Hey guys, I’m unfortunately finished with my Latin. I’ve been a proud owner of a MX-5 of the 2nd generation for about a year and love it very much. However, with the age of course come some problems that you can always get solved in Google. Nevertheless, I have to create a topic now because unfortunately I find nothing to do with it. My little MX5 has always had start problems in damp weather, which fortunately solved by cleaning the throttle flap and a new petrol filter However, it runs the first 10 kilometers very rough and without any power. It also often starts rolling after 3-4 seconds. Spark plugs everything is new, so I thought that I would just do a compression test to put the problem on the pellet. Said done and problem recognized immediately. So if the engine warms up after 20 min or 30 min service life after longer driving, the cylinders have the following bar values: Cylinder 1: 6 Bar cylinder 2: 11 Bar cylinder 3: 12 Bar Cylinder 4: 10,5 Bar Now my first thought was piston rings on the 1 through however, if you measure it directly after the ride the values are very normal: Cylinder 1:11 Bar Cylinder 2:11 Bar Cylinder 3:12,1 Bar Cylinder 4:11,1 Bar So was measured once again with completely cold engine that stood overnight. There were the values so deep that it is a miracle that it still starts. All cylinders were at 4 Bar except the 1st this was at 2,5 Bar. I have also already tested a swallow OIL to tilt into the combustion chamber and thus the cylinder 1 comes to 8 bar with lukewarm engine. The others are unchanged. I guess it’s probably the piston rings, however, I’m surprised that the values are so perfect when it starts running for a while. Does anyone know what I can still do at this point without taking the engine apart? Every tip would be helpful and thank you in advance!
Author: 00c12f
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Mazda MX 5 NB or NC
Hi, would like to get my first car and came across the Mazda MX 5. I have a budget of about 700€, but don’t have to be completely used up ;D. I am now standing between the NB (110ps, 2003, 100k kilometers, 450€) and the NC (128ps, 2006, 70k kilometers, 700€). Both vehicles have almost identical equipment, nothing special. I have not looked at both vehicles yet, with my question now both of good condition (no rust etc.) and new tuv. Would you put the extra money on the NC or does the NB have its advantages? I would use the car for daily use, but also for exits into the Odenwald. In addition, I ask myself the question whether the PS number is sufficient or if you prefer to buy the larger engines. I am not a racing driver now but the driving fun should not be too short I would be very happy about an answer. VG Felix
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MX-5 NA gets hot
Tach colleagues, maybe you have an idea: Drive a 91 MX-5, which is eventually terribly overheated. Workshop tapped on cooler lids, because the cooler was empty and the collection tank was full. Ok, swap was the easiest exercise. Now, however, the engine was increasingly bluish, so the suspicion arose that the engine had just noticed one. From a reliable source I got a new old engine (including water pump) and had it installed. The subsequent joy was 10 Then maybe the thermostat! Mazda delivered promptly and the part was replaced. 5 km everything went well, then again the same problem. An expert typed on a clogged cooler. So cooler rinsed until the water was clear, filled up and 30 min. ventilated with stationary gas. Then 5 km drove and the temperature indicator marched straight to the right again. Now also the expert scratched his head. After ventilated, 5 km drove and… you guessed e The fan motor starts reliably and I think that everything has changed now except for the cooler. But if it was tight, the engine would also have to get hot when venting. Or do I make a mistake of thinking? Thanks already for your ideas!
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Sorry, once again the topic of oil
We have an NC 1.8 built in 2006. Wants to make oil change now and am not sure which I should take. 5w30 or 5w50…. An acquaintance has a car accessories store and said the 5w50 would be too thick liquid…. Car is only driven in summer and my wife drives normally…. Thanks for your help….
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Suddenly *place* and now white smoke
Hello! The NC 2006 consumes 1L oil on 100km. Since the owner did not check oil, I found in Dec that exactly 3,0 liters of oil were missing and he drove around like this. Before 3000 km I looked oil and there was everything i.e. about 1L/100k. I then filled 3L oil. Until today then did not move. I changed the thermostat today and the throttle valve brightly cleaned with corresponding throttle valve cleaner. I also after the throttle valve Rich I then put a funnel into the balance tank and sealed the opening with bitumen and filled the funnel fully (to ventilate). The one tube connected to the eel is not supplied with cooling water due to the bitumen. So I then left you air bubbles out of the funnel for 3 minutes (of which there is a lot of Then I went into the car and held on to 2,000 and then later on to 3,000 15 seconds. I could still detect a lot of air bubbles. At 3,000 it suddenly made “blupp” the engine ran rounder, and suddenly all white smoke came from behind, which smelled burned. I then got out of the engine turned off and could detect two distinct oil carbon strips at both end pipes drained of the asphalt floor. At the same time, the cooling water in the direction is switched off. it sank, even to MIN, (before it was filled almost full to the funnel.) I have now filled up on Max. Oil level also. Do not dare to start me any more, since now more and more water could get into the combustion chamber.
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Chassis & Rims – TÜV Hessen
Hello guys, I wanted to get some opinions or advice from you. I ordered a KW coilover suspension for my vehicle at a KW base room FFM including installation. At the same time I ordered new OZ rims (in normal dimensions) for my vehicle. For both of these there is obviously a part inspection available. Since the installation had delayed by 3 weeks, I had already mounted the rims and then drove with them and asked them to do so. At the same time, please register with the TÜV at the same time, so to speak in a wash-up and to save double TÜV fees. Since in the workshop the face was already distorted and the end of the song was that I had to fetch the original summer bikes, because the KW report could only be examined with original wheels according to §19, otherwise after $21 and then I would have to lay 300-400€ for a full acceptance according to the statement from the workshop. Also a TÜV’ The original rims were then not a problem and the chassis is now registered. Then the workshop has passed to the main TÜV-Stelle in Frankfurt am Main to have my OZ rims registered. There the TÜV would have made the statement that driving tests had to be carried out with my vehicle, I would have to leave the vehicle there 2-3 days and expect about 800€! If the standard was to be found in the workshop, I would have to leave the vehicle there for 2-3 days and expect about 800€. al? For the chassis as well as the rims there is a part report from the manufacturer, but of course these refer to standard condition, and are not valid in combination. But I assume that this applies to all part reports that exist for rims and suspensions. Can’t anyone tell me that it is common practice to carry out extra driving tests. For 800€ would hardly let anyone do that? Would be really grateful for some advice 😉 Greeting Chris
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Buy GT – yes or no?
Looking for people who have had experiences with Opel GT. I would like to get one, but since I don’t know about cars – i.e. besides the usual little things I can’t do anything myself or even repair – would I like to know if there are any problems? And above all: how does he drive himself in winter? A car salesman said he doesn’t have a rear drive, but 50/50, and it wouldn’t be a problem if you took the smallest winter tires that fit the car. I’m going from the Westerwald to the Taunus. Thank you for your advice!
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Dependence of the rolling comfort etc. on the load index of the tyre ?
Is there a dependence of the rolling comfort on the load index(LI) of a tyre (with the same tyre size and identical. Air pressure/gas pressure)? I assume that the RF tyres (tires with higher LI) have more stable flanks and more stable belt/running surface(?) . From this one might conclude that the tyres with the lower LI should offer lighter springs and thus a better rolling comfort. Is there a general connection? Are the tyres with the lower Li also lighter? If they are lighter and better “springs” should also the rolling resistance and the fuel consumption be lower (?) . If the tire with the lower Li consumes less energy , this remains e.g. with a longer motorway ride also cooler than the tire with the higher LI ? Does the tires with the higher LI give more stability when cornering at the border of adhesion ? Can the tire with higher LI with slightly lower air pressure / gas pressure be driven than in the R. with lower LI and d Amit the rolling comfort almost equal in comparison to the tyre with lower LI ? (the legal requirements to the LI and axle load as well as the percentage decrease of the Li from a best. Speed are known to me.)
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Porous tyres (risse in the tread) for 3 years old tyres (responsibility of the seller?)
Hello, with a couple of my 3 year old summer tires, (Dunlop) which were already mounted when buying the car, at the beginning of July this year, they discovered cracks on the tread when changing tyres (i.e. in the profile). The car master advised me not to have these two tires reassembled in the summer, for safety reasons. The cracks were clearly visible. In the worst case they could lead to a tyre pitcher at high speeds. I contacted my Verk affluent/retailer (another dealer, about 1.5 hours drive away) where I bought the car. He refused any replacement. He would accept no costs. I should contact the tyre manufacturer, who should check it. My question: Can the seller so simply reject any responsibility? I trust that the seller checks the tyres carefully at the vehicle check and does not install any defective or defective tyres or load them on the vehicle. t. Is in such a case really exclusively the tyre manufacturer my contact person? How is it with the burden of proof? Is there a special regulation for tires that allows the seller to withdraw himself from the responsibility? Maybe one of you has already experienced something similar or may give me some information about it. For helpful answers I would be grateful. Greetings
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Opel Calibra 2.0 4×4 16V and 204 PS tuning etc..?
Hello first of all, I’m new here and have already informed myself a little about the topics around the calibra. Of course I don’t know if I have the right to open a new forum. My concerns or/or questions: I want to buy a Calibra as described above very soon. My questions to you are: How much horsepower can I bring it? How much harm can I do to the engine? What can I do at all? What do you recommend to me with the engine, turbo, exhaust etc. turn/improve, or buy? And at the end a somewhat stupid question, the tachometer at the dashboard, does it go up to 260 or up to 280? In the Internet/youtube there are always other tachos shown. So if you can help me that would be very great. Thanks already in advance.