MOTOR-TALK

Author: 00c12f

  • Kia ceed _sw Edition 7 Start/Stop Manual

    Hello dear community, am owner of a new Kia ceed. It is an EU car. As of January 2013 in stock, approval in October 2013. Unfortunately have the user manual only in Dutch. Would be overjoyed to get a PDF file (perhaps via PN). Is this file even on the net? Can anyone help me?? Have also a problem with the start/stop automatic. Display always shows “Disabled” and if I press the switch, the message “Off” appears. twas read here, can be due to the temperatures, so too cold or to the battery. For this someone else an idea?

  • W123 – Avoid carburetor engines?

    Hello Mercedes municipality, for a few years I already look for a W123. From the thought of a fine weather car my attention has changed now to a Daily Driver. I would drive with the vehicle every day about 50 KM, in every season and weather, country road. I do not need much luxury, the base must be right, even a 200 D would be ok for me because it is a pure pendulum vehicle. But now the decisive point: carburetor vs. injector. I always wanted only injector I had favored a 230 E. Unfortunately, the market is still very empty as far as the 230er is concerned, which is why I look more and more often after 200er (109 HP version). I have learned from an acquaintance, however, that the carburettor engines are an ever greater problem because in many workshops there are no staff anymore that knows how to deal with them and gets the right settings. In my case, this would be impossible in principle, but what does it look like in a very hot or very cold climate, can the carburetor have that? Are injectors basically more reliable? Would you have a motor suggestion for me that is suitable for these challenges apart from this question? My criteria: _Limousine (no T/C) _1980–1985 _Schied roof _ZV _Servo _no velour _if possible still under 200 TKM (no need if condition is good) _Color: preferably silver/dunk elblau _Price: as long as the condition is good for now no price restriction

  • Steering gear shift out, only 3rd and 4th gear available! Cooler water loss if engine was

    Hello together! I’ve been my first classic car for over 3 weeks now. I’m very satisfied and a good oldtimer opinion has also come to pass. Last week the steering wheel shift has become loose during the ride, the position of the gears has shifted. Only 3rd and 4th gear is to be found. Have gears removed, checked, greased and reinstalled, but no success. Does anyone have experience and tips for me? What did not happen during the test drive, although s After the registration I did my first, slightly longer tour to Venlo (Holland). During the trip there was a hissing from time to time in the cockpit, in the area of the car radio to hear. Noticed that in the heating area cooler water runs down and lands on the exhaust. After 200 kilometers approx. 3.5 liters water loss. Fortunately everything went well! How can I get to the cause and where do I have to unscrew ??? Thank you in advance ! Sincerely Cetin

  • Questions about Questions W123 240D Ambulance

    Hallihallo, Bin since yesterday proud owner of a w123 240D ambulance (Binz build up) built in 1985 now a few questions that you can hopefully answer to me. 1. Is it normal that you can only feel two switching operations with the automatic transmission? Have heard different opinions and read that the car drives on D in the second gear… 2.When I turn the key, the engine stays on. Only when I lock the steering wheel lock, it goes out… has what with the ignition lock to do ? 3. Do I have the opportunity to get a good 300 diesel engine cheaply, is the conversion in terms of performance worth? Am myself a car mechatronics engineer, working hours I would not have to pay… 4. If I operate the warning flashing system, both arrows in the instrument cluster light permanently… could the aic h just be the switch ? That would be it first, am definitely curious Dear greetings from Berlin, Joe

  • There suffering 2.3 NG problem

    Hello, I’ve been here for a long time but I’ve always only gelsen and helped me as far as possible! Now I need help with my 2.3 convertible with NG! I’ve tried everything to do with this car but I don’t find the right mistake! To the course! Cold start problem and speed loss after uncoupling! Everything renewed from probes to pipes as well as false air tested! I’m a lot on the screws but I can’t get any further! Error code is 2132 but Lambda works normally at all I hope that one of you already had this error and has fixed it! Not how many people say” I’ve got it too” It would be really nice ! Greetings Lars

  • Space Star 1.6 2002 – Purchase advice / Watch out for what?

    Hi, Since my Volvo C70 Coupé with 250tkm and inc. has to remove too many electronic defects, I was offered in exchange a Mitsubishi Space Star 1.6 “25”. The minivan is also without preparation really still tip-top and clean there, inside and outside almost like new (except slightly balanced plastic headlights). It is the pre-facelift model with EZ 2002, from first possession, SH-maintained, 1.6l suction cup with 98hp, switch, “25” special equipment, TÜV comes new. Since I hardly know the car, except that it is built on the Volvo S40 / Carisma and was assembled at the NedCar (ex-Daf / Volvo) plant in the Netherlands, I would like to ask a few questions: – Reliability: 218tkm seems to be a lot of wood. What about the reliability of various components in this mileage? Vulnerable components (axes, electronics, brakes)? Durability of the coupling in mixed operation? – Engine: It is not GDI (fortunately). But: I plan the car if it turns out to be good to upgrade to LPG (my Volvo has been running on car gas for 5 years, you save huge!) Are the 1.6 engines gas-compatible? Hydro valves / good valve seat rings, or already the new-fashioned, non-LPG capable Sparkram with recreating cup plungers and relatively soft seat rings, as with many Japanese? Thanks for tips and to the Space Star!

  • Space Star SRS lamp lights – Airbag Error memory cannot be deleted

    Hello, with my Space Star 1.8 GDI Built. 2000 the SRS lamp has been lit for a long time. Was already in the workshop and there was an error stored in the airbag control unit, however, it could not be deleted. Had last year due to defective alternator overvoltage and therefore suspect that the STG is defective. Or would it not be possible to read out the error memory if it was defective due to overvoltage? Would you also like to see a circuit diagram from the airbag so that I can also see the Lei MfG edition-driver

  • Lancer IV no longer starts or control unit MD153010 searched

    Moin, My car: 2/2.1: 7107 3/2.2: 462 MITSUBISHI LANCER IV (C6_A, C7_A) 1.5 12V (C62A petrol) from 05-1989 to 05-1992 Kilometer: approx. 217.000 Problem: Everything went as always. Shopping, vehicle stands for 45 minutes. After that it no longer starts, First thoughts: 1. Orgelt still, battery still enough juice, 2. crankshaft turns, probably not mechanical (hopefully 3. ignition lines held to mass, no ignition spark on all candles, 4. voltage on the ignition distributor –> Vll. Ignition distributor ? Best Here in the forum: 1. Have many probably had the problem, either ignition distributor or engine control unit, old Mitsubishi dealer told me on the phone, that are the two problems with the Lancer from the years and so slowly make all the ECUs sluggish. 2. MS removed, opened (see pictures), capacitors look quite good, but was obviously already someone before me, especially R102 (misses complete ?) and R 122 don’t look like ex factory. –> So I need a new ECU ? car utilizations called about 20 pieces, Japan parts (Hamburg) called, nobody has a used one. On the net I find the for EUR 200,00 or can send to ECU or approx. EUR 190,00. My question: does someone have a tip, missing the R 102 (purchase and soldering) or should I buy a ECU, does vill. even someone have one on offer? Thank you for attention and if necessary help/tips.

  • Lancer 1.6. New car

    Hello in the round, I am looking for a replacement car (second car) for our aged golf. My wife would like the Mitsubishi Lancer quite well. When browsing in Mobile I noticed that many new cars or day registrations are still offered. The vehicles are almost all identically equipped. The prices for a new car seem very attractive to me. Thus we have discovered a black sportback for 13.990,– €. Oh yes, it is supposed to be a sportsback, if possible in be black. Of course, equipment wonders are not. The offered vehicles all have the 1.6. ́ engine with 117 hp and Euro 6. What do you think about these offers? Unfortunately, I have no experience with Japanese cars at all, especially Mitsubishi, in terms of reliability, consumption and workshop costs.

  • Is that normal?

    My name is Christine and I bought a Kia Rio year 11/2004 in November 2013. The car has now run almost 70,000 km, got a large inspection when buying and the timing belt has been changed. From the inside and outside it looks like from the sales room of the Kia dealer. Whether this, however, employs besides good sellers also qualified mechanics, I dare doubt. Because somehow w my problem with the Rio always with the words `That’s normal, don’t worry. I am blonde, but soooo blond now also not! Here’s my problem: As soon as I step up the clutch the speed increases by 200 to 300 revolutions. If the engine is cold it can also be 500 revolutions. My father says, `the engine gives intermediate gas`. I don’t know what that is? But must probably be a relic from the beginnings of the automotive industry. It is unusual for me that I can drive with the Rio without giving any gas. I just have to kick the clutch, insert the gear, let the clutch come back, and it starts without having to step on the accelerator pedal once. In the fifth gear it purrs through the area at 45 km/h and can’t be impressed even by slight climbs. The speed remains constant at approx. 1100 revolutions. If I then switch to idle and the car still rolls, stay t the speed also at approx. 1100. Only when I stop and the car stands the speed decreases to approx. 700 revolutions. Is this really normal?