MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • Wrong running direction WR

    hi, short history: I drive a mini cooper cabrio r52. I bought and had the winter tires mounted on original mini wheels at bmw. already in the first year I was surprised that I could not drive up a not cleared bigger climb with new winter tires. last year I was made aware that 2 matures are incorrectly mounted. I always change the matures myself, but go very carefully ahead and I am sure that the error lies with bmw! the matures have between 10,000-15,000 km now down, are 4 years old but still have decent profile! what do you advise? here is always written you should only mount them properly. or should I prefer to raise new ones?

  • I’d rather spend a little more money.

    I would like to warn other road users!!! To my situation: I bought new winter tyres of the brand Hankook. A day or approx. 600 km later I had to carry out an emergency braking. I own an older car which does not yet have ABS or other things and does not even weigh a ton. The tyres now have a brake plate. With a brake track of approx. 10-15 meters braked from 80 to 20 km/h) the wear of max. 5,90 mm was available. I tried over the manufacturer or the My conclusion: Never again tires from the manufacturer Hankook! They are not of high quality and in the ADAC test completely overrated! There is highest danger for life and limb if you use these tires. Because if I imagine that this can happen to me also at 140 km/h becomes murky to me. Of course now some say I would have to blame myself but 1. I follow the traffic rules and 2. ha In my 5 years as an accident-free driver, I would have often not harmed the other tires with such or more severe emergency braking. So my well-meaning tip: Don’t buy cheap Asia shit from Hankook!!!

  • Audi 80 b3 1.6 51KW empty run unround, engine shuts down

    Hello, have an Audi 80 b3 1.6 with 51kw. My problem is the following. The empty run is especially cold shortly after the start very bad (runs on 2-3 cylinders). The problem is not always the same extreme, but usually it goes out if you don’t keep it at mood. With a bit of gas it runs constantly on 3 cylinders. The 4th then comes up at some point. When giving gas and going from driving he jerks strongly. in thrust mode at lower speeds (under 2000) he jerks aúc h. It also sometimes goes out when uncoupled. no matter whether warm or cold. Also warm it sounds like in the empty run, as if sometimes it would not ignite a cylinder for a short time. I have already searched in the search and found only one topic in which similar problems were described. There was the problem of the Zynddistributor. It can’t be that with me. Just changed ignition distributors, ignition cables and spark plugs. Unfortunately unchanged. I noticed however that the spark plugs n are very black (see picture). Would point to a too fat mixture, wouldn’t it? Carburettor I think should be a 2E-E. Thank you very much! Lg Malte

  • Tyre profile Bridgestone Potenza RE050A

    Tach, I actually got these tires from my regular forum due to some tyre tests and tips. After 15000 km the profile has changed so much that I have to ask myself if the tests were only done on new tyres and how the vehicle retention (especially in wet weather) changed after 20-30000 km … For illustration times 2 pictures – original and after 15000 km mileage. 1: Here is the not even more 0.5mm profile to the longitudinal groove 2: The longitudinal groove has a good 3 mm less low e as the 3 neighbors 3: Here there is no profile at all 4: the profile has just 0.5 to 1 mm in the middle and takes off to the left longitudinal groove Maybe one of you who can explain it to me … already THANK YOU! EDIT: Have the picture pendants entangled

  • Used Alu rim definition “use traces”

    Hello together, I have a question about signs of wear. I had used ALU rims at an online auction house 2 (were offered in each auction), because my wife had at some point taken a blow into a rim. Since the rim is supposed to cost about 300 euros, it was obvious to look for a used rim. The rim was offered with traces of use and light curb scratchers. Furthermore it was written that all rims (he had to This time 3 rims run in 3 individual auctions, all with the same text.) would have the same condition. In addition, he wrote in that it is a private sale, and the goods cannot be taken back. In addition, there was a photo, on which a clean rim was recognizable. The 2 rims arrived at me. Packaging was fine and undamaged. When unpacked the first surprise. Completely dirty, as if they were lying around unpacked for a while. After the pure I discovered on a rim a blow (delle) on the outer shoulder, which then arises when you drive very quickly over a curb edge (or similar obstacles). I think that this rim no longer needs to be mounted, which is to assume that the rim may break under load. Now I wanted to return the rim (so rewind it), since I think that such a blow has nothing to do with “normal traces of use”. In addition, I wanted to give back the rim (so rewind it) because I think that such a blow has nothing to do with “normal traces of use”. he is not mentioned in the auction text. So he actually sold me a rim which has nothing in common with the rim offered in the auction. The carcass now stands up and refers to the excluded withdrawal…. To this he says, I could have asked if the rim was in order. At the auction house there is a pass that one can return an auction if goods and description do not agree, although the sales have excluded this. Daz u still stands, that one has to accept with used goods a condition which corresponds to a normal use. So quite simply the question : is a blow in an aluminium rim with visible deformation a “normal traces of use” Thanks already in advance for your answers. Greeting roland

  • Start with squeaking tires

    Hello, I know that’s not the right offtopic now, but I didn’t know where else to put it… So my question: Can you switch to “D” to start with squeaking tires without thinking (I’m talking about the gearbox, not about the mature ones) with an automatic on the selector lever position “N” and just switch to “D”?

  • Wheel Question CLK 320 W208 11/98

    Hello people, ride at the moment special car bike 7.5Jx16H2 ET35 type DC 756 manufacturer Rial, with down to 205/55/R16 winter ice. Would like to ride next summer on the or another 7.5 x 16″ rim down to 225/50/16″ tires, so that a change of the tires from rear to front is possible. However, in the annex report these combinations are not provided, see excerpt report below table. Why does the cross section of the tire on the rear axle change at all? This changes the total cross-section in comparison tires front axle vs tyres rear axle? Don’t I understand, please help! front axle rear axle No. 1 185/50R16 205/45R16 No. 2 195/40R16 215/35R16 No. 3 195/45R16 215/40R16, 225/40R16 No. 4 195/50R16 205/45R16 No. 5 205/45R16 225/40R16 No. 6 205/50R16 225/45R16 No. 7 205/55R16 225/50R16, 245/45R16 No. 8 205/60R16 225/55R16 No. 9 215/40R16 225/40R16, 245/35R16 No.10 215/50R16 245/45R16 No.11 215/55R16 235/50R16 No.12 225/40R16 245/35R16, 255/35R16 No.13 225/50R16 245/45R16 No.14 225/55R16 245/50R16 No.15 225/60R16 245/55R16 looks the same for other reports on the subject: special car bike 7.5Jx16H2 type MAM2-7516 manufacturer Mays GmbH *see here* Interest me for these tyres *KLICK* are indeed ZR tyres but look great from the profile. alternatively there would be *KLICK* or here *KLICK* the latter but rather less.

  • All-weather tyre consultation required

    Hi, I’m in this forum for the first time today and I’m looking for advice on all-weather tyres on this way (but unfortunately I haven’t found the right one here). Since I have currently mounted the summer tyres, but I have to replace both rear wheels for the winter tyres, I have finally enough of constantly changing the tire sets! Therefore I want to get a good set of all-weather tyres and would be grateful for opinions and/or tips! My background : I drive a Golf IV, 2002 BJ, 75 HP, current tyres are a set of summer and winter tyres (alu- or steel rims). In the vehicle license it says: 195/65R15 91T. I drive 90% in a big city without big height differences daily to work, but can also work (i.e. if it snows properly) from home or on bus/train, so I do not depend on the car. Which tyres are recommended? What would you advise me to do in general with an all-weather set? I’ve already Googled something and found out that the “M+S” identifier as well as the snowflake symbol should be important. The legal situation seems to be unclear or very stretchy in the event of an accident in winter with all-weather tires — or am I wrong? Which online shops are serious about tyre orders? Questions about questions … 🙂 Greetings!

  • Mercedes B summer tyres

    Hello everyone. Since 2008 I have a Mercedes B (with sports package and 215/45 R17 tyres), driving little, mostly city. In December, at mileage 11000 (!!) the tyre dealer (with whom I buy winter tyres) explains to me that my summer front tyres (ex-factory) have driven completely and absolutely have to be replaced. Couldn’t believe it, but I’m sure he didn’t just want to turn on new tyres. Already now that Mercedes will tell me that the wear is normal u And I’m not sure yet if I’m going to fight for it. I’m looking for a summer tire now and I don’t know which one to choose (tire tests are usually not available for the corresponding size). Safety and less wear (!!) are more important to me than price (although it’s not important). Can anyone recommend something to me? I don’t know if I need Runflat tyres (have a spare wheel). I don’t know if I can or should change to another tyre size ( but probably I would have to replace the other two summer tires as well), but if someone has an opinion about it, I would be happy to hear about it. Thank you!!!

  • Audi 100 C3 3-stage automatic noise in the 2nd gear

    Hello! The data from my car: Audi 100 C3 Limusine Built 01/1986 101KW/137PS 5-cylinder, 2226 cc Mutor letter: KU (no KAT, K-Jetronic) The automatic transmission worries me. Years ago, I actually heard the sound for the first time, and that’s when I switched up to the 2nd gear. I would say that one hears such a metallic “rubbing” as if something slipped. Not very loud, but it sounds bad, comparable to a broken bearing or something like that. it is also heard manchaml, when you are driving underboard in the second stage and then there is no kickdown gas. You never hear it at full throttle, so when it switches from the first to the second stage it is nothing. Or when you kick down from the 3rd to the 2nd (overtake) is nothing. My first suspicion was that the brake bands are emptied out and slip through. But what I don’t think speaks of it: 1. If you hear slipping brake bands, you would have to hear them during every switching process. n. 2. If they slip at low speeds, they would have to do it at full throttle, because the torque is higher. Oh yes, that’s a change gear and doesn’t even have 150,000 km on it. Does anyone have something like that already, or at least an idea what that could be? If it’s the brake belts, someone has a guide on how to change it? And where do you get it?