Hey guys, I’m new here and the forum has helped me quite a lot already :c) One question I have however, my Audi consumes on 500 km between 0.25 and 0.5 liters of oil. I had never before a car what (measurable) oil has consumed at all. Eat this at Audi normal? When I drive the highway (about 170) the consumption is really high (about 0.4 to 200 km). Then comes up, that when it is cold uncanny nailing, that is after about 3-4 km less. Maybe you have an E PS On Friday, my Audi gets new cathedral warehouses and the right side of the track, thanks to your information from the forum, I was able to give my workshop helpful tips … really cool :c)
Author: 00c12f
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Cooling water is made of head gasket?
I just made a check-up, filled up engine oil 0.4L, refilled cooling water about 200ml and filled up disc wiper water… I saw that from the head seal apparently comes out of cooling water at one point, red traces ran down there at the engine block, not much but visible. Can that be at all that comes from the head seal cooling water? Typ89 1.8 PM Built 1990 112.000km What do you think about it? Greeting donki
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Alternator and battery
Hey guys, I drive Audi 80 2.0 E 115 hp from 1990. The question is, what amperes number has the alternator? I know, actually it should be on it but I find nothing. I have a sound system in it with power amplifier heckboxes from Hifonics Zeus and ne bass box from mac audio, and frontboxes directly on the DVD radio with display…. I also have condenser in it from HIFONICS. Only the system consumes somehow so much current that I am constantly afraid of the car I can no longer start when ic I know there is either 65 or 90 amps Lima, I have a 65 amps battery in it, but I’m still not sure. If I should have a 65 amps Lima, could I also make a larger battery in it? How much bigger? I hope you can help me. MfG
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which year of construction could the Clio be?
Hello, a friend of mine , would like to get this Clio (see picture ), although is not the best , but as a driver already ok … unfortunately the car trade is closed at the moment because of illness …. one could say at the hand of the pictures and the short info about … about which year of construction is about and whether the already the EURO2 standard ?zumind. is it a : *1.4 liter * SV * e.FH front * driver air ….. whereby in the steering wheel with the airbag logo , such a red lamp always flashes ,… probably the immobilizer ?! pictures were made with the mobile phone, therefore not so high quality, but it is possible to recognize something. Greeting N82
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Stop lights up when handbrake is tightened
Hello, I know the topic has already been discussed, but: I would like to buy a Clio 2 for the winter. I looked at one and in this case the stop lamp lights up when the hand brake is tightened, when driving or normal braking it does not light up. Can this light only occur when the hand brake is drawn? I also believe that the hand brake at the rear right does not really work, but only on the left. If this were to be done with new hand brake ropes or adjust the drum brake on the r real side done? mfg, Substances
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Renault Clio 4 R.S Trophy Phase 1 second inspection
Hello dear forum, I have the second inspection (40,000km). Unfortunately I only got the appointment in 3 weeks … I have to confess, I made the appointment also when my car pointed out to me. Now my question… I have to drive in the 3 weeks to Cologne (from Berlin) back and forth about 1,000km.. That means I will thus exceed the kilometers number in a maximum of 3,000km, so instead of 40,000km = 43,000km… is that bad for the engine? The car is not a Leasing vehicle i.e. with renault I do not get any problems! It is only about possible damage to the engine … the service of Renault could not answer the question. Hopefully you can help me Greet Fromlo
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Balancing and changing wheels – the disadvantages of all-year tires ?
Hello. I’ve already been busy with SuFu, I’ve read about pros and cons and I haven’t seen them. Many things would even speak in my region for all-year-round tyres, because winters are no longer as severe as Anno Tuck. Okay, now you read the views of a layman, who has caught it at some point, be gracious. Even GJR have to be replaced on the axles and then balanced, because the fall of the opposite axles differs, the tires on the axles. If this is true, not only would there be additional costs due to balancing, no, I would also have to have them changed, even if only once a year, instead of seasonal winter AND summer tires twice. But that is interesting, and maybe this is also different from car to car, every time I have my tyres changed on the axle, they have never been groomed before. s for unnecessary or they place the decision exclusively in customer hands, no idea. By the way, I am a short stretcher and come just once on average to 7,500 km per year. When should you change GJR at this mileage axle side and is the balancing basically appropriate, or does it depend exclusively on whether you feel vibrations in the steering wheel or not? Greeting
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Everyday tires – Federally suitable?
Here in the forum there are both good experiences and horror scenarios with the 595 Evo. I myself have been driving the 595 Evo since 07/2016 and ~12,000km on my summer car and can’t complain at all, at least on a dry road. Now there is a tyre change for my everyday car – in the dimensions 215/40R18. Federal has produced a new tire, the Evoluzion ST-1, which even has a release for 8.5J rims. Tires already experience, though no long-term experience? Has Federal improved? What alternatives are there with 8.5J clearance? Price per tire should be less than 100€. Greetings, Thomas
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Runflat tires loss of comfort?
Good day, I have so far moved my E90 LCI in winter with 17-tire. Was very comfortable and pleasant. After that I drove a short time as a summer tire 2 months ago 19-tire, was clearly harder. Then I wanted the golden center, 19-tire sold, 18-tire bought, BUT for the first time rims with RFT tires. Already when I bought these very hard felt to me, also very hard. When I mounted them, I could hardly believe it was all so hard, incredible. The car is rock hard, so that I on believe dampers or similar are defective, it is completely uncomfortable, and it runs track grooves extremely after, sometimes it just steers on its own in one direction, if I don’t hold the steering wheel (I didn’t have before). (driving profile: 80% city, on the AB you don’t notice it so extreme, but in the city with all the channel covers etc. already extreme) Now my questions: has someone already had similar experiences, that it differs so much? Opinion question: The tires are bridge stone Potenza RFT, DOT 16 or 17, profile around about 5mm still, would you still drive them and as soon as they have left only then buy new non RFT? or would you already do it now and the tires that are actually still usable replaced by non RFT? Your opinion and experience on this would be very interesting to me. Thank you very much.
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Track broadening – wheel nut too long or too wide
Hello, today I wanted to install a set of track plates from Eibach (16 mm per side, 32 mm per axle), the variant for screwing with separate wheel nuts. Rims are standard. However, the mounting now fails due to the supplied Eibach wheel nuts M12x1.5×18.5 in SW17 KG60°, because these look too far out or are too wide with SW 17 or the casting pockets of the OEM rims are too narrow. I think the too narrow casting bags are decisive. On the side of the nut to the edge of the bag, so that the rim can not fit plan. How can I get this solved now? The TÜV report says for mounting: M12x1.5 with minimum 6.5 revolutions are to be used. No word about the length/height of the wheel nuts. Could I simply use M12x1.5×16.5 in SW17? Would now be 2 mm flatter, but there would be only H&R. Also here there would be flatter up to M12x1.5×15. Or is there no longer the strength due to missing thread length? https://www.rad screwen-shop.de/…/M12x15 20 mm Track widening will not fit without bodywork and I don’t want to file on the supplied wheel nuts or rim.