 133,000 km on the tacho and meanwhile Grandpa has realized that it makes more sense to sell it. So I took him to the Bosch service. After a check through the screwdrivers there: new tires on it, motor oil + filter and battery changed (was defective) and had TÜV and AU (without defects) done. Car started immediately and runs well (with a red number about 20 km driven) At this point I could use your help well … what else can one demand for such a car? It really looks like out of the egg and is in impeccable condition. I would call the color dark wine red metallic (sh. picture) Does it make more sense to put it in the newspaper (near Münster/Osnabrück) or even better at Ebay? I am really grateful for your hints! Greeting Jörn (salt cake) Oh so – here’s the picture (because of color):
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winter preparation
Hello dear community I once sat down at the end of the week and made my car really winterproof. since the sweet from next year winter car should be equipped also. what do you do or should you pay attention to everything before the winter at nem 80er b4? so I have frost protection in the cool water, windscreen wiper system filled up. car battery refilled. what cost me about 10h was my underfloor. here I freed all underfloor part 1 from rust – jegleche n rust with the felx removed 2. with long-term rustproof paint painted wheel slope with rustproof paint front slope with rustproof paint rear 3. underfloor protection 3ply pinned over -on all metallic parts (wheel suspension, side skirts, wheel boxes, brake lines) 4. cavity preservation in any intervening rooms 5. all rubber seals or axle cuffs lubricated with graphite grease are otherwise any childhood diseases or similar?